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neotko

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Posts posted by neotko

  1. Main issue from UM3 is that the firmware must be signed by UM (like apple firmware). Ofc this can be circumvent as posted here. The problem anyhow is that is way too complex for a printer to do that, and there’s a Huge (and by pms from 3 um3 users, and my experience when I had one, is way too easy to brick the um3 by just writing a bad comma or dot).

     

    Check Oliver instructions to upload an unsigned firmware

     

    http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=12&start=930#p9062

     

  2. 4 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

    Nah, you have it set in your mind. So, have at it. The UM line does not take you into account and are doing nothing to address these issues. So, you win and know all. Until they do it your way, nobody will be safe in printing.

     

    I don’t see why you enjoy pointing out others ‘truths’. Hes just giving his opinion about how he thinks is best.

     

    On the other side, Cura Indeed should be the one to mark the safe areas to make a pause. Maybe a plug-in that adds an scape point area on each layer, so if you pause the printer waits until the perfect spot is on, minimizing the possible visible errors. 

     

    Anyhow without a purge, prime, clean area, is very hard to get a perfect resume. For dual it could be the prime tower, but for single unless is done perfectly on a X spot (Cura could mark the spot for each layer optimal pause/resume) it’s hard to avoid visible issues.

     

    So, imo, machine + slicer

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, RudydG said:

    But can i use the UM2 firmware on this board? I would like to keep the software side simple, and would like to have the ultimaker features (like loading and unloading material) ?

    Just checked, wow, some serious forum, and it seems to be the motherboard of 'today" ;-)

    Will check into it!!

     

     

    Indeed isnt plug & play and would need more work. But learning gcode isnt much complex but indeed if you are use to um2 menus... Anyhow to adjust the firmware to ‘change filament’ you will need to edit Marlin firmware and rebuild it to adjust the bowden length, but on duet3d you can write a Macro (gcode file) to do the same. 

     

    One thing for sure. Learning how to rebuild and edit Marlin tinkergnome to adjust the heat sensors, fans, hotend temperatures etc, will be Much more complex than learning how to edit gcode text files (duet3d uses all the important configuration with gcode text files instead of the Marlin needs to rebuild the firmware for critical stuff)

  4. 1 hour ago, RudydG said:

    Thanks!!!!

    Did some research, and because the Z axe is a nema23 stepper, i will have to use an external beefier driver, so i am limited to the choice of motherboard, it will be a rumba. But the firmware will ben compatible ofcourse.

    Starting a long project, but in the end, it will be a 300x300,300mm dual head printer ;-)

     

     

    You should seriously think on using a duet3D. Can use high amp nemas, allows mirror, duplication, has a forum for users, extensive documentation and uses a updated firmware (um2 firmware only has updates thanks to the personal work of tinkergnome).

     

    Also, way cheaper than a 300€ um2 board

  5. 6 hours ago, zerspaner_gerd said:

     

    That's not quite true, although I've just recently switched to Duet Wifi with my UM2 Dual.

     

    But I expected more from a "PanelDue 7 inch screen", many settings are currently missing!


    Or you so spoiled by the Duet web interface.

     

    Well is open source, go code :p

     

    Now for real, indeed I never used it so I assumed it has the same stuff as the web on mac/iphone. But I’m very happy with the web control to manage my 3 printers :D

    • Like 1
  6. 32 minutes ago, conny_g said:

     

    So the front panel display/ wheel are unused after the mod? Do you need a different display then or just none?

     

    The panel goes away indeed. You can buy a paneldue to do all, but I don’t have it. I control them opening the IP address of each machine on the mac or the phone and do baby stepping adjustments or launch prints, preheat, everything.

  7. About the transistors of the 2.1.5 they are weak yeah, and also probably the board main power (black or blue square thing near the plug) isn’t capable of sustaining more than 10A (like um2 boards) and maybe that did help. Anyhow resoldering a new bc817 isn’t hard, but requires patience and minimum knowhow (and lots of kapton tape XD) 

    • Like 1
  8. Duet3D has their own reprap firmware. The main difference is that everything (steppers, voltage, pid, endstops, inveet motors, everything) is changed by just editing a gcode file. So you can reconfigure the whole machine settings with a copy paste reboot. All also done through wifi or ethernet. 

    • Like 2
  9. Combing instead of moving the from A to B search for paths of already printed areas to go though A to B. The intention is to avoid a retraction (in theory). There are more than one behavior on combing (no skin allows to remove scratches (or some) when using it with no retraction. 

     

    Basically, times goes up because travels from A to B is longer, and also since UM marlins don’t have separated the Travel & Print accel/jerk when used it might (not aure of this 100%) as a Print move, so if the combing is done on the perimeters where accel/jerk is really low, then the speed of the move should be even slower. But I suppose Cura devs already change accel/jerk for combing so it’s done as a travel accel/jerk and not like a print one?

     

    Anyhow, longer travel distances, more print time. 

  10. 1 hour ago, ahoeben said:

     

    I am not sure if that was an intended change.

     

     

    Could you elaborate on that? I am not sure I understand.

     

    I think works great but also I would love to have 3 shapes to choose. Like a brush. Different shapes to paint the unsupported areas?  Or maybe just a slider to change the box size? Like a brush slider to make bigger/smaller unsupported areas

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