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neotko

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Posts posted by neotko

  1. Can anybody confirm EXACTLY the model number of the motor used in there Bond Tech? Please

    I assume that these motors have a smaller angle compared to the original um2?

    Also if you went the um2+ , would you need to swap out the motor?

    @bondtech now has an upgrade for um2+ feeders and um3 that reuses the motor and has a shape more UM in black. Looks very interesting and should work great (also you save some bucks)

    About the motor maybe they can share the specs since I don’t know on what box I have mine

    I see you made a geared extruder on Thingiverse, I assume the BindTech performs better?

    Indeed I did a @meduza version. But after that I moved to a FatIRobertI feeder that uses the cheap bondtech parts (to save cash while using it on 3 printers) and now all my orinters use Gudo & Me ZGE direct drive with bondtech for awesome precision and sweet flexibes or practically anything.

  2. Can anybody confirm EXACTLY the model number of the motor used in there Bond Tech? Please

    I assume that these motors have a smaller angle compared to the original um2?

    Also if you went the um2+ , would you need to swap out the motor?

    @bondtech now has an upgrade for um2+ feeders and um3 that reuses the motor and has a shape more UM in black. Looks very interesting and should work great (also you save some bucks)

    About the motor maybe they can share the specs since I don’t know on what box I have mine

  3. the Bondtech has much more torque that the UM feeder because of the gear box. my only slight criticism is when an object has huge amounts of retractions the motor can get hot - so I have mounted several heat sinks on the motor to help get rid of it - works for me

    do you mean the UM2 original feeder? or the upgraded?

    If you want something that doesn’t surprise and works under heavy and normal use go for bondtech. All the others mk7-mk8-umbolt are half as good as moving the filament with precision. Ofc um optimized cura for their feeder, but that’s software path. I put my money on good hardware over fixes.

    • Like 1
  4.  

    Well that's a bit silly forcing a Material-ID to just print. What use does the material change on the printer then? Silly stuff think there. Ofc yea Ultimaker is a eco-system, but this stuff only helps Cura, not the users. Griffin should be named Slyther.

     

    It forces any id. Just like it forces that there should be actual g-codes in there. It needs those (especially for Cura Connect) to be able to figure out if it can be printed at all. This doesn't seem like that big of a deal if you always print whatever you slice right away, but with a queue (and especially with different configurations in your cluster) this suddenly becomes a thing.

    So why do you always have to assume malice?

     

    Well I'm a bad bad boy hahahaha

    Dunno probably I didn't had coffee when I wrote that. Why a cluster is a problem for a material header check? I mean, if you launch it from cura, not cura connect, why the material is a gcode integrity check? After all, worst thing that can happen is the printer asking for confirmation for correct material. Wouldn't it be easier to design a Blank Material for example? One that could be used for any slicer other than Cura. Now that I think it out loud, that could be a nice feature. A 'Blank' material profile, one that can be used for 'other slicers'.

  5. I sometimes use S3D generated gcode for the UM3 (with success). The crucial change is that the 4.x firmware (for Cura Connect) makes the material-id in the gcode header mandatory. S3D is not able to generate this automatically (AFAIK) but it's very easy to add it to the existing postprocessing script.

    The easiest way would be to "steal" these (one or two) lines from the Cura generated file.

    On the other hand: i never noticed significant differences between prints from Cura and S3D. I can't follow your statement about "very bad print quality because it's Cura". It's indeed a "print and go" in my case. Can you explain the issues that you have with Cura prints? Do you have pictures for comparison between prints that are prepared by S3D vs. the same print prepared by Cura? And did you use the standard settings in both cases or what is different?

    Well that's a bit silly forcing a Material-ID to just print. What use does the material change on the printer then? Silly stuff think there. Ofc yea Ultimaker is a eco-system, but this stuff only helps Cura, not the users. Griffin should be named Slyther.

  6. Nope, s3d doesn't generate the right g-code flavour. We have to look at those to decide where the g-code needs to go.

    The header can be 'faked' very easily. Ofc if Cura does new checks then it might not pass. Long ago when I had a um3 I did use their app to send gcodes, ofc it has a MB limit, but it did work. Did you guys increase the header security so only 'Cura-ted' files pass through?

    • Like 1
  7. I think what's happening here is that the firmware is trying to prevent you from pushing cold filament through a nozzle; the firmware does not know you don't have a hotend to go with the extruder motor.

    I think there's a gcode command to lower the minimum nozzle temperature at which the extruder motor will try to extrude. You could put that in your start gcode.

    That should be M302... I will try

    Update:

    Tried and it started printing without heating nozzle and tried to extrude the filament with first extruder. 2nd one didn't work...

    Do the M302 after the tool change

  8. Sure @lordhell, (are you Eduardo?)

    VIDRAK VISORES DE VIDRO INDUSTRIAIS

    email: vendas@vidrak.com.br

    I order one Nextrema last week, it's camming :)

    Looks like Nextrema is more quimical resistence them Robax, but I don't know if we have some advantage for this. It can handle up to 950°C thermal resistence and shock resistance of 700-820°C. Nextrema transparency also alows for some inovating infrared heating functionalities :D

    Schott Brazil tell me that they import a full-size glass, so they can't garantee this 0.3% of diagonal (for under 300mm size) because the glass plate is much bigger and can be cutted on diferent areas (?). But It should be much better than others glasses as mentioned here.

