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Everything posted by neotko

  1. Main issue from UM3 is that the firmware must be signed by UM (like apple firmware). Ofc this can be circumvent as posted here. The problem anyhow is that is way too complex for a printer to do that, and there’s a Huge (and by pms from 3 um3 users, and my experience when I had one, is way too easy to brick the um3 by just writing a bad comma or dot). Check Oliver instructions to upload an unsigned firmware http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=12&start=930#p9062
  2. I don’t see why you enjoy pointing out others ‘truths’. Hes just giving his opinion about how he thinks is best. On the other side, Cura Indeed should be the one to mark the safe areas to make a pause. Maybe a plug-in that adds an scape point area on each layer, so if you pause the printer waits until the perfect spot is on, minimizing the possible visible errors. Anyhow without a purge, prime, clean area, is very hard to get a perfect resume. For dual it could be the prime tower, but for single unless is done perfectly on a X spot (Cura could mark the spot for each la
  3. Indeed isnt plug & play and would need more work. But learning gcode isnt much complex but indeed if you are use to um2 menus... Anyhow to adjust the firmware to ‘change filament’ you will need to edit Marlin firmware and rebuild it to adjust the bowden length, but on duet3d you can write a Macro (gcode file) to do the same. One thing for sure. Learning how to rebuild and edit Marlin tinkergnome to adjust the heat sensors, fans, hotend temperatures etc, will be Much more complex than learning how to edit gcode text files (duet3d uses all the important configuration with gcode
  4. You should seriously think on using a duet3D. Can use high amp nemas, allows mirror, duplication, has a forum for users, extensive documentation and uses a updated firmware (um2 firmware only has updates thanks to the personal work of tinkergnome). Also, way cheaper than a 300€ um2 board
  5. Minus bed clips, prime tower, switch mechanism...
  6. Activate Print islands without optimization. Cut the processes in two at the height it has problems and activate that setting. It will take longer but should work. Or get a better fancap, that always helps too.
  7. Mines are old, the one of the photo is ‘new’ in theory allows for tmc drivers.
  8. I have 2 original um2 and 2 china on a bag, for a rainy day. But probably if I build a fourth one would also be with duet3d
  9. I had two china clone boards, one was running for year and a half without issues. The only issue I had with them is that the fan/led molex plug was inverted (the plastic) other than that no issues. Can’t recommend a seller since the ones I bought from have removed the product
  10. Umm I thought that one had the chips outside not integrated. Care to post a photo?
  11. Random thought. Did you add a cooling fan to the stepper chips? Since they are plug-able stepper chips they tend to get much hotter
  12. Check the small fan. It also has a transistor. Just in case...
  13. Well is open source, go code Now for real, indeed I never used it so I assumed it has the same stuff as the web on mac/iphone. But I’m very happy with the web control to manage my 3 printers
  14. The panel goes away indeed. You can buy a paneldue to do all, but I don’t have it. I control them opening the IP address of each machine on the mac or the phone and do baby stepping adjustments or launch prints, preheat, everything.
  15. About the transistors of the 2.1.5 they are weak yeah, and also probably the board main power (black or blue square thing near the plug) isn’t capable of sustaining more than 10A (like um2 boards) and maybe that did help. Anyhow resoldering a new bc817 isn’t hard, but requires patience and minimum knowhow (and lots of kapton tape XD)
  16. Duet3D has their own reprap firmware. The main difference is that everything (steppers, voltage, pid, endstops, inveet motors, everything) is changed by just editing a gcode file. So you can reconfigure the whole machine settings with a copy paste reboot. All also done through wifi or ethernet.
  17. @ChiefSwiftnick first retraction seems the classic retract before moving to avoid dripping. The second seems a tool change retraction
  18. Combing instead of moving the from A to B search for paths of already printed areas to go though A to B. The intention is to avoid a retraction (in theory). There are more than one behavior on combing (no skin allows to remove scratches (or some) when using it with no retraction. Basically, times goes up because travels from A to B is longer, and also since UM marlins don’t have separated the Travel & Print accel/jerk when used it might (not aure of this 100%) as a Print move, so if the combing is done on the perimeters where accel/jerk is really low, then the speed of the mov
  19. You can do that on Cura. Unhide the options and assign rooftop to pva. Ofc you will need better than average pva for it to print right on top of pla (and the pva must be as dry as the desert)
  20. I think works great but also I would love to have 3 shapes to choose. Like a brush. Different shapes to paint the unsupported areas? Or maybe just a slider to change the box size? Like a brush slider to make bigger/smaller unsupported areas
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