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Everything posted by neotko

  1. Sorry can’t help much, I don’t use this feeder anymore so dunno. Maybe I can send you the step files so you play with the errors I made?
  2. You can set a tool Z offset to realign the Z. That’s specially necessary if you don’t have a calibration tool for the Z or if you keep the endstop at the bottom. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_G10_Tool_Offset Using this you can change the Z offset for the tool (you can do a T0 after changing the main tool Z offset on the config.g so this kicks in). I moved the endstop to the top to avoid using this specially because the endstop at the bottom makes the Z repetition less accurate (heat, distance, etc can add 0.1 error that for me is not good enou
  3. Tinkergnome did an awesome job to push the um2 firmware that for sure. But the hardware is what it is. Duet3D can do more (and expand to more extruders/tools) and types of heat sensors (the cheap ones or use pt100 with their sensor boards (I use that)) To adapt the tinkergnome to duet3D toolchange theres one challenge that I never did test. The PSU is on the limit for dual, tinkergnome did an awesome job balancing the power use & the heat sequence. But all that could be mimicked with some reverse engineering & using the macros. Duet3D allows to set a max power use for each
  4. I agree on this 100% duet3D give to that printers (that are open source and people work on features ACTIVELY) will give you more for your buck. Think that while UM gives profiles (their argument) and ‘tuned’ that’s only a reality for um3-umS that are the focus of UM now. UM hasn’t updated hardware or firmware for um2 in 3 years and much less their basic firmware (because they think isn’t needed and also they don’t make € from that). Railcore is a very interesting machine, with a really sturdy frame up to big speeds. And E3D multitool is a nice idea for dual/multitool stuff (but is
  5. Its WAY more quiet Prints better since doesn’t has the 16 moves/second bottleneck of the 16bit atmegas. The wifi/net control works great, you can make macros to automate stuff as you want like I did to pause/atomic pull/swap color/resume
  6. That’s the issue umo+ uses 24V for the fans, so either the fans died or the pwm transistor died (most probably the first option than the second). To use 12V fans on umo+ you need to connect them Serial not parallel
  7. Most probably, specially because umo+/um2 use square flanged bearings and the aluminum has holes where we screw to to distribute the tension. But nothing too hard to adapt for yours
  8. I have 2 new versions that work better than his old design. We developed a holder behind the bed (like skis) that keep the weight distribution better. Gudo also on his last version of the gudoXYCore made a new bed stabilizer that mixed my skis design with a compensation system. I will dig into his step files and try to come with a version to publish.
  9. Is that new? Never seen that indeed on the um3 I had or on the um2plua feeders
  10. Indeed and I would agree on that except: a) You propose a full replacement solution (ergo doesn’t matter if you break the old one) b) Isn’t that difficult (specially because um3 feeder doesn’t have filament sensor) & there’s a nice step by step guide here https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/64-disassembly-of-the-ultimaker-2-plus-feeder
  11. You can always try other shops... Anyway I doubt you couldn’t buy just this parts to an official reseller...?
  12. Correct me if I’m wrong but afaik UM since the um3 doesn’t sell small parta in general, but if you ask your UM friends for the correct part number you might be lucky. Ofc you could buy a new feeder for an affordable 95€ (motor-less?) http://ultimaker.utopica3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=625
  13. If I get your idea, basically you want the slicer to do motion dampening acceleration by already assuming the ranges on which the printer works? Something like this? Ofc the slicer should take into consideration the motion of tge board an compensate accordingly? Sounds like a great idea. Anyhow I see a real issue of the base of how the very old motion planner executes the extrusion. For perimeters (and 90%) of the thingiverses should indeed work. The slicer should then add an AI layer to distinguish between the big outside areas and the small details, to a
  14. In my experience that effect always shows specially when the X/Y are out of square https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19953-aligning-the-axles
  15. Set the led range and ‘save’ current settings. Your led setting will be saved and used on the next turn on
  16. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20983-ultimaker-original-custom-firmware-builder Use that firmware to get full Led control thanks to @amedee
  17. Afaik, unless they released a new model on the last year, um3 model is the same he already posted, and it’s only available on 12V and 5V. UM use them in series not parallel and they work just fine. https://eu.mouser.com/datasheet/2/632/BFB30x30x10mm-515772.pdf
  18. Personally since they have show zero improvement on this last 3 years nor spooled their colors this wouldn’t surprise me, specially With the prices of colorfabb now that offers custom RAL colors you can have 2 kilos perfectly spooled of almost any color. I did stop getting faber years ago and moved to cheaper and more production reliable offers from fillamentum, eumakers and colorfabb for my shop needs.
  19. WTF!??? OMG T_T!!!!! So so very sad ?
  20. I don’t agree with this assessment. Just mainly because the acceleration/jerk it’s set very low on the um3. Even changing the speed to 100mm/s for a foot print that small would force a real speed way lower since the print has many curves on the outside. Ofc the infill will look bad, but even so, the print area it’s too small to reach the set speed because the acceleration/jerk cura settings. I would try to increase a bit the feeder, so it slips less and causes less grinding (too little feeder tension for the um knurled bolts is as bad as too much). Also, try to print something wit
  21. The other value making micro errors could be how much the tooths cave in the filament (depends from filament to filament) changing the actual dia/rotation
  22. There’s a way, but I haven’t fully tested it yet. But it would involve a lot of processes. I’m waiting for the new e3d super-non-stick nozzles since it involves sanding and reprinting a half size height last layer. Anyhow my main focus right now is to remove the print lines from the bottom layer, but for that I’m getting mixed results atm. Also, very little time lately!
  23. The actual difference is even bigger since they left room for the switch mechanism to not occupy print area
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