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Everything posted by skinny-kid

  1. I saw brianmichalk's post about printing the mask from Long Live Your Smile link here : https://longliveyoursmile.com/3d-printable-mask-for-covid-19/ I downloaded the files they created and the idea and shape seem far superior to the N95 design that was released earlier. However I did not like how they popped in the piece, since it seems to compromise the ability to seal off that part of the mask. I made a design change that incorporates the grid from the snap in piece into the mask itself. The snap in piece has been altered slightly as well. To assemble, place filter into mask
  2. The mask design definitely needs work. Huge gaps and hard to conform so air flow is restricted through the filter section. I have to stay home from work for 2 weeks (MA USA shutdown except for essential businesses) so I may play with designs. The file for the design I made is here. Print out twice and rotate 90 degrees to one another when putting in mask Mask Filter.stl
  3. I Just registered using NA as company name since I don't have a company. Have my UM2 test printing mask parts now. I designed a new filter for the honeycomb piece since retractions were killer on printing with the original. Created piece that was half the height of original. Created slits same dimensions as sizing of hexagons so can take two discs and place in mask at 90 degrees to one another (if that makes sense). Parts print 7 minutes faster than original with almost no retraction needed. I may have access to 2-3 more Ultimakers if needed.
  4. Welcome to the forum and all I can say is AMAZING! I am looking forward to watching your project progress and can't wait to see the finished product!
  5. Can anyone give some insight into the print heads? Is the nozzle an integral part of that unit? Can the nozzles be changed or do I need to put a whole new print head in? I am curious since a new AA or BB head is priced at $114.95 here in the US. If I need multiple nozzle sizes, that gets really pricey fast. Especially if there is an issue/clog etc and the head becomes useless.
  6. Anyone have input on the diameter being 2.98 at worst? As long as its under 3.00 will it get through the bowden tube?
  7. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience using Orb Polymer's PLA? They are a newer company based in Texas, USA and they offer a range of colors in PLA at a very reasonable price. They had no tech detail about dimensional tolerance of their 3.00 mm filament and so I contacted them. This is the reply I got: "Orb Polymer 3.00mm ABS/PLA 3D filament, is extruded at 2.93mm, range would be 2.88 to 2.98mm which will run on most Ultimaker 2 3D printers. Orb Polymer is in the process of extruding true 2.85mm spec Range 2.80mm to 2.90mm PETG HP (High Performance) and this will be available
  8. Mostly Battlefront with my two boys these days.......been keeping an eye out for this Ghost recon Wildlands
  9. @ultiarjan - Any chance you recollect your printer settings for this filament? I have a small spool of this stuff and am hoping to use it sooner than later.
  10. How old is the filament? I have had problems from Colorfabb filament that was old and had gotten brittle. I had ordered some filament and it came from an old batch from the supplier. They had it in their warehouse for almost a year apparently before shipping and I was able to confirm with colorfabb about the production date . It snapped repeatedly as I tried to use it and Colorfabb sent me a new roll. The new roll printed with no problems.
  11. Do you have the file so we can take a look at what it is you are trying to print? Not sure what support is supposed to look like. From the picture my guess is that you have raft enabled instead of brim, which will affect how support is generated.
  12. Yes once I had better settings to use.....,4 mm nozzle is no good. lol It does smell nice when you use it! I haven't played with sanding or staining or a flame on this stuff.......yet
  13. The Corkfill is great to use. I haven't found any other advantages other than the look of the finished product. I wanted to see how it looked as opposed to PLA etc. I like playing with the exotic filaments and am hoping to try a few post finishing techniques to see how it turns out.
  14. Version 1.0


    I took Geoffro's HD bust of Groot and sliced it to get a larger print of his head. Printed in Corkfill from Colorfabb. Print is straight off printed with no post processing and finish is great. Robot in 3rd image is to give you an idea of scale. Thanks to @Labern for his input after I was dealing with clogs. He recommended nozzle size of at least .6 and increasing flow and disabling retraction. Used .8 nozzle with 10% increase in flow and was able to keep retractions on.
  15. 12 hours...... that's how long the ptfe coupler lasted before it had a deformed ridge and caused severe under extrusion. I started having the issue around 12 hours of printing so I removed filament and did a few Atomic pulls. Reloaded filament and it never made it out of nozzle as motor tried to move it through. Pulled print head apart and found small ridge had formed that impeded filament! Replaced ptfe and now waiting for carbon fiber that's supposed to arrive today. Nozzle looks fine!
  16. Version 1.0


    Once again printing out @StarJeff model of the EE-3! Moved scope attachment location on the barrel to make it easier to fit a standard 4 x 20 scope. Different color scheme with this one that my son decided was the one he wanted. Black PLA that was painted except for stock. Stock printed in Proto Pasta annealable coffee filament.
  17. I have prints that using a .4 mm nozzle gives me rough overhangs but using a .6 or larger does not.....must be amount of support related from layer thickness below or something along those lines I would guess.
  18. Okay I will admit it, I love the exotic filaments and have wanted to print this for a while. First time I tried it I was using a ptfe that had been used a bit and a .4 mm brass nozzle. The filament never made it out of the nozzle and I dealt with a clog that killed the ptfe and the brass nozzle. Time passed and the filament stayed on the shelf...... I was fortunate enough to get shipped a .4 mm titanium nozzle from a member here to test run. I installed the nozzle and a new ptfe (other worn from carbon fiber prints recently) and ran 1/2 a spool of Colorfabb shining silver pla through it w
  19. In Cura under Tools check "Print one at a time" instead of "Print all at once" This is influenceed by the height of your print. If objects are too tall then this option may not be available. edit - assuming you are using Cura that is.....
  20. Anytime I print any wood filament with a .4 nozzle I get a clogged nozzle. I have printed with .6 and .8 mm nozzles successfully, keeping retraction on and upping flow to 110% at 210 C and .2mm layers.
  21. Made Solid is based in CA and makes their product in the USA 3DOM is based in North Dakota and makes their filament in the USA Fbrc8 is based in Tennessee and carries Faberdashery and other filaments Printed Solid is based in Delaware and carries colorfabb, proto pasta, taulman etc Proto Pasta is based in Washington state and make a variety of specialty filaments I have ordered from all of these companies. I have yet to use Matterhackers but they are based in the USA as well and just started a line of their own filament. Hope it helps
  22. Birthday gift for my son......the EE-3 [print=3149][/print]
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