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paban

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Everything posted by paban

  1. I've installed the BONDTECH feeder last week. It works fine. The only issue I had in the beginning, was that the small Gcode program didn't SAVE the new E-step setting in the EEPROM (it worked just for one print). Using Tinkergnome's "Motion Settings" solved the problem. I think, the BONDTECH feeder is a better choice than the UM 2+ - extruder.
  2. @anders olsson Hi Anders Many thanks for your excellent video. You have a fine technique of measurements. I know, mine has to be improved and is at the moment below scientific standards. There are a lot of interesting informations in your video (e.g. the effective temperature in the nozzle ant the effect of the fans). The critical point seems to be (and is in my case) the small distance between the left corner of the "Olsson block" and the heater bracket. If i got it right (at 4'43" in your video), you rounded your block at this corner somewhat. I'm thinking about this too; it shoudn't make a problem. I would like to find your comment about that. I'm going to modify the mount of the bracket to lower the whole thing ca. 2 millimeters. My bracket is damn tight and since the screw holes are already on the edge, I have to elongate the attachment. The bracket is looking nice, but i think it's suboptimal in fulfilling it's purpose. I received the 35W heating element from 3Dsolex and run some quick tests yesterday. It seems to perform quite good. The temperature overrun when approaching the set temperature is below 5°C which is acceptable. The temperature controller does quite a good job. I'm planning to post some results, when I have made the planned modifications. Kind regards from paban
  3. Sorry, there is an error in my last posting: The comment 1) in the table should read "It takes ca. 10 seconds until the Pt100 senses that the heater is on"
  4. Hi gr5 Thank you for the feedback. I'm sorry for the poor labeling of my table and wasting your time. My first idea was, to produce a graph and do the proper labeling there, but the multiline graph function in the actual Excel is quite fussy when you are not used to it. So I stopped and presented that „quick and dirty“ table. To your questions: - I've just heated the nozzle again (during 3 min up to the "error point" (218°C). The green terminal block for the heater had 31°C (measured with an IR-Thermometer) at the end of heating. When touching with a finger it didn’t feel hot. I’m not surprised, when some folks have a problem there. When Ultimaker assembled my machine, they were just pushing the heater cables in the clamps, without any cable end sleeves. I’m not an electronics specialist, but I think this should be good manufacturing practise (even for a hobbyist). It’s quite difficult to attach it in this state anyway. It’s hard to see, if there are loose tiny wires whithin the loose isolating fibres. On my picture oft he mainboard, you can see, how it looked in the beginning ! I have changed that when I detached the cables the second time. - My installed firmware version is 15.02.1 - Yes, you were quite right in your insistency about an existing heat loss to the fan bracket (very good coaching, Sir !) I ran yesterdayday in the beginning a nozzle heat up without the bracket, which gave samewhat better values than I had last week (!?). I checked then the hotend / bracket geometry very careful. When I touched the bottom oft he bracket at a nozzle temperature of 200°C, it wasn’t very hot (about 40°C). I’ve no idea how it looks like on an unmodified UM2 (I obeyed the warning sign ;-D ). The distance between the bottom of the Olsson block and the surface of the bracket is ca. 1.5 mm. The smaller Allen wrench which Ultimaker supplied (1.5 mm) just got underneath. But on the side wall, between the nozzle and the left side fan it was non touchable hot ! It turned out, that there was very little or almost no space between the block and the bracket. I didn’t recognise so far, that Anders block is not only higher, but 1.4 mm wider than the UM2 nozzleblock. Since the bottom of the bracket has a slight „V shape“ (reduction from 35 to 31 mm wide) things became very thight. When I widened the hole for the nozzle to a diameter of 10 mm. I left the center oft he bore unchanged, just to prevent contact of the nozzle with the bracket. So, when I centered the nozzle, I had moved it even a bit closer to the metal wall. So, that was my mistake. Today I widened the hole ca. 1.5 mm towards the other (unused) nozzle hole. With some bending of the two bracket connectors it was possible to create ca. 2 mm distance at this critical place. This helps quite something as the new heating table shows. The „old“ heating element (which was checked in these measurements) is still not able to reach a block temperature of 250°C, so an exchange oft this part seems to be mandatory. I would like to see, how the heating curves look like on other UM2 printers (modified/unmodified. The easiest way is doing that by recording a video (good idea from Anders). I’ll install the 35W heater from 3dsolex as soon as it will arrive, test it and post the results. My goal is to print with higher melting filaments like ABS, Nylon and PC. The E3D nozzle assortment provides new opportunities with viscous polymers. Many thanks to you and everybody who gave me valuable information and advice. Frankly, I think the UM forum is the best thing Ultimaker has to offer ! It’s a great source of information. I’ll try to contribute useful information too. Kind regards Paul