    That’s the kind of high precision glass Misumi sells for ALOT of $. Was one of my first choices but also thought that was a bit expensive. If has good/normal adhesion please tell/share your findings. How much they charged you for it?

    For reference misumi glass

    https://us.misumi-ec.com/pdf/fa/2012/p2_0927.pdf

  9. Try to increase the ironing/neosanding to at least 20% MORE of the real print speed. Cura dev team left it at 20mm/s and that indeed allows the filament to drip and more importantly it overheats the print area making overhangs and weak parts suffer. Unhidde all options and speed it up. Read my post about why/how it works and then you can get the whole picture. Google neosanding ultimaker

  10. I did a mistake with an abrasive filament.

    It is possible to change the nozzle ?

    It is now, or in the future, 0.4 nozzle as spare part for UM3 ?

    For UM3 Cores changing the nozzle could be possible but noone makes nozzles that could fit. The problem is that um3 cores are designed as stuff you toss away if fails, you know like a cartridge. Why can’t you swap the nozzle? Well, you would need to heat it, use tools, and be careful with many parts. Also the biggest issue is that noone makes nozzles for it. Maybe now that um3 step files are there aliexpress china cloners might make some.

    So, Officially I highly doubt UM will ever release cores with easy nozzle chanes. You know, for big $ companies is easier to change a cartridge/core, pay 100€ & switch it to keep working than using time to manually change a nozzle.

    On the other side the prices for the core components are really low for a cartridge that has heater, sensor, black peek as plastic holder, and their heat break design is quite neat.

    If you want to remove the nozzle @gr5 made a video and you will see that isn’t a easy adventure

    https://youtu.be/Ln_tMz8Dwd0

    But remember that noone makes that nozzles. At least for now.

    Edit. Changed it to ‘code’ because the video gives a error linking it here. So copy/paste it to see it

  11. >So to summarize. Flexible filaments do not absorb water.

    I thought it was strange. I had printed ninja flex many times before with no boiling but the most recent time it seemed to be boiling. This filament is several years old now. I'll try printing faster next time.

    I forgot to add. That this is for ninjaflex (the really flexible kind) and recreus filaflex. That’s the ones I been using. Semiflexibles never give me an issue but also don’t know if they absorb or not water.

  12. I've done it on UMO and UM2.  The most important thing for me was to oil the filament.  One drop every meter or so.  Also I print hot and slow - 10mm/sec and between 220C and 240C.  

    If the filament absorbs water you will hear it sizzling and it will come out foamy and it will work but you probably won't like it.  So keep the filament very dry. You might be able to dry the filamnent by unspooling a few meters and heating it on the heated bed at the glass temp for 6 hours with a towel over it. Haven't tried that yet. But brand new ninjaflex will be fine.

    Here is something I printed in ninjaflex:

    5a331ea43bfce_2016-05-3014_04_10.thumb.jpg.2d9d03615b7364804312d95aeae3a562.jpg

    In my months of experience with filaflex recreus and ninjaflex there’s easy to confuse bubbles from printing too slow for the temperature than actual humidity. Is a wide miss conception from old printing days.

    Basically this is what happens

    You push filament, filament reaches the temperature and it becomes almost an oil liquid. If the filament feeding speed is slower than how fast it drips then there’s air gaps between exit and input making a fake bubble effect. Basically with bowdens the amount of pressure than you can do is way too low. Maybe using a better bowden of not PFA or even the capricorn blue ptfe that e3d resells could help ona bowden.

    So to summarize. Flexible filaments do not absorb water.

  13. I would stay away from faber. They haven’t improved their formula since the start, their filament size consistency is ok but color shifts from pack to pack. Also they never solved the issue of micro dust particles inside the filaments, and sounds silly but affects more than what you expect, specially for pastel colors.

    For precision get smartmaterials (spain, super quality) fillamentum and for a safe bet colorfabb.

    Also try to buy pva boxes (easy to diy) to keep pva dry. If you planto get nylon or much pva, there are food dryers that can recover a spool overnight They are quite cheap (compared to what UM charges for a pva kilo)

    So. Tupperwares, desiccant, plastic zip bagges also help to pack filament after use (many big ones for food with zip are cheap on amazon).

    • Like 2
  14. I appreciate your input kman! I'll fiddle with support and see what happens.

    You could also do a classic spit in 4 parts so you always have a flat side to start. Then, glue, filler, sand, paint.

    Also you could try printing at 0.04 layer height, will be really slow but if time isn’t important and you have enough thickness you will be able to sand/clean/paint it really well afterwards.

  15. So, I ask you only one. Why is newer software ALWAYS better?

    :p

    Indeed :D

    For me that I use S3D I did use 3.01 version for long time because it did what I needed, only until they released 4.0 with really interesting stuff (worth the time to learn how to control it) I did put time to learn the new stuff. Adding stuff on software every 2-3 months isn't always automatically great, and for users that just need to print and be sure it will work, is better to use what one knows that works stable than toying with new versions just for the shake of it :D

    • Like 1
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