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  1. I've installed the BONDTECH feeder last week. It works fine. The only issue I had in the beginning, was that the small Gcode program didn't SAVE the new E-step setting in the EEPROM (it worked just for one print). Using Tinkergnome's "Motion Settings" solved the problem. I think, the BONDTECH feeder is a better choice than the UM 2+ - extruder.
  2. @anders olsson Hi Anders Many thanks for your excellent video. You have a fine technique of measurements. I know, mine has to be improved and is at the moment below scientific standards. There are a lot of interesting informations in your video (e.g. the effective temperature in the nozzle ant the effect of the fans). The critical point seems to be (and is in my case) the small distance between the left corner of the "Olsson block" and the heater bracket. If i got it right (at 4'43" in your video), you rounded your block at this corner somewhat. I'm thinking about this too; it shoudn't ma
  3. Sorry, there is an error in my last posting: The comment 1) in the table should read "It takes ca. 10 seconds until the Pt100 senses that the heater is on"
  4. Hi gr5 Thank you for the feedback. I'm sorry for the poor labeling of my table and wasting your time. My first idea was, to produce a graph and do the proper labeling there, but the multiline graph function in the actual Excel is quite fussy when you are not used to it. So I stopped and presented that „quick and dirty“ table. To your questions: - I've just heated the nozzle again (during 3 min up to the "error point" (218°C). The green terminal block for the heater had 31°C (measured with an IR-Thermometer) at the end of heating. When touching with a finger it didn’t feel hot. I’m not surp
  5. Hi izzy Thank you for your comment. My situation is quite different: All this heating tests, which I posted above were WITHOUT the two product cooling fans running (NO extrusion too) made. The only fan running was the small hotend cooling fan. Even heating test with the double fan bracket removed (this to make changes on the hotend easier and to make sure, that there is no heat transfer to the bracket. As far as I see it at this moment, I have a problem whithin the motherboard, maybe a deteriorated electronic component in the heater power supply. Kind regards Paban
  6. Hello again, Thanks a lot to everybody who gave me feedback to my questions. This forum is extremly helpful und many people do a fantastic job here, even a the weekend. I did my homework today and made some further checks und measurements at the printer. Here the results: 1. There were no loose connections at the mainboard (and it didn’t produce smoke or carbonisation so far…). By the way: There are no fixing screws anymore. For the heater cables there are clips (nasty ones, you should have 3 hands to attach/detach the cables); for the Pt100 sensor, there is a female Dupont plug. I attache
  7. Hi Swordriff Thanks for your quick and helpful answer and the refresher of my physics (a long time ago, not to far from the middle of the last century I knew that too ;-D ) As I hate to approach the PCB again (with this cable chaos, specially to put it careful all together at the end), I'll wait until the 35W heater arrives and then measure the resistance of all three. So it takes some time until the community will hear about that. Kind regards from Switzerland Paul EDIT: I just measured the resistance of the new (spare) heater. The multimeter shows 24 Ohm. So, the heating capacity shoul
  8. Hi dim3nsioneer Thanks for your quick replay. The heater cartridge is rather thight (hard to push in). The sensor isn't "loose" too. I have no heat conducting paste available at the moment. As soon I get some, I'll try it. wish you a nice weekend Paul
  9. Hi Anders Thank you for your quick response (and I still like your mod very much...). I forgot to mention, that I had the fan bracket NOT mounted during the heating tests. The firmware version is 15.02.01 Do you have any comments to the 35W heater (I have already ordered one from Swordriff) ? I wish you a nice weekend Paul
  10. Hello everybody A few days ago, I changed the standard UM2 heater block against the custom block designed by Anders Olsson. The disassembly oft he hotend and the reassembly went quite good. The heating element was easy to remove from the UM2 block; the Pt100 sensor was somehow fixed. After some heating oft he block with the soldering iron it got out too. Both parts didn’t show any deformation from the fixing screw. I started with a 0.6 mm nozzle and the parts printed with PLA at 210°C and 50 mm/s pretty good. Later on I changed the nozzle with a 0.4 mm E3D nozzle with the goal to run some t
  11. Hi Labern I'm interesred too in your project. I'm awaiting delivery of an Olsson block. The present fan system is suboptimal for printing small parts (if you print only one small part like the famous "Marvin"). When Ultimaker decided to stop dual extrusion for the UM2, they should have offered at least an optimal single hotend (which I would even pay for). At the moment it looks, like UM2 product development goes towards customers (I remember the statement of Sander van Geelen; of course he didn't say this in my words ;-D ). But "tinkerers" can be quite innovative and successful. When a sat
  12. Thanks to all for your comments, specially for the tips for printing voronois. Kind regards from Paban
  13. @Kilian Thank you again for your answer and the pictures. Kind regards from Paul
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