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neotko

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Everything posted by neotko

  1. I disagree, they have the best documentation and wiki answers one could dream off
  2. Una pregunta. Usas 1.75 con un bondtech de 2.85 o un bondtech de 1.75? Yo comprobaría que los gears están perfectamente alineados. Es fácil de ver y de arreglar. Bondtech tiene manuales para eso.
  3. Seems they released a 1.1 Plus TL-Smoother with 8 diodes and (they say) less noise Gonna buy one and test, since so far soon I’ll only have 1 machine with this boards, duet3D for the win! So the product is at http://s.aliexpress.com/ye2quMf2 I will buy today and test when it arrives. Also seem they changed the cable extender.
  4. Copperfill it's a filament that heats fast, copper has good thermal conductivity, and since the UM3 cores (3dsolex too) have a steel heatbreak, it should be easy to clog one just by using more than a few retractions. Tunning that material for a hotend like that would need to think of the material as if it where wood or flexible on a full metal hotend. I would start by reducing the retraction amount on the same area and increasing a few mm the minimum print before retraction. That should cut down fast the heat crawling up on the copper filament. Probably also you might need to tune the retraction for tool change. Also mind that 3dsolex 'ruby's are not the same as Anders Olsson ruby nozzle, they are based (or you could say 'inspired' XD ) on his first beta design but not on how he evolved the design to cut down the need for more temperature and optimize the precision of the ruby holes or the kind of rubys used. 3DSolex just added their 'patented' two holes exit to compensate for the need of more temperature of that old design.
  5. Basically new cura checks the gcode generated for the material ID. Default S3D profile has a value that cura doesn’t like so you can’t send it to the printer. (Not aure if this happens on the last firmware using sdcard) There’s an user on the s3d forum (that I can’t link because it fails to link from here) that losted the values for all materials so it passes the check. Isn’t that fails, is that they added an extra layer to check that the gcode. Indeed isn’t biggie, but is there.
  6. Thanks for this So I haven't built Marlin before so just trying to judge the level of effort / knowledge required here. So before I make any changes I want to see that I can build marlin; and right now I don't know what I don't know I am running Windows. I am in fact using Tinker, so I downloaded the source from: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin In the readme it says "Install the arduino software IDE/toolset v23 (Some configurations also work with 1.x.x)"I installed the latest Arduino IDE 1.8.5 I copied sanguino from the Marlin dir to C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware -I am not sure that is required in my case but I figured rather safe than sorry- I read it on the Marlin readme. I click verify / compile lots of stuff compiles, then it exits on this error: ------------------------------------------------ C:\Users\gregh\AppData\Local\Temp\cckUzsAr.ltrans26.ltrans.o: In function `eeprom_read_float': C:\Users\gregh\AppData\Local\Temp\arduino_build_862144\sketch/UltiLCD2_hi_lib.cpp:29: multiple definition of `eeprom_read_float' c:/program files (x86)/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/4.9.2/../../../../avr/lib/avr6\libatmega2560.a(eerd_dword.o):(.text.avr-libc+0x0): first defined here c:/program files (x86)/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/4.9.2/../../../../avr/bin/ld.exe: Disabling relaxation: it will not work with multiple definitions collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status exit status 1 Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560 ------------------------------------------------ I have a feeling I need to do a lot of configuration before building, but thought I'd ask before embarking on some long journey. Maybe there is something more fundamental I am getting wrong. If the answer is "suck it up you're got to do some more reading to do" then I can accept that, but right now I need to know how far the destination is and whether I am heading in the right direction Thanks, Greg Looks good. I would ask @amedee or @tinkergnome for the last details. Without Amedee help I would had much troubles to build BCN3D Sigma firmware when doing some easy moding for my new printer. The part that I never understood right is that some marlins need an old arduino, others a specific one and etcetc. So maybe is just a matter of using the correct arduino version for it.
  7. Well yeah on a 3dprinter forum, of a printer that uses marlin, after asking how that affects, OFC I’m talking about the jerk definition on Marlin. Not gonna be talking about space rockets or how to make chicken parmigiana. Haahahhaha
  8. Specially at the start of the video the Y angle smooth rod seems to wooble. I would make a closer video to the shaft entrance on the printhead (slowmotion iPhone can show wonders) and if it woobles I would ask to the reseller to fix that.
  9. So when ordering a Glass plate is important to ask the reseller the ship date of the stock glass and to avoid old stock.
  10. Hi @neotko, can you explain this a bit more? What's that "automatic interpolation" the stepper driver is doing? Some links to more information about this? A stepper has X number of steps to do a full revolution. um2 x/y uses 200 steps/rev 1/16 mode makes 16 microsteps between each step. That allows to make more accurate position (let's call it just resolution for example, but isn't exactly that) TCM2100 and other stepper models have automatic interpolation, that happens only when a slow movement is done. So for example when the head is making a jerk move, and the speed slows downs, the interpolation creates 1/256 moves (theoretically more resolution) on the slow movements, increasing the position accuracy and making slow prints more precise. And this happens on the stepper driver, the sine waves (input of data) are automatically processed and it creates interpolation points from each 1/16 step to create 256 microsteps. That makes corners more smooth without any intervention from the planner. Basically, it prints better, it makes less noise (because TCM steppers are super silent). So.. How does it helps this situation? Not much, except that since jerk moves, are done at slow speeds, the interpolation allows more smooth moves on that areas, making the corners look more sharper (if you have a trained eye to see that) and makes curves more smooth. Think of it as a Bipolar pixel scale, it creates fake pixels that are an interpolation of the original data, making the image enlarge look smooth, instead of just full pixels. It doesn't actually make resolution since the data from the planner is still 1/16 but it allows to smooth the movements instead of doing rough 1/16 moves. The other issue at play is the cpu load of the planner, if it can't keep up to read more gcode lines, it stutters, failing to keep the speed and failing to 'plan' ahead. And that creates visible errors because you can't stop extruding suddenly and the filament keeps going and without the planner being able to move x/y there's sudden micro stops that create print errors. So yeah. A good cpu for the printer is important to avoid bottle necks when trying to print heavy detailed corners or just to print faster.
