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Everything posted by neotko

  1. Cr10 PID is know to not be accurate https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/creality-cr-10/forums/general/topic:17593 https://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/PID+Tuning/6 PID is a controlled temperature algorithm so the heat stays as stable as possible. When heat changes or fluctuates the print literally goes up/down microns making a small Z banding. Ofc on open machines like the cr10 that’s normal since heat has everywhere to escape, but tunning PID should help. Ofc mind that since is a very open machine winter/summer room differences will affect
  2. A point in between. If goes tootight it will deform when tightening the steel to the heater block (avoid using the spring and print an fixed height spacer). If it leaks remember that cleaning the steel coupler threads is very important or the burn material won’t allow the ptfe to contact the hotend making a gap that will add tons of blops, burn particles or even a big leak
  3. For me changing to the default fonts didn't fix it, but changing to Arial font did This with the theme.json that uses default And this one with Arial as font al clear and sweet
  4. Oh it can happen on many printers. I think the big issue is that the cores can break on the process. But when this happens on a um2/umo/e3d the replacement parts are cheaper an there’s a whole library of manuals of how to do that. On the um3 there’s no parts, but full cartridges/cores Its a know issue of fdm. Part unsticks and sticks to the nozzle um2 examples https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15266-ultimaker-2-fossilised-hotend/ https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/15266-ultimaker-2-fossilised-hotend/ The other problem o
  5. Indeed Cthulhu! That’s how I nickname the printheads flooded XD Specially since this one https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/13267-umo-strange-issue/
  6. I think (and I know you ulticult members will think this is me being negative and blaaablabla) the other 10% could have been mitigated also by properly communicating that most of the first um3 printers had a really bad glass (within the um specs of a 0.3 total up/down warp) that can’t be fixed totally by the automagic level. Also. About prints detachment. I have a 1/1000 times that happens. I only use hairspray for complex materials but that’s life (I never nor will ever use the glue stick). Also ofc shit happens. But also, with zero communication from um to the customers about ho
  7. Oh wait I see. Maybe the changed something on new firmwares (I don’t have a um3 anymore since well, long history) you should be able to move to Griffin and there should be a sendgcode.py the. You can do python sendgcode (or something like that? To run the python, then ince inside sendgcode program you just send gcode directly to the marlin like a pronterface
  8. Try to send other gcodes like G28 Z0 to home Z if the E moves doesn’t do anything is probably because it has a minimum temperature protection. If um3 marlin allows it you should be able to send a M302 to allow Extruder movement when the tools are below 170C
  9. You need to enable dev mode and access the machine using ssh root@yourprinterIP and the password is ultimaker then using sendgcode you can send the gcode you want like “sendgcode G1 E10 F300” (where E is 10mm and F300 is the speed Ofc the hard part is to change the esteps of the um3 since editing the json file can very easily Brick the printer if one comma or dot is misplaced
  10. The gcode ends abruptly Was send by wifi, or saved on usb? Because maybe the usb wasn't properly ejected. Clearly or Cura failed to write all the file or the file saving process was cut before the ended
  11. Most moderators (if not all) are on UM offices having some fun and provably seeing new secret stuff. So expect less speed from them. And the guidelines are https://community.ultimaker.com/guidelines/
  12. That’s a um3 print area. The dark grey areas are no-print areas. The switch mechanism, bed clips, or if you use dual all that + prime tower oh nvm you mean the warning msgs. Yeah, annoying thing when many pop. You can disable some auto arrange options on the preferences to remove that ones
  13. Indeed it will add unnecessary time, but also if you can pull it of cleanly you could leave the printer all weekend working and get a production of 3 days done faster, because you would only need to remove it once. Less human hours/price
  14. The idea is good. In fact gonna use that idea to test bcn3d pva, on that printer making that should be easier. UM pva doesn’t stick perfectly and sometimes breaks in parts, that why um3 pva profile needs a big build from the bottom to work. The idea of stacking is really interesting, but that might also add the prime tower time, since you need an area for the pva core to purge after the wait until it’s used. Ofc, the advantage of leaving the printer unattended is a big one for lots of repetitive prints.
  15. Last meaningful update on um2+ firmware was 9months ago. If UM ever updates the old machines firmwares it would be something interesting, but for what some UM comments daid on the past they don’t see the need for doing that. So, no need to worry
  16. Where’s the issue there Nallath? My joking about updating drivers on a osx? (Osx ain’t windows) Or me asking for a feature to create a debug file so future graphical issues can be debugged better and easier by Cura team?
  17. I wonder what effect would do a clogged printhead smashing the switch mechanism after 8 hours... edit: Not clogged but you know, when they fill of material and they make a chulthu monster inside/outside
  18. Curiosly yesterday bough a neoceram to test on my sigma, and it was worse than the borosilicate glass. Seems bcn can get 0.1 max error borosilicates, and they also can hold high temperature. The part that I think is most interesting on this kind of glasses is that they (like you said) don't break on temperature changes, and also they don't change size while heating/cooling, that's also important to get an stable Z. I wish I had cash to do real tests on this stuff, is so fun to experiment
  19. Sorry no idea. This weekend finally changed my 3rd machine to duet3D. Can’t be happier. Interesting as an off topic, it handles PID much (MUCH) more precise than um2/marlin (or at least UM old marlin, since I never used new marlins) I would save the money of this stuff and just move to a better board. Wifi, better pid (I still need to run PID for the beds to see if it can also improve the um2 pid default values). Ofc it isnt for an user that doesn’t have do any diy atm. So long and thanks for all the fish Um boards XD
  20. That’s the best joke ever hahaahahahah OSX hahahahahahaha This made my day XD Any chance of launching anything to generate a debug file so this issue can be fixed? Was on 3.1 beta, then fixed, now back again
  21. That’s an interesting point. Maybe you could make a ‘benchmark’ mode that records the time to slice using A settings (not editable) and makes a log. Maybe with a high count poly (not a box, maybe a ultirobot x3 scale). Then it could make a speed log that you guys could actually use to check. Like a CuraBenchmark for releases. That could be used to post it anywhere (counting that it should log cpu, gpu, os, and speeds). Bad idea?
  22. They still don’t understand the importance of a no-tricks mode? sad...
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