  5. Hi izzy Thank you for your comment. My situation is quite different: All this heating tests, which I posted above were WITHOUT the two product cooling fans running (NO extrusion too) made. The only fan running was the small hotend cooling fan. Even heating test with the double fan bracket removed (this to make changes on the hotend easier and to make sure, that there is no heat transfer to the bracket. As far as I see it at this moment, I have a problem whithin the motherboard, maybe a deteriorated electronic component in the heater power supply. Kind regards Paban
  6. Hello again, Thanks a lot to everybody who gave me feedback to my questions. This forum is extremly helpful und many people do a fantastic job here, even a the weekend. I did my homework today and made some further checks und measurements at the printer. Here the results: 1. There were no loose connections at the mainboard (and it didn’t produce smoke or carbonisation so far…). By the way: There are no fixing screws anymore. For the heater cables there are clips (nasty ones, you should have 3 hands to attach/detach the cables); for the Pt100 sensor, there is a female Dupont plug. I attached a picture of my mainboard. 2. I measured the resistance of the original equipped heating element: 27 Ohm (so it delivers 21 W, which seems a bit low) 3. The voltage at the heater terminal is 24 V (and remains constant during heating up, until the error message occurs). 4. I measured the resistance oft he Pt100 sensor too and got 110 Ohm at 25°C (which is OK). I’ve added a temperature compilation of my two heater elements compared to the values out of Anders video (Thanks Anders !) Anders seems to have the best part of the three (and he deserves it !) If my spare heater is not at the low end oft he usual power range, it should be able to deliver the necessary heat (IMHO). So I hope to receive a comment from an Ultimaker electronics specialist , what might be wrong here, and if it’s possible to connect the heating element to the unused heater terminal 2 and what arrangements are necessary to do that (is it necessary to modify the firmware ? I think, the temperature sensor has to be moved to the terminal „TEMP 2“ in this case ). Kind regards Paul [media=1240][media=1239]
  7. Hi Swordriff Thanks for your quick and helpful answer and the refresher of my physics (a long time ago, not to far from the middle of the last century I knew that too ;-D ) As I hate to approach the PCB again (with this cable chaos, specially to put it careful all together at the end), I'll wait until the 35W heater arrives and then measure the resistance of all three. So it takes some time until the community will hear about that. Kind regards from Switzerland Paul EDIT: I just measured the resistance of the new (spare) heater. The multimeter shows 24 Ohm. So, the heating capacity should be OK for the new part (which doesn't perform well too). So it doesn't explain what goes wrong.
  8. Hi dim3nsioneer Thanks for your quick replay. The heater cartridge is rather thight (hard to push in). The sensor isn't "loose" too. I have no heat conducting paste available at the moment. As soon I get some, I'll try it. wish you a nice weekend Paul
  9. Hi Anders Thank you for your quick response (and I still like your mod very much...). I forgot to mention, that I had the fan bracket NOT mounted during the heating tests. The firmware version is 15.02.01 Do you have any comments to the 35W heater (I have already ordered one from Swordriff) ? I wish you a nice weekend Paul
  10. Hello everybody A few days ago, I changed the standard UM2 heater block against the custom block designed by Anders Olsson. The disassembly oft he hotend and the reassembly went quite good. The heating element was easy to remove from the UM2 block; the Pt100 sensor was somehow fixed. After some heating oft he block with the soldering iron it got out too. Both parts didn’t show any deformation from the fixing screw. I started with a 0.6 mm nozzle and the parts printed with PLA at 210°C and 50 mm/s pretty good. Later on I changed the nozzle with a 0.4 mm E3D nozzle with the goal to run some test prints to compare the modification with earlier results. So I run the extrusion rate test (3 – 10 mm3/s) at 210°C which delivered a comparable result (up to 7 mm3/s enough extrusion), although I expected it somewhat better. Then I ran the same test (all with red PLA from DUTCH FILAMENT) at 230°C. This was quite a short test: 3 mm3/s printed fine, but at 4 mm3/s the printer stopped already with the „Heater Error“ message ! I remembered that I have read in this forum, there is a safety function in the firmware, which stops the printer, when the temperature increase is too slow, when the heating is on. After cooling the hotend down, I started the „Heatup nozzle“ function with a temperature set to 240°C. At 230°C the „Heater Error“ occured again (which could be reproduced with further tests). I checked the hardware, if something went wrong during the alteration. Results: the heating element and the Pt100 sensor were both correct inserted; the nozzle didn’t touch the fan bracket (I had widened the nozzle opening to 10 mm). I checked too the connection of the two heater cable ends to the mainboard which was also OK. So I concluded that the heating element might have reached almost the end of its lifetime (with only ca. 200 printing hours so far; I got the UM2 in this february). The next step was connecting my spare heating element to the mainboard and the hotend and comparing the heating curves. The new heater has some more power, it heated during 125 seconds fro 25 to 220°C (the „old“ one needed 146 seconds). It can just hold a temperature of 250°C, but when it’s supposed to reach 260°C, it stops at ca. 252°C with the already familiar error message ! All this heating tests were done without extruding. These tests with the new heating element puzzle me quite much: - How about printing ABS and other high melting polymers ? - Is the new heating element just at the low end oft he power specification (whatever this is) or what else has to be blamed for this poor result ? Any ideas and comments from the members are very welcome. I have noticed, that 3dsolex offers now heating elements with 35 W (the standard one has 25 W). Who is already using this more powerful heater with what results ) Many thanks in advance for your comments and your time taking for that from Paul
