skinny-kid
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Posts posted by skinny-kid
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I saw brianmichalk's post about printing the mask from Long Live Your Smile
link here : https://longliveyoursmile.com/3d-printable-mask-for-covid-19/
I downloaded the files they created and the idea and shape seem far superior to the N95 design that was released earlier.
However I did not like how they popped in the piece, since it seems to compromise the ability to seal off that part of the mask. I made a design change that incorporates the grid from the snap in piece into the mask itself. The snap in piece has been altered slightly as well. To assemble, place filter into mask and then snap piece in to lock filter in place. Getting ready to test print now but posting files in case anyone wants to try or to modify. Stay safe!
Printing with following:
.6 nozzle
40 mm/s
no support needed
no raft/brim
100% infill
Cura estimating 4 hours 23 minutes using 7.51 meter (59 gram)
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13 hours ago, SandervG said:
That sounds amazing. If you have a file you can share that would be lovely!
The mask design definitely needs work. Huge gaps and hard to conform so air flow is restricted through the filter section. I have to stay home from work for 2 weeks (MA USA shutdown except for essential businesses) so I may play with designs.
The file for the design I made is here. Print out twice and rotate 90 degrees to one another when putting in mask
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I Just registered using NA as company name since I don't have a company. Have my UM2 test printing mask parts now. I designed a new filter for the honeycomb piece since retractions were killer on printing with the original. Created piece that was half the height of original. Created slits same dimensions as sizing of hexagons so can take two discs and place in mask at 90 degrees to one another (if that makes sense). Parts print 7 minutes faster than original with almost no retraction needed.
I may have access to 2-3 more Ultimakers if needed.
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Welcome to the forum and all I can say is AMAZING! I am looking forward to watching your project progress and can't wait to see the finished product!
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Can anyone give some insight into the print heads? Is the nozzle an integral part of that unit? Can the nozzles be changed or do I need to put a whole new print head in?
I am curious since a new AA or BB head is priced at $114.95 here in the US. If I need multiple nozzle sizes, that gets really pricey fast. Especially if there is an issue/clog etc and the head becomes useless.
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Anyone have input on the diameter being 2.98 at worst? As long as its under 3.00 will it get through the bowden tube?
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I was wondering if anyone has had any experience using Orb Polymer's PLA? They are a newer company based in Texas, USA and they offer a range of colors in PLA at a very reasonable price.
They had no tech detail about dimensional tolerance of their 3.00 mm filament and so I contacted them.
This is the reply I got:
"Orb Polymer 3.00mm ABS/PLA 3D filament, is extruded at 2.93mm, range would be 2.88 to 2.98mm which will run on most Ultimaker 2 3D printers.
Orb Polymer is in the process of extruding true 2.85mm spec Range 2.80mm to 2.90mm PETG HP (High Performance) and this will be available online in a week. Initial Orb Polymer PETG HP colors Black, White and Clear."
Thanks
Orb Polymer Customer Service
Assuming the roll comes out at 2.98 mm, will it fit through the bowden tube? Seems problematic, especially with the "most Ultimakers" part of the response.
Thanks in advance
SK
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Mostly Battlefront with my two boys these days.......been keeping an eye out for this
Ghost recon Wildlands
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@ultiarjan - Any chance you recollect your printer settings for this filament? I have a small spool of this stuff and am hoping to use it sooner than later.
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How old is the filament? I have had problems from Colorfabb filament that was old and had gotten brittle. I had ordered some filament and it came from an old batch from the supplier. They had it in their warehouse for almost a year apparently before shipping and I was able to confirm with colorfabb about the production date . It snapped repeatedly as I tried to use it and Colorfabb sent me a new roll. The new roll printed with no problems.
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Do you have the file so we can take a look at what it is you are trying to print? Not sure what support is supposed to look like. From the picture my guess is that you have raft enabled instead of brim, which will affect how support is generated.
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It's smells nice when you print with it
You can darken bits with a flame like my cannon and it's more soft then PLA is what I have found.
It's a nice use of the filament @skinny-kid
did you find corkfill easy to print with?
