-
Posts
4,788 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
94
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by neotko
-
-
The z plugin. You can change speed at any layer/mm and many more. It's a very very usefull plugin
-
No estoy nada deacuerdo con emilio2. Imprimiendo a 40micras se consiguen objetos pequeños con un nivel de detalle genial. Para piezas grande no vale la pena. Pero lo que si sacas en una maquina con este nivel de precisión es justamente eso, precisión. Y poder imprimir facilmente. 7mm2 es genial para sacar piezas grandes rapidas de prototipo. La umo+ tiene la misma circuiteria que la um2 y te deja la puerta abierta a poder hacer ajustes y cambios a tu gusto. Lo de imprimir abs si quieres cerrarla, te compras una caja de plastico le cortas un par de tapas y ya tienes un heated chamber por dos duros. Yo tenia una de 500€ antes y no hay color. Ni en velocidad ni en precision entre capas/acabado. A 40micras no vale la pena para cosas grandes pero puedes mezclar procesos y hacer q algunas zonas tengan 40micras y otras 150 y consigues cosas muy finas. Eso si, facil no hay nada. Y la lija siembre a mano para darle un buen acabado. Salvo que imprimas cajitas..
-
I bough also a lot of stuff just in case. I think you might be overding it. An extra nozzle pack it's nice. Maybe a nozzle if you plan to use abrasive filaments. This machine it's trully well engineered. Just in case buy a pack of m3 bolts of different sizes. They come in handly if you want to print a second fan or mod stuff. If you plan to add a second extruder on umo+ plan to buy a 280w power supply. With the stuff you are buying you could almost already do it.
Oh btw. Buy a pair of needle nose plier. They come in handly
-
One specially good think of that power supply and the one that comes from the umo+ it's that when you cut the cable you see that the wire have the same color. So it's really easy to solder (I did check with a multimeter prior soldering to be safe).
Edit: Btw the model with the same conector of the power supply exist 'in theory'. I was only able to find it on russia its the GS280A24-R7B http://abtronics.ru/components/GS280A24R7B_good_1770153562/
-
Exactly that's my power supply. I didn't found stock for the versioneith the same connector so I did a 'cut' and soldering and it's working flawlessly. Isn't cheap but it's robust.
UM2 uses the same power supply as the umo+. But it uses less watts on the bed or something like that.
-
I have modded mine to print only 1.75. You will use more money to just use that fiament than buying another roll. For my UMO+ to work really fine I had to do:
Change the UMO feeder a bit (modding the plastic with a file, not elegant but works)
Bough like a lot of ptfe 3mm/2mm to insert it on the bowden.
Had to buy ptfe special glue to glue it.
After 2kilos of pla I started to have problems because the pla that is now being pushed sticks and burns on the nozzle and heat barrier/throat.
So I bough a throat and nozzles for 1.75.
Total wasted time 5days.
Money used. Around 150-200€ (I have just ginished installing the second extruder so it everything x2)
Why I did it? Well I have still 400€+ 1.75mm in filaments and they are colorfabb/formfutura not cheap. So I learned a lot of this printer in the process and well it's really fun to thinker with stuff. But no, if you just have 1-2 rolls on 1.75mm it's not worth the effort to adjust something that already works super on 3mm. My 2 cents
-
Afger holding yhe extruder in my hand I see what you mean 100%. It reverbs like a resonance box.
I was using your feeder with an mk7 (because I use 1.75) and the retracts where almost nothing but yesterday did some mod on the original feeder and it's working superb. I first thought was that because the extruder with direct and 100 esteps didn't make noise I though that was because the amount of steps it uses to have the great torque needed. (With direct the extruder failed a lot with more than 3mm2 speed. But your are 100% right. The box amplifies the sound. I'll get my semiflex and print a barrier. Thank you very very much.
-
Thank you both. I'll try the decloupler or just buying a 400 steps motor. The dremel idea sounds perfect. Thanks
-
I will give it a try thanks!
I see there some comment about making noise while retracting and that's exactly the big noise I want lower because it almost wakes my 2 year boy. Anyway I will print it to see if the noise it's lower.
-
Hi,
I want to change the feeder motor for the UM2 motor + using IRobertI feeder. Specially to lower the noisy retracts overnight.