  11. Hi Labern I'm interesred too in your project. I'm awaiting delivery of an Olsson block. The present fan system is suboptimal for printing small parts (if you print only one small part like the famous "Marvin"). When Ultimaker decided to stop dual extrusion for the UM2, they should have offered at least an optimal single hotend (which I would even pay for). At the moment it looks, like UM2 product development goes towards customers (I remember the statement of Sander van Geelen; of course he didn't say this in my words ;-D ). But "tinkerers" can be quite innovative and successful. When a satisfactory shroud will be made of metal I'll order one too. Kind regards from Paul PS. When a lately removed the shroud, it gave me a hard time, since it was "glued" to the nozzle by ca. 1-2 cm3 of leaked (?!, I have no clear idea why / how it got there) brownish plastic mass. I had to remove it with the aid of a soldering iron.
  12. Thanks to all for your comments, specially for the tips for printing voronois. Kind regards from Paban
  13. @Kilian Thank you again for your answer and the pictures. Kind regards from Paul
  14. Hi newbie I'm quite new with my Ultimaker 2 too (started printing in february). Maybe you have really a problem with the switches. My own (little) experience: This error message is quite unspecific. With my own machine I had this message twice so far, To my relief the real problem was (in both situations) that the feeder didn't deliver any filament to the nozzle. The filament was rasped down und couldn't be transported to the nozzle. Recently a moderator confirmed, that this error message will be removed in a new firmware version, since it was usually misleading. So have first a look to your filament and take it out (Apply the change filament procedure; maybe you need pliers to help the feeder to draw back the abraded filament. ). Hope I could give you some help and you can solve the problem with that. If I have a problem with my machine, it's most often with the feeder ! Good luck, and succesful printing wishes Paban
  15. @ Kilian Thank you for your quick and comprehensive answer. There is just one point missing: What temperatures will develop during a longer print in a "housed" UM2 ? I have the background of this question specified in my comment to the tread "Real bad chewed filament" where moderator "gr5" mentioned, that a quite hot stepper motor (for the feeder) may lead to failure of the feeder when the filament throughput is low. In the meantime, I've found the contribution "Housingcover Ultimaker 2" in Youmagine. His design seems to work too. It's not complete closed (like yours), so it won't get to hot (?). The Kühling Brothers have even installed a water cooling system for their RepRap Industrial in the (closed) build chamber to protect the printer system from overheating. For me it's not necessary to post pictures of the dry box and the housing. Your description is good enough. But informations about chamber temperatures are very welcome (from other members too !) Kind regards from Paul
  16. Hi printers Ich habe mit die DLink Webcam DCS-942L angeschafft. Sie verfügt über ein Gewinde am Gehäuse und kann damit an einem Photostativ befestigt werden. Dies erlaubt, die Kamera nach Bedarf (je nach Bauteil) zu platzieren. Die Kamera hat einen Einschub für eine microSD-Karte, worauf man in zeitlichen Abständen Bilder Speichern kann. Die Bildqualität ist ordentlich, aber nicht auf dem Niveau eines guten Smartphones. Wer über ein "arbeitsloses" Smartphone mit Kamera verfügt, kann dieses einsetzen (geeignete Apps dafür sind in den App-Stores erhältlich). Einen guten Platz für die Festmontage am UM2 habe ich noch nicht ausgemacht. Allzeit gut Druck wünscht Paban
  17. Hello everybody The discussion above is quite interesting and I got some important informations about the feeder system from it. In this context,, I just wonder, what maximum temperature within the building chamber is acceptable. I just found, that Kilian Sinz in his tutorial recommends housing the printer completely (which would be for ABS printing quite useful and help to reduce the smoke problem). I have tried once to print the Klein Bottle masterpiece from "Dizingof" with its tons of retracts (using magenta PLA from Ultimaker). I had for this print job the printer front closed with a sheet of plastic foil and covered the top with some cardboard strips, just allowing the bowden tube and hotend to move freely. That was working fine in the beginning, but the extrusion got lower and lower and after ca. 5 hours of printing, the machine stopped with: ERROR STOPPED, X or Y-switch stuck. To my relief I found out, that the feeder had just churned the filament almost completedly (as a newbie I am learning by doing and consulting this forum). Any comments from the community concerning the temperature question and experiences with a housed printer are very welcome.
