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dodgrr

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Everything posted by dodgrr

  1. best guess is too many retractions have eaten thru your filament, when the knurled wheel pushes and pulls to many times on one area it starts to fall apart.. re slice it with less retractions after you change the filament out! good luck!!
  2. Looks like a bad Y stepper motor to me.
  3. re-summarization: dude. quit whining. You're so dead set on failure, you've nearly guaranteed it. Go download a copy of meshmixer, spend 2 hours watching tutorials on youtube, cut up the model and print it in multiple parts. My car doesn't get the advertised MPG. It's gonna be ok, (or not.) Your choice.
  4. I've never had PLA lifting issues, glue stick once a month seems to be enough residual grip.. are you just trying different substances on your print bed or has somebody previously indicated that salt water would work? Other suggestions: maple syrup beer milk rubber cement flour / water let us know what works best / how that cake turns out!!!
  5. Why yes, I am!! The pic you posted has dramatic underextrusion, can you see light through the nozzle after atomic pulls?
  6. clean your nozzle and knurled wheel yet?
  7. can you see light thru the nozzle after atomic pull? the knurled wheel will pick up little bits and lose its effective grip after grinding as well.
  8. have you tried a different USB port?
  9. Unless you turn down the temp in "pause" mode, your ptfe coupler will meet an early demise as a result.
  10. I've seen that effect when using cheaper filament, I chalked it up to diameter consistency. Swapping to a different brand fixed it for me, your results may vary
  11. Ok can we elaborate on cool stuff??? is it easy to set up! are you using the turntable! is the software reliable ???????? I came up with my own turntable / active camera rig, arduino based. The software works well, there's some quirks but thats sort of par for the course I think. here's the link to their demo download: http://www.david-3d.com/en/support/downloads
  12. you can try messing with the cooling option, if the print head has slowed down on the last few layers I've found it can melt the layers underneath and cause that kind of deformation. Good luck, keep us posted!!!
  13. I'm using david scanner, takes a little fiddling but cool stuff!!
  14. ah yes, the deltamaker!! nice print
  15. try turning the temp up and slowing down the print speed a bit, looks like the material isn't staying hot enough to bond.
  16. Version 1.0

    1,642 downloads

    Life Size Mockbat
  17. Thanks! Always some long division involved trying to figure out the sweet spot between print resolution and post processing efforts.. Thankfully toys are a labor of love! Here's a pic of it painted up, this beast was designed by the incredibly talented artist Paul Kaiju, and it will be displayed in the upcoming Designer Con in Pasadena if anyone wants to check it out in person. LIFE SIZE MOCKBAT:
  18. Is this uploaded in the print section? Beautiful print. Did you prime it? Are you also going to paint it? Thanks! and yep, it was painted with several layers of primer, a thin epoxy skin, lots of sanding and clean up involved.. I could have run thinner layers and avoided much of the post processing effort but at 150 hours plus already in the project, I figured getting the pieces scaled correctly was challenge enough.. The artist who designed it does indeed plan on painting the beast, I'll update here once it's wrapped up
  19. printed for a friend, broken into 9 pieces, approximately 150 hours at .2. About 2.5 feet tall when standing.
  20. little timelapse GoPro bracket I designed a few months ago, finally got around to getting footage of it actually printing itself: STL file is here if you want one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:689062
  21. weird apples to oranges comparison here, you'd need to print both solid or both hollow to get close to an answer, but I don't think that would be an accurate comparison either as one has a nozzle that's roughly %60 smaller than the other, finer woven filament may very well get you more structural rigidity. For the most part, more surface area = more strength.
  22. use a couple drops of CA glue, spread out thin with a razor blade. Fixed all my issues with adhesion. (ABS or otherwise.)
  23. ahh, gotcha. yeah the glue stick is a pain, I'm using an acetone ABS slurry to adhere to the bed, works great. I'm making silicon molds of the stuff I'm printing, then casting in resin. Some of the parts require extremely low tolerances as they have mechanical interaction with other stuff, I need to retain all the material I can to preserve the function.. I'd post some pics but the current projects are all in the "secret" phase, not really allowed to post anything publicly yet Get your hands on a roll of ABS and spray it down, you'll be glad you did!! edit: weird, I've found PLA to be more fragile in my experience. Would like to see a stress test performed on both side by side.
  24. try dipping abs, its kind of fun! ;)print looks great btw. I'm spraying acetone on abs, works like a dream. edit: is the pla melting off on your hand in that pic?
  25. Wait, I'm confused. Have you tried it? I print all the time, on average 6-8 hours a day my UM2 is running. Detail retention is darn important for the stuff I'm working on, dunking plastic in a solvent that immediately melts it results in detail loss. Yeah, its going to be shiny. If you took a cast made of ice and dunked it in hot water, it would be darn shiny. You'd also lose a ton of detail. Spray on acetone till it looks wet, let dry. done. 2.5 months in on my 1st can, daily use, still at least half a can left. most recently "shaxon" abs, works great, locally available in a bunch of colors. Dark colors seem to me more prone to white film as a result of the spray, all smooth out very nicely tho.
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