  11. The idea is an automagic tool to generate the layers height or there’s any manual control planned?
  12. Yea, buy other hotend, buy a more powerfull PSU, use custom firmware. After a few months all will work but will print like crap because both hotends will leak. Then google Mark2, upgrade hotends to UM2, buyin 2 of all, then you can enjoy a dual system, but ofc since the firmware works for um2 screens you will need a um2 screen for 40-80€. Also you will need to change many parts and learn a lot. Is a fun travel, there's no easy way. Have fun!
  13. Most probably your bed bearings (flanged square bearings) are just bad quality . Check this post https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11123-z-axis-layer-error?page=last Cleaning will help for a time Made a manual to clean the Z https://www.youmagine.com/designs/z-screw-cleaning-manual-for-um2-umo But most probably you just have bad quality bearings. I had to change all shafts and flanged bearings of my 3 umo+ to get good quality. I bought Misumi CF (cost effective is half of their expensive price)
  14. That can be easily the path planning or a difference on bed level. Avoid filing a nozzle, it can be done sticking a file paper, (if the bed is perfectly level) and moving the head x/y slowly with pronterface. Most brass nozzles flat area last 4-6months, then they start to get small curves on the edges. That’s why I prefer to use ruby nozzle, it stays the same shape after year+++
  15. Wow thanks for this answer. Very useful indeed. Having a particular board that you have used make me feel a little more confident about that. When you say swap Extruders 1 & 2. It is actually Y stepper that I need to swap with E2. Is that what you meant? Is there any difference in these controllers (like current ratings) Heatsinks are already ordered because all of the stepper controller chips (and surrounding board look a little brown. I also have an a spare board from my other UM2 which had an intermittent fault (freezing) and was replaced under warranty. Who knows maybe installing heatsinks & extra cooling on that one would make it useable again. Also I possibly could have turned my current down a lot because I typically run my printer relatively slowly. Swaping Y for E2 Should work right away just changing the Pins.h Yhe only that is more tricky is the Z because it has a physical switch for the 1/8 - 1/16 microstepping. About current they work more or less all at 1200, never had an issue at 1200-1250 but some lower the Extruder at 1000-1100 to avoid heating issues in summer (I prefer to just install a reliable heatsink). UM3 fixed this heat issue by flipping the Board and adding a elastic-adhesive-sticky Foam that sits behind the steppers and makes contact with the aluminium dibond, working as a heatsink for the board steppers. Adding fans won't hurt, but will add noise ofc.
  16. Viewpoints are always interesting indeed. But having the software that was working, working is also interesting for the users. Philosophy won't make the printer work, downgrading the firmware on the other side will until S3D or UM do something.
  17. Does the topic exist? I copied the link, used cut and paste and every other trick I could think of to get on it. Even switched browsers..... Indeed it does but weird it doesn’t work linking it
  18. Ironing/neosanding depends highly on how much flat cone is around the nozzle hole. Some hotends/nozzles dont have flat area or have too much. That’s what will impact on how it works. A no flat area nozzle will need more passes to ‘scratch’ the surface and a nozzle with flat cone will need less passe sto scratch/flatten the irregularities of a top layer. Printer itself won’t make much difference but the nozzle used.
  19. Offsets are saved on a temporal folder on the olimex. They can be removed by restore factory or going ssh and swimming into that
  20. Wow lost all my answer.. Long story short Check how brown is your stepper. Rebuild marlin, edit pins.h table and swap extruder 1/2. That should work indeed Install heatsink for chip 2 300 for an atmega with old steppers isn’t worth. Get for that price 3 china board. Some sellers even made a stepper option (to install silent chips for example) http://s.aliexpress.com/ZRvArMnM but doing this will need extra cooling I have not tested this one but I do have 2 china um2 boards that used for a year and a half without issues, except that sometimes they install the molex plastic in reverse. Just check ever positive/negative before turning it on and should be fine. Also test before leaving feedback on aliexpress so you can ask for refund/replacement if the board fails. @tinkergnome maybe your firmware allows to swap 1/2 ? Maybe I remember wrong
  21. You should be able to downgrade the firmware using the old files https://ultimaker.com/en/community/52037-downloading-old-um3-firmware-where?page=last#reply-193156 Download tar and sig (signature) and follow the usb update instructions https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/23129-updating-firmware I don’t have a um3 anymore but in theory that’s how to do it
  22. Indeed they are for both extruders. Since they sell a machine that uses both extruders equals, they don’t have a Marlin (on the printerboard) that allows differebt esteps for each extruder. A hotfix could be to use the search & replace postprocess to add the esteps gcode after each T0 or T1. But not sure if you can actually save all the settings / plugs on a profile or work job, so it might get quite tedious to do that every day. On S3D you could do that, but since last um3 firmware update S3D default profiles fails and probably s3d will have to update their profiles.
  23. I would check if the X/Y are properly squared. On umo this is done like this: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20910-align-print-head The part to just check doesn't exist on youmagine, only the other versions that 'click' on the shafts. But the process basically it's the same. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38300 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/adjustable-axis-alignment-tool https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-xy-axis-square
  24. jedi.json should be there, unless they changed something on last versions editing the hex, even if you do it right, won't change the esteps value because the a20 olimex rules over the printerboard (white um2-3 board).
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