  18. Hello S.Ki Thanks for this interesting and extensive testing results. Since there are various (often contradictionary) recommendations - specially concerning print bed adhesion- available, I started myself some testing (in a little scale). As a newbie (just about 160 print hours on my UM2) i feel quite comfortable with PLA in the meantime. My recommendations: - KAPTON tape for smaller PLA parts (parts with a large contact area stick very intensive on the tape and are even after good cooling very difficult to separate from the print bed) - for large contact surfaces I use 3DLAC (a modified hair spray developed by a Spanish cosmetic firm). This too gives a very good adhesion and it is easier to separate the part as from KAPTON tape. When its very difficult to separate, then it can be washed away, which helps very good (the water goes appearantly between the part and the adhesive through capillary action). When no wash is needed, the coating can be used at least 5 times. Just one quick spray coating is necessary. Don't spray to much ! Maybe that ordinary hair spray would be as efficient when you use the right product (since nobody in our household uses hairspray, I didn't like testing various products ... ) My results with the STAPLES glue stick (from ULTIMAKER) were no good and I don't use it anymore. This is in contradiction to your recommendations. My own tests with a PEI plate were not quite successful, so I don't use it anymore. My next steps include ABS and TAULMAN Bridge (I would prefer nylon over ABS due to the nasty ABS fumes and its interesting mechanical properties). I have the following questions to you: 1. You wrote in your tutorial, that you supply the dried nylon from a "Dry Box". Could you specify this somewhat (what kind of jar do you use for the filament, do you use silicagel in the jar ...) or place a picture in the forum ? 2. I'm interested too, how you constructed the housing for the UM2. I was thinking about that too, but had no good idea so far, how the free moving of the bowden tubing could be achieved. Did you measure what temperatures arise during a long printing process ? I had some doubts about overheating of the stepper motors or the endstops too. Many thanks in advance for your information and I wish you happy Easter holidays.
  19. I had this error message "...stuck" 2 or 3 times (with 66 print jobs so far). After checking the hardware, shutoff and new start, each time the printer worked afterwards OK again !? I think it's one of these very unspecific computer error messages which just ask for a reset of the hardware (?). I'm a newbie (with a 6 weeks old UM2) too and couldn't localise specific problems. The printer works still fine with usually good results (unless I'm experimenting with new filaments and various printplate coatings). Any thoughts / experiences from the experts are very welcome
  20. Hallo miteinander Bin auch noch neu hier und habe meinen bestellten UM2 noch gar nicht verfügbar. Als Rentner habe ich erfreulich viel Freizeit und daher nutze ich die Wartezeit um mich durch Literaturstudium und "Googeln" geistig und seelisch schon mal aufzuwärmen. Einen kleinen Input möchte ich zur Filamentdicke geben: 3mm ist so etwas wie eine Nennweite und nicht eine Ultimaker-Spezialität. Effektiv sind es 2.85 mm mit etlichen Mikrometern Toleranzen (hochpräzise Extrusion dürfte nicht allzu einfach sein). Es wird deshalb allenthalben empfohlen, mit einer Schiebelehre Mass zu nehmen und das effektive Mass(d. h. den Durchschnittswert an verschiedenen Stellen des Filaments, welches auch leicht oval sein kann) in Cura einzugeben. Obwohl ich keinerlei finanzielle Vorteile davon habe, würde ich jedem Neuling die folgenden Bücher empfehlen: 1. Christian Caroli, REPRAP-HACKS, 3D-Drucker verstehen und optimieren (Franzis-Verlag). Wenn Ihr jetzt die Augenbrauen hochzieht, kann ich das gut verstehen: der Buchtitel ist recht irreführend und unpassend, da nicht spezifisch gewisse Modelle diskutiert werden sondern eher Allgemeingültiges behandelt wird. (Übrigens: Auch die Ultimaker stammen vom Reprap ab). Mir ist beim Lesen einiges klar geworden, was ich zuvor nicht richtig verstanden habe, obwohl ich technisch "vorbelastet" bin. 2. Ebenfalls empfehlen kann ich das Buch von Florian Horsch, 3D-Druck für alle (Hanser-Verlag). Eine eigentliche 3D-Druck-"Bibel" und m.E. ein Standardwerk für den Einstieg. Natürlich hat es nicht für jedes Problem ein fertiges Rezept aber es wird in beiden Büchern enorm viel Grundlagenwissen vermittelt und die Anschaffung kann als gut angelegtes Lehrgeld angeschaut werden. Sobald meine Wartezeit für den Ultimaker vorbei ist, werde ich mich wieder mit meinen persönlichen Erfahrungen und "Fehltritten" melden und gewonnenes knowhow gerne weitergeben. Paul
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