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jean-luc

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  1. Salut, Je sais que ce post date un peu mais quelle sont tes retour d'expérience avec le PETG. Au final quelle et/sont les bons réglages si tu as pu faire des essais, et quel fabriquant pour quelqu'un comme moi qui n'en a pas encore acheté ? Merci d'avance JL
  2. Hello. I wouldn't mind to see your firmware. I did a UM2 replica with lasercuted frame and Arduino+Ramp. I will soon place a 2nd extruder (in 1.75) and a Z sensor. JLuc
  3. Hello, Very nice. Where did you find the part like printing head and contrôler, it looks like you have the UM2 mother board ? Did you used a CNC for the MDF ? Best
  4. Hello, Sorry for the late answear. The frame is 100% laser cutted. The shaft are from old broken fax or printer i found on a fablab. The aluminum is hand cutted and i had the motors from my reprap. I just bought the Z motor The files are in Ultimaker Github, you can download them for free. They are in STEP format that can be open and converted with Rhino. For the side and top i used Plexyglass (6 mm) for the frond bottom and back 2 layers of 3mm MDF, 2 layer allowed me to make "reservation" for hiding screw bolts etc... I have pictures explaining that if you want. For the bearing for exemple, i did use the engraving function on the laser cut as I don't have CNC. The part are assembled like "Ultimaker 1" they are square and not round so i had to redraw all the parts. Right now I'm thinking of replacing the Arduino Ramp with an Ultimaker Control Board, but I don't know if i have to replace everything or if i can keep my LCD, SD car reader and selection board. (If someone do ?) If you need more informations, feel free to ask me. Best, Jean-Luc Here are some more pictures : http://carrefour-numerique.cite-sciences.fr/fablab/wiki/doku.php?id=projets:update_d_une_imprimante_reprap_ordbot_hadron_en_ultimaker_like#conception
  5. Thank you 1) It is a "Decoupe Vinyle" in French, Vinyle cutter ? The Vinyl Printer Cutter (BN 20) you just need a vectorial file. 2) I found them in internet. The central one is an aluminium block (UMO size) and the side one are a perfect copy of the UM2 original side block. But i couldn't find the right spring yet and i think that i will really need 4 of them (i tried with plastic belt tensionner but i'm not sure it will work). The spring are 5mm inner diameter and 1mm thick. Yes i like it to
  6. Hi, I will say you are right Dibond and PMMA are very fragile, but you can still build a UM2 with some other materials. It take's time and some work but you can use a laser cut to do some carving in PMMA or MDF. I started to build a "UM2 like" fiew weeks ago with laser cut and to be honest it's not so easy. I had to redraw all the assembly as they are rounded instead of square. And it took's me some time and many tests with the laser cut. I found a way to do it as i really like the UM2 look and also the lightning and the white PMMA aspect. (not only ) For the front panel i used painted MDF (2 layers of 3mm + some laser cut carving) I wanted to use trespa but the laser cut didn't like it. (It's wood and resine but very hard and i could cut it with the trottec 300 as it's not fiber laser cut). Also PMMA is nice but fragile. For me what is good on the UM2 (Original one): Nice looking, The Z motor with lead shaft The aluminium plate with 3 screws The heated bed with glass. The lightning. The printing head with 2 fans and the bowden extruder. The software The printings quality. And the silent and compact size, compare to my RepRad Ordbot. So as gr5 said, the electronic is a good question. If i had the money, i wouldn't think about it and i will buy a UM2 mother board (this is the best way). Then you can make the "box" as you like. The linear bearings and shaft can be easely find in a local store or internet. I'm actually using an Arduino with Ramp and it took's me fiew days to configure the firmware...and I'm not done yet. Need more information concerning the Z home and Z : 0 (for printing start). Here is a picture of a broken PMMA test and of the MDF front panel. and of the printer now...not ready yet. I need to understand how the Z : 0 work I used a j-Head extruder with a laser cut support, just for test, i will soon change it for the original one. PS : I would like to thank's the Ultimaker team to allow people like me to use there sources and by being help-full in this forum.
  7. Hi, I'm using the Taurino and didn't tried yet with 24v but i bought it 2years ago from RepRapDiscount (i think that they sell but also make the board http://www.reprapdiscount.com) and it work fine. I used it on a OrdBot Hadron and now in my "UM2 Like" wich is not finished yet. Rumba look's good but i don't really know the diffrence. Is it as easy as the Arduino to configure and find the good firmware ? JL
  8. Hello, I would like to say thank you for your answears. And also to the UM team that made a great design and that gave the sources. (I really like the UM2 design, even if it might look simple, see picture in attchment) As i really don't have the budget now i'm using my Arduino + Ramp and I'm trying to configurate the firmware. I have some trooble on how to make the Z Axis going in the right direction. Maybe i should go to the Ramp section of the forum to ask this new question. Jean-Luc Here is a picture of the printer underconstruction (it wasn't so easy...)
  9. I think it should work ? For the PT100 i do understand that it's better but my thermocouple are working great or seams to (i think so)
  10. Thank you Daid I don't know if you can see in my picture that i already installed a 4lines screen. (So i did modified the drawing to fit my screen). Instead of buying a new one, and i did glue it to the "facade" ...ha ha... I saw that the heated bed on the v1.5.7 needed a "Relay". So i have now 2 options : 1) I stay with my Arduino and Ramp 2) I go for the V2. (And forget about the cheap v1.5.7 i saw on the web). Dade, just to know, the game could be installed in any Marlin with "full graphical screen" ?
  11. To jhertzberg : Did you meant "do not" instead of "do" ? I just had a quick look last night but Malin Builder look's great. I will try it soon. Thank you
  12. That would be so cool But i don't know how to do that.
  13. Thank you gr5. I have all i wanted to know and understand. So right now I have two solutions. 1 ) I stay with my Reprap component (i have a Marlin firmware and Reprap 100K Ohm NTC Thermistors that work great (i think) with Arduino Mega and Ramps 2 ) I change the Ramps for a Cheap UM1 V1.5.7 board I both cases, I should be able to install the UM Marlin in my Arduino, to make fully compatible with Cura.
  14. Have a look here : But i don't think that i works while printing.
  15. I'm learning a lot and I think that i understood. So it would be better to use PT100. But if i want to use my actual J-head (at least in the biginning) will it work with the UM2 V2 PCB or do i need to change the thermistors ? Is the V2 can work with "Arduino 4lines screen" ? An other option, I could stay using my Arduino with the PCB 1.5.7 installing on it the steppers from my ramps ? Will it work fine ? And correct me if i'm wrong in the V1.5.7 i can connect an heated bed ? Or do i need the heater board ? (As i have the Arduino and the 1.5.7 PCB is very cheap compare to the V2). And i have a 30A 12V power supply (With heated bed connection). Thank you. PS : Is Arkanoide working in the UM Original ?
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