Yes once I had better settings to use.....,4 mm nozzle is no good. lol
It does smell nice when you use it! I haven't played with sanding or staining or a flame on this stuff.......yet
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Nice! How did you like Corkfill?
Does it have any other additional advantages of why you would use Corkfill?
Or solely the look of it?
The Corkfill is great to use. I haven't found any other advantages other than the look of the finished product. I wanted to see how it looked as opposed to PLA etc. I like playing with the exotic filaments and am hoping to try a few post finishing techniques to see how it turns out.
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[print=3295][/print]
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12 hours......
that's how long the ptfe coupler lasted before it had a deformed ridge and caused severe under extrusion. I started having the issue around 12 hours of printing so I removed filament and did a few Atomic pulls. Reloaded filament and it never made it out of nozzle as motor tried to move it through. Pulled print head apart and found small ridge had formed that impeded filament!
Replaced ptfe and now waiting for carbon fiber that's supposed to arrive today.
Nozzle looks fine!
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I have prints that using a .4 mm nozzle gives me rough overhangs but using a .6 or larger does not.....must be amount of support related from layer thickness below or something along those lines I would guess.
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Okay I will admit it, I love the exotic filaments and have wanted to print this for a while.
First time I tried it I was using a ptfe that had been used a bit and a .4 mm brass nozzle. The filament never made it out of the nozzle and I dealt with a clog that killed the ptfe and the brass nozzle.
Time passed and the filament stayed on the shelf......
I was fortunate enough to get shipped a .4 mm titanium nozzle from a member here to test run. I installed the nozzle and a new ptfe (other worn from carbon fiber prints recently) and ran 1/2 a spool of Colorfabb shining silver pla through it with no issues. Did an atomic pull and all came out clean and ready to go.
I was intending to run several rolls of Proto Pasta's anneable carbon fiber filament through the nozzle (that stuff is wicked by the way!) but as the mail seems a bit slow lately and it won't arrive til tomorrow, and I have the patience of a sparrow.......the stainless steel has made its way into the machine.
Always run the robot first.
Print Settings:
220 degrees
.2 mm layer
45 mm/s
Shell thickness .8 mm
Second print is underway. Nozzle showing no signs of wear and this stuff feels abrasive when you hold it.
More to follow.
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In Cura under Tools check "Print one at a time" instead of "Print all at once"
This is influenceed by the height of your print. If objects are too tall then this option may not be available.
edit - assuming you are using Cura that is.....
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That was excellent!
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Anytime I print any wood filament with a .4 nozzle I get a clogged nozzle.
I have printed with .6 and .8 mm nozzles successfully, keeping retraction on and upping flow to 110% at 210 C and .2mm layers.
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Made Solid is based in CA and makes their product in the USA
3DOM is based in North Dakota and makes their filament in the USA
Fbrc8 is based in Tennessee and carries Faberdashery and other filaments
Printed Solid is based in Delaware and carries colorfabb, proto pasta, taulman etc
Proto Pasta is based in Washington state and make a variety of specialty filaments
I have ordered from all of these companies.
I have yet to use Matterhackers but they are based in the USA as well and just started a line of their own filament.
Hope it helps
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That's remarkable MA-Bob!
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Birthday gift for my son......the EE-3
[print=3149][/print]
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Never use cheap filament, it's like cheap beer.
At the moment the only ones I use are Faberdashery and ColorFabb.
Have had good prints from the range of filaments from these suppliers. It's good quality good tolerance and gives good results.
The cheap import stuff from Amazon seems to cause a lot of problems so steer clear is my advice.
The guys and girls at both Faberdashery and ColorFabb are easy to talk to both on the phone and email, and Faberdashery have always included a small free sample .
What he said! Cheap filament is nothing but a headache......
Printing in One Direction
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted · Edited by skinny-kid
Good day, it has been a long time since I was active or used my printer. I am dusting off my UM2 and have some new filaments to try out. I am using an older build version of Cura 15.02.1 which has worked very well for me over the years. My question is the a way to go about having the print done in the same direction? How to have the print head travel the same path from start to finish? I am not looking to spiralize the model as I need it to have structural rigidity (it is a storage box). Thanks for any help.