neotko

Sounds like this won't be cheap. But why this happens? It's the crossflow fan using too much power? I'll start to think about buying a china board since I have zero soldering skills (I was congratulating myself by being able to conect two wires to a molex and having it running). So sad :((

Carefull with the QG030-198/14 and UMO+. It worked for arround 5mins but when doing tests of positioning suddenly the power stuck on maximun and now my brand new umo+ fan power it's stuck. I have place a ticket to see what are my options but I suppose I will have to start searching for a new mainboard. So carefull with pluging non standard fans on an umo+ (um2 board). Btw this model blows a lot of hair. Even onthe lowest setting. It was (when it did work) working nicely. I even designed a casing (very crude). If anyone need it just pm (it's like a hanger that allows you move it a bit to make a beta test with it. For my the crossflow planit's dead (I won't be plugging any weird fans on my umo+ if the resoult it's a fast board death).

Saw that post, but my board it's the UMO+ I wish I could just swap the power from leds to the fans, that at least would let me keep working

Well I don't know what died but something did... I was installing a crossflow fan (Model QG030-198/14) and it was working perfect. I could power it up and down, from 40 it started to run and at 255 it was too much. So... What I did: - I started to power up the extruders and the bed (used Heat PLA1) - Started to test different powers on the fan to see if it was too much or just ok - After 2-3 minutes, I started to see that the crossflow fan was going too high, even with power 40 - I did 'cooldown'. The Fan didn't stop. - I pressed Power off - Power on - and Now the Fan don't stops, never, the fan power don't goes up or down. - Turned off. Disconnected the new fan. - Connected the stock fan. Power On. The Fan don't stops. - Tryed touching the temperature - fan - It was at 0. At any number it just don't stops. - Tryed to connect the cooling fan to the Led power. Even at maximum Led it only moves very little (but the leds work fine). So.. Something has died right? T_T I can't stop crying (from the inside). My UMO+ has month and a half and was assembled by iMakr. I'm using a 280W powersupply (to handle the 2 extruders) and everything else it's working perfect. - So my questions... It's there something dead on my UMO+ board? - Could I patch it in the meantime connect the fan to the led power? I tryed but the fan almost don't move, so seems the power/amps? this sends it's too low. Can I pump it up via firmware? - What are my options? T_T THANKS!

I mean... I want to double extrude pla materials using other pla as support but I was wondering (since this it's just an idea and prolly a bad one) if anyone knows some kind of pla that might have zero warping (or close), bad adhesion (so it can be easyer to break it) and if posible that could be britle (to break it easyer). I don't want to go the hips/pva road since both have chemicals or they can get bad jams etc. So... What's the worse pla you ever tryed?

really? I must update right now! Ty

I was gonna point you exactly there. And that's why I bough UMO+ and a GS280A24 powersupply, to have spare watts for dual and upgrades. But I suppose umo uses a different conector than the umo+/um2 board. Can't wait to get my hands on your stls. I want to use the stock extruders Since I have 4 (two mounted and two spares).

It's amazing. Bravo!

But if you want to change the print speed go advanced and fine tune each speed (infill, outlines, etc)

The z plugin. You can change speed at any layer/mm and many more. It's a very very usefull plugin

No estoy nada deacuerdo con emilio2. Imprimiendo a 40micras se consiguen objetos pequeños con un nivel de detalle genial. Para piezas grande no vale la pena. Pero lo que si sacas en una maquina con este nivel de precisión es justamente eso, precisión. Y poder imprimir facilmente. 7mm2 es genial para sacar piezas grandes rapidas de prototipo. La umo+ tiene la misma circuiteria que la um2 y te deja la puerta abierta a poder hacer ajustes y cambios a tu gusto. Lo de imprimir abs si quieres cerrarla, te compras una caja de plastico le cortas un par de tapas y ya tienes un heated chamber por dos duros. Yo tenia una de 500€ antes y no hay color. Ni en velocidad ni en precision entre capas/acabado. A 40micras no vale la pena para cosas grandes pero puedes mezclar procesos y hacer q algunas zonas tengan 40micras y otras 150 y consigues cosas muy finas. Eso si, facil no hay nada. Y la lija siembre a mano para darle un buen acabado. Salvo que imprimas cajitas..

