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neotko

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Posts posted by neotko

  1. 8 hours ago, Rastamonk77 said:

    Hi there, I've just print and installed 2 of the Neotko FatIRobert on my um2+ i'm having similar issue as @derbroti with the 2.85mm.

     

    I have lots of play  ( that I was able to resolve with some washer) and  reprinting a the arm.... but no matter what I'm getting some serious under-extrusion issue.

     

    I've been playing now for 2 days, taking apart,checking an tuning my Thinkergnome firmware but i cannot seems to resolve the issue.

     

    Any one that can help on the matter?

     

     

    Sorry can’t help much, I don’t use this feeder anymore so dunno. Maybe I can send you the step files so you play with the errors I made?

  2. On 11/16/2018 at 4:54 PM, JRDM said:

     

    Does that mean you need to check and adjust the Z value in config.g whenever you change nozzles, for example?

     

    You can set a tool Z offset to realign the Z. That’s specially necessary if you don’t have a calibration tool for the Z or if you keep the endstop at the bottom.

     

    https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_G10_Tool_Offset

     

    Using this you can change the Z offset for the tool (you can do a T0 after changing the main tool Z offset on the config.g so this kicks in).

     

    I moved the endstop to the top to avoid using this specially because the endstop at the bottom makes the Z repetition less accurate (heat, distance, etc can add 0.1 error that for me is not good enough). With an endstop on top, without the metal and a small plastic part to hit the sensor directly my endstop accuracy is near 0.025 max error. So yeah I prefer the endstop on the top not the bottom like um2. 

     

    Another trick to calibrate the bed fast is to do a M18 X Y that will unlock the x and y motors so you can move it by hand and realign the z calibration knobs really fast without the bed assistant stuff. Anyhow mimicking it is quite easy with macros, but IMO totally unnecessary 

    • Like 1
  3. On 11/7/2018 at 11:49 AM, conny_g said:

    @neotko

     

    Currently using the tinker firmware. How does that compare with the duet firmware?

    And I use the magnetic tool changer dual mod, is that possible with the duet firmware and how do I implement it there, you mentioned macros?

     

     

    Tinkergnome did an awesome job to push the um2 firmware that for sure. But the hardware is what it is. Duet3D can do more (and expand to more extruders/tools) and types of heat sensors (the cheap ones or use pt100 with their sensor boards (I use that))

     

    To adapt the tinkergnome to duet3D toolchange theres one challenge that I never did test. The PSU is on the limit for dual, tinkergnome did an awesome job balancing the power use & the heat sequence. But all that could be mimicked with some reverse engineering & using the macros. Duet3D allows to set a max power use for each bed/heaters, so it shouldn’t be more complex that setting the right limit (this is something marlin doesn’t do). 

     

    The advantage is that changing stuff is just gcode txt editing that can be done through the www access of the duet3D. So in terms of trial/error it speeds things up quite a lot compared to firmware-flash-test

  4. 5 hours ago, JRDM said:

     

    Railcore II ( https://www.kraegar.com/railcoreii)

     

    or

     

    E3D Toolchanger ( https://e3d-online.com/blog/2018/08/20/e3d-tool-changer-and-motion-system-beta-30-incoming/ ).

     

    Both machines demonstrate the power of the Duet controller platform.

     

    I've been meaning to convert one of my UM2s to Duet Maestro.

     

    I agree on this 100% duet3D give to that printers (that are open source and people work on features ACTIVELY) will give you more for your buck. Think that while UM gives profiles (their argument) and ‘tuned’ that’s only a reality for um3-umS that are the focus of UM now. UM hasn’t updated hardware or firmware for um2 in 3 years and much less their basic firmware (because they think isn’t needed and also they don’t make € from that). 

     

    Railcore is a very interesting machine, with a really sturdy frame up to big speeds. And E3D multitool is a nice idea for dual/multitool stuff (but is more dependent on the user and less click/print).

     

    If you want to learn and get your hands dirty go for any of this 2. You will get more printer (and better frame speeds and hardware) for almost the same or less €/$

     

    Duet3D big advantages is that can grown and personally what I love is that rebuilding the firmware is as easy as editing a gcode/txt file and clicking the reset button. Also their boards have been tested by many for years now and they are rock solid. And last point, a new um2 board is around 250€ and you get atmega, old & noisy steppers. The only UM machine with silent chips is the UMS and well... that’s for other post ?

