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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Infill failure

    yep.. normal for "really fast" infill speed settings.. Most of the time that really won't cause any problems if it does print like that..
  2. Stickyness, long printing and ABS

    Welcome to printing ABS.. Many factors come into play even the design of whatever you are trying to print. ABS shrinks more than PLA (twice as much I thought) as it cools. I ALWAYS use the glue stick and the brim feature turned on (10-15 lines) I also have built an acrylic enclosure for the UM2 to attempt to keep the heat in/drafts out. I've also needed to add ribs/holes or other features to my models to avoid thin/thick areas. Same applies for injection molding.. Different wall thicknesses can warp/bow,etc... real plastic parts too
  3. Thinking of getting a UM2

    I'd recommend looking at Fusion 360 from Autodesk... free for non-commercial or 30/month (or 300/year) for commercial use.. Much cheaper than Solidworks/Inventor,etc...
  4. I use the 3mm ABS from IC3D... Great stuff that feeds without problems.. and much cheaper than the stuff UM sells. As others have stated ABS can be difficult to get it to stick to the bed without warping during the print. I use the glue stick and the brim feature (10-15 lines) and can print 99% of the time without any problems. Worst part about the brim is you then need to trim it off which can leave some nicks/blemishes if you aren't really careful with the xacto knife. ABS is good for parts that need a bit more flex than PLA/higher heat resistance/won't dissolve with water/UV exposure. Other than that PLA is great.
  5. Lines on print with retraction enabled

    Isn't there some other setting that must be 0 in order for retract/z-hop to actually work/happen? Seem to remember seeing that somewhere just can't remember now..
  6. UMO Peek Isolator and Aluminium holder

    Its hot and does aid in some heat dissipation/thermal mass. Its also fairly easy/cheap to machine and dimensionally stable/corrosion resistant, lightweight, etc... Wood has no business being around any source of heat. Wood is a big mistake. Unless you like fires.
  7. Object failing - 3 times now

    yep.. looks like its coming loose off the print bed.. Try using the "brim" option in Cura..
  8. Self leveling/bed calibration?

    I thought the bed leveling was SIMPLE.. Just takes a piece of paper to slide between the nozzle/bed and done. Seeing that the price of an ultimater2 is "a bit high" I doubt they would want to increase it anymore. Those sensors aren't "cheap" by any means.
  9. Igus tribo-filament

    Never tried their filament but Igus is a great company with some great products in general. Their plastic bearings/linear slides are great and not too expensive
  10. Designing of 3D printer platform

    Ultimaker is open source.. just copy.... :-P https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2 Google images will show thousands of designs just by searching for "3d printer" or "xyz gantry" There are thousands of ways to design one.. Defining the requirements first can quickly narrow the options down.
  11. Autodesk Inventor user here..
  12. yes I do know that.. Just another step I have to remember to do.. I guess I'd like to see things like layer height/shell thickness,etc.. machine specific stuff (nozzle size/can stay in metric though.. No biggie.. mm dimensions don't just roll off my tongue as easily as others.. Just seemed like something that would be simple to do and just be a "cool they are thinking about other customers that don't deal in metric" But having dealt with other "open source" hardware/software I do know its not as simple as I make it seem.. I had nothing but problems trying to get TinyG to support Inches without bugs. Getting the Gcode to work with G20 vs G21 was quite a challenge for them for some reason.
  13. I know.. I know you all love the metric system.. :-P But some of us from the other side of the pond ALWAYS work in Inches. Just seems like it would be simple to have something in the preferences to set model import units.
  14. Manual bed heating (for vapor polishing)

    yeah I could just use a hotplate but figured thats all the UM2 is down there anyways I get my UM2 tomorrow and if I do try it I'll obviously watch for any signs of damage if/when I do try it. And if something happens.. well then I'll just print a new part Just saw a few videos of people using their heated beds on other machines and just thought "oh thats perfect.. why not"
  15. Manual bed heating (for vapor polishing)

    Thanks guys.. Don't have my machine yet (it just shipped today.. hooray).. Just trying to get all my ducks in a row so I'm ready.. I figured there would be a way.. Just didn't see it in any of the documentation.. The manual I found is really sparse.

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