I bough also a lot of stuff just in case. I think you might be overding it. An extra nozzle pack it's nice. Maybe a nozzle if you plan to use abrasive filaments. This machine it's trully well engineered. Just in case buy a pack of m3 bolts of different sizes. They come in handly if you want to print a second fan or mod stuff. If you plan to add a second extruder on umo+ plan to buy a 280w power supply. With the stuff you are buying you could almost already do it. Oh btw. Buy a pair of needle nose plier. They come in handly

One specially good think of that power supply and the one that comes from the umo+ it's that when you cut the cable you see that the wire have the same color. So it's really easy to solder (I did check with a multimeter prior soldering to be safe). Edit: Btw the model with the same conector of the power supply exist 'in theory'. I was only able to find it on russia its the GS280A24-R7B http://abtronics.ru/components/GS280A24R7B_good_1770153562/

Exactly that's my power supply. I didn't found stock for the versioneith the same connector so I did a 'cut' and soldering and it's working flawlessly. Isn't cheap but it's robust. UM2 uses the same power supply as the umo+. But it uses less watts on the bed or something like that.

I have modded mine to print only 1.75. You will use more money to just use that fiament than buying another roll. For my UMO+ to work really fine I had to do: Change the UMO feeder a bit (modding the plastic with a file, not elegant but works) Bough like a lot of ptfe 3mm/2mm to insert it on the bowden. Had to buy ptfe special glue to glue it. After 2kilos of pla I started to have problems because the pla that is now being pushed sticks and burns on the nozzle and heat barrier/throat. So I bough a throat and nozzles for 1.75. Total wasted time 5days. Money used. Around 150-200€ (I have just ginished installing the second extruder so it everything x2) Why I did it? Well I have still 400€+ 1.75mm in filaments and they are colorfabb/formfutura not cheap. So I learned a lot of this printer in the process and well it's really fun to thinker with stuff. But no, if you just have 1-2 rolls on 1.75mm it's not worth the effort to adjust something that already works super on 3mm. My 2 cents

Afger holding yhe extruder in my hand I see what you mean 100%. It reverbs like a resonance box. I was using your feeder with an mk7 (because I use 1.75) and the retracts where almost nothing but yesterday did some mod on the original feeder and it's working superb. I first thought was that because the extruder with direct and 100 esteps didn't make noise I though that was because the amount of steps it uses to have the great torque needed. (With direct the extruder failed a lot with more than 3mm2 speed. But your are 100% right. The box amplifies the sound. I'll get my semiflex and print a barrier. Thank you very very much.

Thank you both. I'll try the decloupler or just buying a 400 steps motor. The dremel idea sounds perfect. Thanks

I will give it a try thanks! I see there some comment about making noise while retracting and that's exactly the big noise I want lower because it almost wakes my 2 year boy. Anyway I will print it to see if the noise it's lower.

Hi, I want to change the feeder motor for the UM2 motor + using IRobertI feeder. Specially to lower the noisy retracts overnight. I only found this http://www.exp-tech.de/stepper-motor-68-oz-in-400-steps-rev But the inner axis does not have the small 'flat' area to place the filament grip 'thingy'. Anyone knows if the motors can be unassembled to change the axis or shouldI find other motor with the axis preassembled (but I didn't find any except on china). Thanks!

For UMO+ users. In the end This mod has problema. Being the filament that isn't pushed through the heat barrier and nozzle the main issue. The filament will leave and stay there and burn. So I just ordered a heat barrier 1.75 from china that fits perfectly and changed the nozzle. After 2 kilos of pla I had to clean the heatbarrier and nozzle becuase started to have a lot of extrussion issues. Now with the full change to 1.75mm it really really works.

Super thanks. I'll get on the design as soon it arrives. The pdf isn't really good to get a good design until it arrives.

Maybe a easier (not better ofc) approach could be using the aluminum that comes with the UMO+ and make it stay just 0.1mm (or lower) above the nozzle. With just some head sinks attached inside the cool should be ok. I mean on my UMO+ the aluminum after 8h of printing never goes beyond 50ºC (at least that's what my thermal camera says). One advance it's that it's already 'leveled' with the structure, so it should be flattening/cooling the printed results. The problem probably it's that if it don't works it will literally send the print flying The only problem I see on your idea it's that unless the nozzle it's ptfe/klepton insulated the pla/abs inside the nozzle head 'should' cool and block.

Hi, this post it's awesome. I was looking for the best posible pla fan and this rocks. I'll buy an QG030-198/14 24v and connect it to my UM+. I see JonnyBischof already used this model, any housing stl you could share? Or maybe just a photo or your setup? Pretty please? Thanks for this post!

I bough mine from mouser. But mine was 280W. Was 90€ with delivery from mouser (they paid the customs. Mine had another connector but I did a cut / soldering and it's working flawlessly

Try measuring the filament. The tange of error can make understrusion. Check the great post of https://0x7d.com/2015/01/a-guide-to-high-quality-3d-prints/ Even the 'bites' from the extruder can make very tinny understrusion.