    • Like 2
  5. 1 hour ago, TMicke said:

    This has cought my interest, I understand that you get full control over your printer with g code and of course the web UI.

     

    But what about print quality?

    Does it really get even more quieter?

    What else is there to gain with a switch to a Duet3D board?

     

     

    Its WAY more quiet

    Prints better since doesn’t has the 16 moves/second bottleneck of the 16bit atmegas.

    The wifi/net control works great, you can make macros to automate stuff as you want like I did to pause/atomic pull/swap color/resume 

     

    • Thanks 1
  6. On 10/22/2018 at 5:56 AM, brentwerder said:

    E3D v6 with two 12v fans wired in parallel

     

    That’s the issue

     

    umo+ uses 24V for the fans, so either the fans died or the pwm transistor died (most probably the first option than the second).

     

    To use 12V fans on umo+ you need to connect them Serial not parallel 

  7. 15 hours ago, ataraxis said:

    Oh man, that's really sad... I was really impressed of his creative drive.
    But to be honest: I do not really understand why they have deleted his designs - they would have been some kind of legacy to his community in my eyes.

     

    I have 2 new versions that work better than his old design. We developed a holder behind the bed (like skis) that keep the weight distribution better. Gudo also on his last version of the gudoXYCore made a new bed stabilizer that mixed my skis design with a compensation system. I will dig into his step files and try to come with a version to publish.

    • Thanks 1
  8. 23 minutes ago, SandervG said:

    It is not possible (or let's play it safe; very very difficult) to remove the worn down parts in an Ultimaker 3 feeder without breaking anything else, and install a new set correctly. I'm sure one could find any component online, official or not official. But do make sure, if you want to go that route that you can actually install it and you don't end up with some parts you can not use. I think this is a fair 'warning'.

     

    Indeed and I would agree on that except:

     

    a) You propose a full replacement solution (ergo doesn’t matter if you break the old one)

    b) Isn’t that difficult (specially because um3 feeder doesn’t have filament sensor) & there’s a nice step by step guide here https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/64-disassembly-of-the-ultimaker-2-plus-feeder

  9. 2 hours ago, SandervG said:

     

    Not specifically as of right now. It depends on what material you use how fast your knurled wheel will wear off, so depending on your own findings you have to decide whether or not it's worth running that abrasive material through your Ultimaker 3. You have already been using these abrasive materials, do you detect any differences on your feeder?

    What we do know, at some point it will wear down and cause under extrusion. Since the feeders are press-fit, you can not simply replace the worn down knurled part, but you'll need to replace the entire feeder housing. 

     

    You can always try other shops...

     

     

    Anyway I doubt you couldn’t buy just this parts to an official reseller...?

    7894B255-6FD2-456D-88FD-A28668B32C03.jpeg

    • Like 1
  10. 23 minutes ago, ahoeben said:

    Can UM3 users order and use the S5 knurled sleeve once their stock knurled sleeve has worn out?

     

    Correct me if I’m wrong but afaik UM since the um3 doesn’t sell small parta in general, but if you ask your UM friends for the correct part number you might be lucky.

     

    Ofc you could buy a new feeder for an affordable 95€ (motor-less?)

     

    http://ultimaker.utopica3d.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=625

  11. 1 hour ago, foehnsturm said:

    Printed at 50mm/s, 30mm/s jerk; bottom half: 20mm square, top half: same square with tiny bulging / ringing corrections. Could a slicer or even a post-processing plugin apply those corrections to the path in a generic way? I think yes!

    bulging-ringing-sw.jpg

     

    If I get your idea, basically you want the slicer to do motion dampening acceleration by already assuming the ranges on which the printer works? 

     

    Something like this? Ofc the slicer should take into consideration the motion of tge board an compensate accordingly?

     

    Sounds like a great idea. Anyhow I see a real issue of the base of how the very old motion planner executes the extrusion. For perimeters (and 90%) of the thingiverses should indeed work. 

     

    The slicer should then add an AI layer to distinguish between the big outside areas and the small details, to avoid getting under/over extrusion due extruder planner. Also, old atmegas would suffer BIG time from continuous changes on speeds to mimic a motion dampening.

