skinny-kid

Count me in as another person interested in your design. Excellent work you have done thus far!

Thanks Rigs Moving Wall thickness to .4 and adjusting model size seems to have remedied the problem. Thanks!

Good day Been working on a few things for the Christmas holiday and have encountered an issue that haven't seen before. Normal view for cura shows entire model as it should be, later view shows something very different. Modeled in Maya, exported as stl, checked in netfabb. Other designs I have done do not show this. Any ideas? Wall thickness is set to.8 .4 nozzle speed at 40 100% infill. Pics explain it better

Bold Machines Mr. Walthersnap Colorfabb Olympic Gold Nozzle at 220 Heated Bed at 60 .1 layer height speed at 50mm infill at 25% Primed and then painted with golden acrylics. Still a little work to do SK

Yes, Thanks! I received my mail yesterday as well!

Wicked! Thanks for the chance to let my mind wander Swordriff! p.s. - not a clue why my name can't get tagged...

Well I am gonna guess that it is the result of a new filament you are beta testing and it does not work with the Stainless steel coupler you have been using. What's the filament? Hairfill I am guessing.....you were printing a toupee for a cousin in Sandy Blonde color, but it keeps failing. That is the best result so far.... Or its brass turnings from the lathe?

Northeast USA here....supposed to be a beautiful day but alas the clouds are currently hiding the sun! Taking my boys to hit golf boys and then a bit of house work and then printer maintenance. Have a good one.

Great work you guys have been doing! Looking forward to the release of this new nozzle (whenever that may be) so I can put it on my machine

I would also suggest using this as an opportunity to upgrade to the Olson heater block with i2k isolator. I can't recommend it enough for the ability to change nozzles easily!

Ugh sorry to hear about the headaches. By the looks of it your PTFE coupler was toast. Not sure if you needed to pull the whole apart (the temp sensor and heating cord are a PITA to get out of the original block unfortunately) but since you have I highly recommend purchasing the Olson block for your UM2. It makes nozzle switching a breeze and has a much better method of keeping the temp sensor and heater cord in place. I have almost no headaches since installing it except going through PTFE and Duptef couplers....lol Good luck man....let us know how it goes.

How many hours have you been printing? Have you checked the integrity of the PTFE coupler? It only lasts for a limited amount of time before deforming and causing issues with filament getting fed through properly. I have replaced mine a few times already (my machine has over 1500 hours on it so far) and after I replace it the machine runs like a dream again. This link will instruct you you how to do it. http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/56-replacing-the-ptfe-coupler Let us know how it goes and if this remedies your issue.

It will also benefit you to read and read and read some more. There are numerous threads here that deal with a host of problems that can and will arise. Read everything on this site to start with http://support.3dverkstan.se/ Go through the forums religiously. Education goes a long way.

Epic! Nice to see your forward progress.

Thanks....been running my UM2 almost non stop since I got it end of February.....easy to do in this workspace. :-P

My 3d getaway...... :-P

Well most of it he has written out here, but it was very nice to see a few things in person, especially for someone new to 3d printing. He showed me correct spacing for isolator and heat block, went over taking head apart, helped me get temp sensor and heater cartridge out of block, showed me how he levels the bed making sure springs were good and snug before getting bed level. We discussed gcode and how commands work (which is new to me). He also applied glue to the bed to show me how he does it. I was basically not putting almost any glue on. He put on a layer of Elmers wood glue and water (1:10 ratio) that looked thick but dried much thinner and almost clear. Prints stick very well this way. For a seasoned printer it wasn't probably anything new, but for me it was very informative. I also got to see the UM Go....man it's tiny! lol and his original UM. He also had an array of impressive prints that I got to look over. Our conversation also wandered into filaments and new products being released.....a 3d nerd's dream....lol Sorry been sworn to secrecy! :mrgreen: The man is a walking vault of info and it's always nice to know I have a chance to get spare parts/nozzles etc not too far from home.

Had the pleasure of getting my new Olson block and i2k isolator today and as an added bonus got to meet GR5 and talk to Swordriff on the phone while I was there. :-P GR5 helped me get new block installed and showed me a few tricks with my machine. The hole for the temp sensor was a bit too small so we drilled it out a tad and got it to fit nice and snug (no foil needed!) The heater cartridge slid in easily and both secured well with the lock washer when the screw was tightened down. Back home and printing with no issues. The design of this block is fabulous and I am thrilled at how easy it is to change nozzles. It is also nice to know that if needed the temp sensor and heat cartridge can be removed without too much headache. Highly recommend getting this block. I am looking forward to playing with the different size nozzles.

Printed Solid carries Colorfabb and is located in New Jersey. Unfortunately they are almost always out of stock of most colors. They do have Glowfill, black, white and infill PLA in stock. Just got to catch them at the right time if you're looking for colors. I have been ordering from Voxel Factory in Montreal. They have a larger color selection in stock and shipping rates/delivery times aren't too bad. I am in Boston area and get packages from them within 2-3 days. I think they are expected to get more stock from Colorfabb within the next few weeks, Haven't found US supplier of Faberdashery.....yet.

Colorfabb support helped me out and sent me a new spool of the translucent green PLA. Loaded it up and prints no problem :-P The bad spool was old (produced 2013) and had arrived unsealed. Using same setting as listed for the gray PLA above and have printed a few items already without any issues.

What settings are you printing at? Looks like your bottom/top layer thickness needs to be adjusted to .8 or greater. I experienced similar issues until I increased that setting to 1

Sure thing! Printing temp at 220 Bed temp at 60 Layer height at .1 20% fill Speed at 70 mm/s Printed Full size :mrgreen:

No snags or feeder issues. Pretty sure it is the green PLA since I am on the last hour or so of a 14 hour print using Colorfabbs shining silver. :-P The green is so stiff that if you try to straighten it without warming it to get it in the feeder, it breaks.

I am using the 2.85 mm filament. I have reported the issue to colorfabb with the details of what occurred. The green came in the box with no seal or wrap. The gray was vacuum sealed. Wondering if this may be a contributing factor.

The translucent green continues to snap. Was sitting by the machine this morning and suddenly "SNAP" and a piece came off the roll leaving the rest broken in the bowden tube/feeder! Extruder was in home position with most stress on bowden. I think I am switching over to the gray for a bit.....dang. p.s. - Wasn't printing when it happened. Had just turned the machine on and was getting file ready when it occurred.