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neotko

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Everything posted by neotko

  1. You are forgetting an important factor when pointing out the slicer. Cura has control over acceleration and jerk, check a print done with one slicer and other doesn’t prove a thing. Speed vs temperature is the reason of that visual error. I was giving examples of layer heights as a guide, not a recipe. Cura is more focus-based on click-print recipes, but every object has his needs. Just print 3 benchys at the same time and see how at least 1 is perfect, and possibly 1 is meh and 1 is bad
  2. This an issue of any fdm. At 0.15-0.2 layers the time at that point shortens and it’s a small loop followed by different size infill. It’s easy to understand if you check the gcode preview what happens there. Since there’s no slicer out there that can compensate time va heat va flow, the temperature for that 2 layers changes making the print show a visual defect. Its the same effect that happens when a small island is detached from the model, as soon time and head stays more time on an area the difference from flow/temperature makes a visual defect. The solution is to print everyt
  3. I did at that time of test, also got a x/y shift months after. In the end like I say on the other post I just moved out to duet3d and been enjoying the quality of life of a proper 32bit cpu with trinamic steppers. Happy printer, happy life
  4. Looks nice and clean, my only 'but' is that the heat craw will go up affecting the small boards and the printed part. The smothers easily get to 60-70C so you better print that on something else than pla or that enclosure will deform just like the plastic covers they sell with them. The other issue of the smoothers is the torque is reduced, so if you get a x/y slipping change the travel speed for non printing moves. I also observed a lot of torque lost on the extruder, so check that if you print at the limit or raise the hotend temperature to compensate the torque. For
  5. Also @hugoboc check duet3d forum, lots of users there, very experienced on mods and hacks
  6. I did ‘cut’ the psu to the board cutting the plug, I remember someone making a convert cable from um psu to plug, but can’t find it. They have been working absolutely fantastic on my 3 printers, would never to back to atmega or no wifi boards. I have them plug into a switch with buttons to turn of each printer cutting the power, but frankly I only turn them off in vacation and since you can upload the gcodes by wifi and do everything like reset, etc, I never actually turn them off. The config.g needs some work, and I would recommend to move the Z endstop to the top (li
  7. Impressive extra options. I wish someone fix your mac, great work
  8. That's not 'um3' magic, that's just another program But, you could do that on a Duet3D, more rustic, but totally doable since um3 doesn't pop the print out and like in 99% of the printers you need to go there, remove the print and go to your station. As 'magic' I mean the heat/cold sequence to print, the amps control to manage the weak PSU. Ofc if you mean as 'magic' the start-end sequence that the Core need to avoid clogging hard, ok, that's the linux firmware pythons.
  9. Sorry I love hour idea, but somehow isn’t easier to put a duet3d board, a better PSU (the only real work the um3 linux board does is to control the amps use of each head). 99% of the magic of um3 is all cura. You could also use mark2 firmware (that does that 1% magic cura can’t) and have a um2.5 working with a bit of effort but less money. As for um3 firmware they never released the source, (github style) but you can download the restore boot image and current firmware if you google a bit inside the forum and their website. Anyhow, good luck and keep moddi
  10. Fun fact. I found out about ironing (neosanding) year before writing about it, because forcing the second pass does indeed strength the parts. The way I use it is to print 2 parts that actually hit and reprint on the same area, then neosand it. I never published it because everyone would ask for ‘scientific proof’ and I don’t have the time to do the necessary tests. This being said, my proof is that 2 delicate items stopped snapping on poat office after I realized this 🙂 Slighly better explained on my twitter
  11. Why not combing on infill? From precision point of view, it should be desired to avoid dripping on areas where the object should not have material. It's a recommendation for the printer model to avoid grinding or just is from the theory that 'dripping where you don't see doesn't matter' ? Because that's a very subjective matter.
  12. Oh forgot. Sent me a PM on Twitter so I don’t forget. I have gudo step files of the old bed stabilizer and my simple bed skis, but mind that I can use it without losing Z because I use the gudocorexy and it gives 9cm on Z that I use to place the bed flanged bearings below (making a sweet triangle to distribute the weight).
  13. Afaik that can be done pressing Shift while rotating?
  14. Mi experiencia personal es que o es el calentador que está casi muerto (prueba calentar a 220 sin imprimir nada y observa si pasa) o que la PSU de alimentación está fallando (más difícil de debuggear, pero puedes desenchufarla completamente y esperar 12h mínimo hasta que se descargue completamente la reserva de los capacitadores).
  15. Just in case you ever notice weird underextrusion that you can’t debug (specially if you don’t use geared or bondtech motor feeder) I would suggest everyone to set the extruder on duet3d to disable the interpolation on the extruder To do so change the config.g extruder config to: M350 E16 I0 ; Disable interpolation on extruderM350 X16 Y16 Z16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation for XYZ This way by splitting in two lines you can set I0 for no interpolation for the selected feeders and enable it for the rest. I had some issues with bad filamen
  16. This is the stuff I'm finishing for 2019, they are hairpins in two colors that I do with an advanced Pause script that allows me to Atomic plug the filament totally unmanned and waits for me until I go to change the color and click resume. Ofc this is all thanks to Duet3D advanced pause that has Gcode to resume previous position and even Fan, hotend, etc temperatures. What's needed to make a plugging out of this? - Manual setting to define layer number (I know this already exists) - Script to insert the Previous temperature/FanSpeed & Position set by the slicer (so an
  17. So cool to see what an architect can achieve knowing how to print the parts. Great job!
  18. @korneel I write what I think. And if you want to tak twitter, go twitter. Hugs & kisses
  19. Then send emails to every customer that has one inviting them to join this post and give you feedback. Also, stop packaging new UM S5 with a second glass and wait for a decision and make it public not just on a forum post. Not gonna happen right? Prove me wrong please, show the face and stop saying a second glass is enough compared to a precision aluminum plate, that for example one from misumi of 7mm thickness and top flatness goes for 100-120€ minimum distributor price. So?
  20. Does that means that ONLY who complains gets something better than a glass? I really think UM should do better and release a proper release note instead of hiding this on the forum.
  21. Just buy a neoceram glass plate, cut to size and cheaper than UM parts. Also, from the point of view of giving 1 extra glass, it’s a bit of shameful. UM is aiming at pro market and can’t make their promises. I would understand that from e3d and prusa, but UM thinks of itself as ‘pro’ market. Ofc the buyers could make a legal use of the written promises and ask for more money than just a glass price. Just like what happens to any mayor market seller, if they fail they get sued, clear and simple. Ofc that didn’t happen when was the um2 and the promised second extruder upgrade because that wasn’t
  22. @Rastamonk77 and anyone else interested, I did upload a full step file assembled where you can pick anypart needed (I hope) 😄 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/neotko-fatiroberti-bondtech-feeder-for-um2-um3 File is: Um2plusbondtech Full175 & Um2plusbondtech Full285 - In Step format Happy editing! Cheers!
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