I only found this
http://www.exp-tech.de/stepper-motor-68-oz-in-400-steps-rev
But the inner axis does not have the small 'flat' area to place the filament grip 'thingy'. Anyone knows if the motors can be unassembled to change the axis or shouldI find other motor with the axis preassembled (but I didn't find any except on china).
Thanks!
-
For UMO+ users. In the end This mod has problema. Being the filament that isn't pushed through the heat barrier and nozzle the main issue. The filament will leave and stay there and burn. So I just ordered a heat barrier 1.75 from china that fits perfectly and changed the nozzle. After 2 kilos of pla I had to clean the heatbarrier and nozzle becuase started to have a lot of extrussion issues. Now with the full change to 1.75mm it really really works.
-
Super thanks. I'll get on the design as soon it arrives. The pdf isn't really good to get a good design until it arrives.
-
Maybe a easier (not better ofc) approach could be using the aluminum that comes with the UMO+ and make it stay just 0.1mm (or lower) above the nozzle. With just some head sinks attached inside the cool should be ok. I mean on my UMO+ the aluminum after 8h of printing never goes beyond 50ºC (at least that's what my thermal camera says). One advance it's that it's already 'leveled' with the structure, so it should be flattening/cooling the printed results. The problem probably it's that if it don't works it will literally send the print flying
The only problem I see on your idea it's that unless the nozzle it's ptfe/klepton insulated the pla/abs inside the nozzle head 'should' cool and block.
-
Hi, this post it's awesome. I was looking for the best posible pla fan and this rocks. I'll buy an QG030-198/14 24v and connect it to my UM+. I see JonnyBischof already used this model, any housing stl you could share? Or maybe just a photo or your setup? Pretty please?
Thanks for this post!
-
I bough mine from mouser. But mine was 280W. Was 90€ with delivery from mouser (they paid the customs. Mine had another connector but I did a cut / soldering and it's working flawlessly
-
Try measuring the filament. The tange of error can make understrusion. Check the great post of https://0x7d.com/2015/01/a-guide-to-high-quality-3d-prints/
Even the 'bites' from the extruder can make very tinny understrusion.
-
Sorry yeah I mean that the outter layer, inner layer, etc. if you set an outter layer slower your print will look better but inner layer use to affect too, but less. Etc etc. so you can print fast infill and slow outter layer to gain quality and speed and get a better ratio of speed/quality
-
Well I have not uploaded the fan anyware because isn't finished. I had to put some blue tape because it 'shakes' with the aluminium. But I can show you the 'beta' of it
I used scissors to save the inner aluminium 'not needed for the mod at all' but I wanted to reuse the left side and be able to change it for a shorter version If I use e3d nozzles. The right side get's the grip from two m3 nylon nuts.
Umm I can't link the photo from the iphone. Check my gallery. I'll link it when I reach the computer
The specs of the fans, I don't remember. I just got what they had on the store, they have ball bearings and they are 24V 50x50x10 I think. They don't come 'on' until the led power reachs 150-160. But at 255 they do push a nice amount of air, so much that my first fan versions where cooling the bed and I had some pla issues. The design isn't finished yet, but so far the overhangs are much better.
Edit: My fans are 50x50x15, that's why I had to scissor the left aluminum... Anyhow the air it's ok, now I need to finish the design to make it more stable and make the airflow cover the area that the nozzle prints, I think I'll try to use the two holes that are on the lower aluminum to make a good grip and because the aluminum don't go over 40-50C it should be ok as long as the fan's are on... I think
-
Advance settings it's important since it can have speed different for outter inner infill. So check it. Unless it's at 0 the 'speed' it's specific for each 'finish'
-
I use default with a 60mm m3 and added 4-6 nylon nuts to customize the distance and tension.
-
The trascend wifi sd does not work. No matter what format I use.
-
What nylon it's? If it gets weak with water it could be an awesome support material
-
Works perfectly! Thank you. Btw the extruder2 can't be controlled from the menus right? Just wondering. Thank you again
-
With the amedee firmware builderyou can choose the heater from a list, maybe ine suit your needs?
Overall speed setting in Cura?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
But if you want to change the print speed go advanced and fine tune each speed (infill, outlines, etc)