     

     

    • Like 1
  12. On 9/21/2018 at 6:31 PM, Julian2801 said:

    Thank you very much for your quick reply. I've applied some oil (the unilube oil that was included with the UM3). The weird thing is, that I don't have any loose belts. I've tightened the short belts and checked the long belts.

     

    I'm trying another print now and see how it goes.

     

    In my experience that effect always shows specially when the X/Y are out of square 

     

    https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19953-aligning-the-axles

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  13. 1 hour ago, PhilDesign said:

    @neotko Yes I use this firmware, to turn them on.

    But I looking for a way that there are on when I turn on the Ultimaker. 

    Right now I always have to turn them on when I switch on the UMO by the UltiControll.

    Is there a way to set them to 255 when you powered on the UMO? (there set back to 0 when I turn on and off)

     

    Set the led range and ‘save’ current settings. Your led setting will be saved and used on the next turn on

    • Thanks 1
  14. 3 hours ago, ultiarjan said:

    the fans used in the ultimaker3 (partnumber on github) are available in 12V and 24V

     

     

    Afaik, unless they released a new model on the last year, um3 model is the same he already posted, and it’s only available on 12V and 5V. UM use them in series not parallel and they work just fine. 

     

    https://eu.mouser.com/datasheet/2/632/BFB30x30x10mm-515772.pdf

  15. Personally since they have show zero improvement on this last 3 years nor spooled their colors this wouldn’t surprise me, specially With the prices of colorfabb now that offers custom RAL colors you can have 2 kilos perfectly spooled of almost any color. I did stop getting faber years ago and moved to cheaper and more production reliable offers from fillamentum, eumakers and colorfabb for my shop needs. 

  16. 11 hours ago, fbrc8-erin said:

    I agree with @gr5 on this one. If you want to print at that sort of volume per second with PLA and a .4 nozzle, you have to increase the temperature. As a result, overhangs won't look as good probably because of the cooling.

     

    Several years ago, @illuminarti wrote an extrusion test for the UM2 that lets you take the extrusion up to 10 cubic mm/s as a means of pinpointing the level of under-extrusion you're seeing. It takes you from 3 cubic mm to 10. However, you can only successfully get it printing at the upper levels if you're printing at 230 C, which is what we built into the gcode for that test.

     

    Increase your temperature, increase the nozzle size, or decrease the speed.

     

    I don’t agree with this assessment. Just mainly because the acceleration/jerk it’s set very low on the um3. Even changing the speed to 100mm/s for a foot print that small would force a real speed way lower since the print has many curves on the outside. Ofc the infill will look bad, but even so, the print area it’s too small to reach the set speed because the acceleration/jerk cura settings. I would try to increase a bit the feeder, so it slips less and causes less grinding (too little feeder tension for the um knurled bolts is as bad as too much). 

     

    Also, try to print something with the default profiles to see if keeps failing or works, that will give the moderators and others a base point to compare.

    • Like 1
  17. 4 hours ago, foehnsturm said:

    Feeding 40 mm filament with the filament tip just leaving the feeder, no resistance due to bowden or hotend.

    Blue: extruder e-position  = number of steps the extruder performed  / steps per e

    Green: measured e-position = number of flow sensor steps / flow sensor resolution 


    image.thumb.jpeg.78f20a09157153bf0b52fa0c0da63f97.jpeg

     

    When looking at longer e-distances there are minor, periodically repeating deviations which indicate a slight eccentricity of the flow sensor drive gear which should be fixed with the next iteration.

     

     

    The other value making micro errors could be how much the tooths cave in the filament (depends from filament to filament) changing the actual dia/rotation

  18. 8 hours ago, inventabuild said:

    Neosanding is nice when a matte finish is desired.  When printing with PLA Is there a technique for making a shiny finish either with the toolhead or a secondary operation like wiping with wd40 or something else that will give a lasting shiny finish in neosanded areas?

     

    There’s a way, but I haven’t fully tested it yet. But it would involve a lot of processes. I’m waiting for the new e3d super-non-stick nozzles since it involves sanding and reprinting a half size height last layer.

     

    Anyhow my main focus right now is to remove the print lines from the bottom layer, but for that I’m getting mixed results atm. 

     

    Also, very little time lately!

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