neotko
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Posts posted by neotko
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On the Marlin section the great Amedee pointed me to the firmware builder and it worked like a charm http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10173-marlin-umo-dual-extruders/#entry98827 . I'm using a 280W power supplyfrom the same company that mkes the ones ultimaker uses (check github). It's morre expensive than a chinese one (90€) but has all the safety standards. I have dual extruder almost working (I just need to wait the bowden ptfe glue to totally dry because I modded mine for 1.75mm filament). But the power works perfectly. Bed and dual nozzles and leds + fans at maximum all running perfectly. I used the pt100 that ultimaker sells for their um2 from a netherlands store that had stock and fast delivery.
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That's awesome! It's on
ultralcd.h
#define LCD_TIMEOUT_TO_STATUS 15000
Thanks a lot for your help, and speed-of-light-replys!
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Weird, a month ago the default firmware didn't had the led control, superb.
The timeout, it's the delay it takes for the screen control to go back, I like to have more time while touching stuff so I don't have to go all the way into the click click. Anyway, it works so I'm very happy
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That works, now I need to find the way to include the ledpower modifications on that and change the timeout so it's more than 15000 millisecs (too small for my
). Now I see Nozzle2 on the temperature adjustments. Thanks a lot Amedee! -
That's the think. I have compiled the umo+ firmwareon arduino (not my first time since I added led power control). But after doingthe changes I list nothing changes on the tune menu and I can't see or change the second extruder temps. It's that normal? Maybe dual only worka by gcodes?
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I have do that modifications. And Cura don't let me choose 2 extruders while adding a new machine but for umo not plus it gives the option. So I'm compiling and uploading the marlin with the changes above (using lastest firmware for umo+) but It don't works. What I'm I missing?
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My new x2 24v fans work perfectly. I had to buy 2 since I did't knew the voltage of the other fan. Thank you guys!
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Hi,
I have modified the marlin configuration.h
// This defines the number of extruders
#ifndef EXTRUDERS
#define EXTRUDERS 2 <-- was on 1, so I changed it to 2...
#endifand also
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20
#ifndef TEMP_SENSOR_1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 20 <- was on 0 but I have a pt100)
#endif
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 20But after uploading it I can't seem to be able to tune or check the temperature or move the second extruder. Where else I must edit to activate it?
(I have a 280W power supply connected to my UMO+ since the first day so I'll have enough power to use the dual extruder and bed).
The line that confuses me it's that 'ifndef tem_sensor 1'. If I remove the ifndef it fails to compile so that isn't the issue or is it?
Any kind soul can point me on the right direction? The info I find on google it's mostly from 2013 and the marlin it's different.
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Well after 2 spolls of filament I can safely say that 1.75mm works perfectly. I just need a free weekend to test the extrusion speed.
Thinks needed:
1 mk7
1 IRobertI fabulous feeder
1 Spare bowden or ptfe6mm/3mm
1 ptfe 3mm/2mm
1 PTFE Glue. 20€ on amazon
The trick for it to work. The ptfe must go just 1/1,5cm inside the heater throat. If it goes 'beyond' the metal circle it starts to go brown fast. If it goes all the way to the nozzle the boiled filament comes goes up.
I had to adjust my esteps to 104.9 and on cura I must retract 5/5,5 to avoid oozing.
The rest it's just the stock hardware. I didn't even needed a new nozzle (I bough some but so far they are on a bag). I have printed from 15mm/s to 80mm/s without problems (adjusting the pla heat).
I think that for 1.75mm the bowden should be a bit shorter but I have not try it yet because I finally tunned everything and it just works (I been doing a lot of prints of 3-8h without problems).
So if anyone need a ready to go extruder for 1.75mm it's totally doable.
On UM2 the distance of the ptfe must be different since it has a fan cooling that area.
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Well the 'sticker' isn't very informative.
The images uploaded from my iphone go 180º nuts... It says "1512-B2P-A" So no help there. Also the part number dosn't shows on github.
After reading the board pdfs (ultimaker 2 board) seems it goes 24V. Anyone can confirm this?
It's there any plan in the future to have a proper Ultimaker O+ github?
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I had similar problems with a totally different machine/setup (I'm using 1.75mm on UMO+). In the end the solution was to lower just a bit the speed of retraction. But ofc my solution probably isn't usefull. Btw, if you are using the stock feeder, go and print the IRobertI feeder, it's rock solid.
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Omg I'm so dump. There's a sticker on it... Thanks! And sorry
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I have use e3d nozzles on my umo+ and it works just fine. I did some abs tests (since I got to remove the fan). Anyway until I buy a couple of fans for pla I won't be doing the final change. But they do work just fine without big changes.
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Hi,
I want to put a second fan for pla cooling since with just the one that comes I can't get perfect complex overhangs.
The think it's that I don't know the specs of the fans that I should Install since there isn't a github for the umo+ and since it uses the board of the um2 I'm kinda lost on what voltage/serial/parallel? Configuration of fans I must buy.
Thanks!
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On my UMO+ after almost a kilo of filament finally I was able to tune everything and print really nicely with only the bowden and the robert feeder. On umo+ the trick was adjusting the retract speed/acceleration and specially the length of the 3mm/2mm ptfe that goes inside the heater throat. If it goes passing the circle middle area then it literally burns a bit and filament goes up but when the small ptfe don't goes futter then it work perfectly. I think my main issues where finding the perfect spot for the ptfe and the speed of retractions. I even thought of buying 1.75 version of the heater block/nozzle head (from china ofc) but after fiddling with the configuration it can work.
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I think on the vimeo assembly video they explain to use the upper screws to change the alignment
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Well I was wondering if it was a math of filament mm + tension + distance to far corner. Specially since on UMO+ (the one I have) and on UM2 models it's the same distance. The number really doesn't seems random at all. Since I have changed my UMO+ to work with 1.75mm I was wondering if the 67cm wasn't the best idea for a thinner filament.
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Unused everything sealed as it arrived. Only opened the box to check if everything was there.
210€ + shipping cost. Paypal. Shipment after paypal confirmation.
Only europe. Delivery from Spain
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Basically it comes to 2 thinks IRobertsI feeder and a bowden 3mm id 2mm glued inside the normal bowden. On my UMO+ it working great but I had to adjust the lenght ofthe bowden so it don't go all the way in. Because the 500€ in filament rolls it's worth the throuble but if you don't really really need it better don't do it.
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Well each line of a print should work like little bones no matter what. So at any case the best way to hold weight should be to work on different parts for the same object if the design allows it. Specially ifthe object it's going get preassure on one direction. For my proyect I print my object in two parts and one of them I must print it on a 35-45dregress so it can hold z and x preassure without breaking. But ofc If you want to break it you can, as many other nonprinted objects.
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I bough a pack of cleaning filament from e3d, seems the best 'easy' solution to clean the inside.
It's only 0.1kilos, but you use very little for each cleanning
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Out of curiosity and because I want to try some stuff. Why the bowden it's 67cm? What are the maths behind this? Thankss
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@Conny thanks for all the info. Finally my printer it's fully working at 1.75mm. Used a 2 compound glue specialfor ptfe and used the ptfe so it goes just to the end of the heater barrier but not into the nozzle. Now the retractions are super clean and after 2 prints of 5 and 7hours I'm very happy. This printer kickass
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Thankyou!
Ultimaker Origional + and dual extruders
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I'm using a power supply fromthe same company that makes the ones for ultimaker (just google thempart number that you see onthe back of the power supply) it's 90€ but has all the safety standards.