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derek-bosch

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Everything posted by derek-bosch

  1. removing the 4.7k resistor fixed the thermal readings, and replacing the Arduino Mega seems to have resolved the motor issue. Still more issues to solve on this UMO, but slowly getting closer!
  2. assuming the FW is stored on the Arduino Mega board, I am still using the right FW. (haven't replaced the Arduino yet, but I have one on its way). I did verify that my new shield board does have the 4.7k resistors that my original shield board does not. I hope to get more answers over the weekend. Thanks for your help, Gr5!
  3. no, I didn't get a new arduino with it, just the 1.5.7 board. I also haven't updated firmware on it, so it might have UMO+ on it instead of UMO. I will try that later today. the extruder driver wasn't good, but replacing it on the old board didn't fix the issue. which is why I suspected the circuit board.
  4. I've been having issues with the extruder motor on my UMO. The motor seems fine, as it is driven fine when swapped with another driver (i.e. plugged into the Z axis). It doesn't seem like the stepper motor driver is the issue, as swapping the driver had no effect. So I think it is my main circuit board. I bought a replacement on eBay from China. Plugged everything in, powers up fine, but the temperature reading on the UltiController says 120 before I've even preheated. Trust me it isn't that hot out this is supposedly a 1.5.7 ultimaker board. curious if they might have a different thermal circuit? (thermocouple vs thermal sensor?) Really curious suggestions on what to try.
  5. anyone know the part # for the Ultimaker Original (UMO) Feeder Stepper Motor? Mine seems to be going bad
  6. I've heard some difference of opinion on exactly how to tighten the hot-end of an Ultimaker Original. The assembly manual says to have the nozzle flush with the aluminum block, and that the heat pipe above the block doesn't need to be flush, as long as both are tight. I've also heard the opposite, tightening the brass pipe so that it is flush, then tightening the nozzle. Which one is best? I'm still experiencing some extrusion issues, and want to get this right! -Derek
  7. after replacement of the thermocouple, and checking the filament (did snap test, filament held together), still having extrusion issues. suspecting the feeder again... *SIGH*
  8. fair enough. I will give it a try, but I've had similar issues with other spools as well
  9. this is a brand new spool of Ultimaker filament...
  10. thanks, Erin... your company has already mailed a replacement I really hope this solves the problems I've been having. The ONLY thing I haven't replaced in the hot end now is the heater itself...
  11. Using a temperature probe, the original thermocouple had wide swings of variance. Tried replacing with a new thermocouple, but the diameter of the thermocouple replacement was quite a bit larger than the hole in the aluminum block, so I can't get the sensor fully into the block...
  12. still having major issues, the feeder itself seems fine, can push filament without the hot-end in play... after I've cleaned the nozzle, atomic-pull, etc, a print will go fine for the first couple layers, then the print will get less and less dense until it finally stops extruding anything from the nozzle. I've replaced just about everything in my UMO hot-end. Nozzle, Aluminum block, PEEK, brass pipe, PTFE coupler... I'm wondering if my thermocouple might be bad - is there any way to diagnose this? it is just about the only thing I haven't replaced! really need help here, as I'm getting ready to chuck my UMO with a trebuchet
  13. I've been having loads of issues with my UMO lately... PLA plugs above the hot-end, mainly, so I ended up replacing the nozzle, PTFE coupler and bowden tube. switched to a Ultimaker PLA filament as well. But then I started getting massive under-extrusion... I can feed the filament fine by hand, without too much force. I've cleaned the knurled axel of the feeder... tightened the spring down to 11mm. still no improvement. curious if it is possible to over-tighten the spring? or other ideas of things to try...
  14. any plans for an upgrade for UMO and UMO+?
  15. well, the good news is that things seem to be working for now. I'm not exactly sure what the exact thing that fixed the problem... I did tighten the nozzle / brass pipe. I also installed a replacement fan for the nozzle. The prior one had broken and I had been running fanless for quite a while - I think this was main problem... Been running all weekend without a single jam. On the same blue filament that was giving me troubles. And a new spool of red which is working fine too. I probably will install a hot-end fan above the aluminum block as others have recommended. But happy to be printing again! Many thanks for all the advice and help.
  16. the advice to have the brass tube tight, and the nozzle a little lower seems opposite from the assembly instruction manual, but I will try it. I will also try a fresh spool of filament to see if my woes go away... hate to waste 25% of the spool though - time to invest in some larger nozzles
  17. I have done atomic pulls, both from the teflon connector / peak, and pulling all the way from the feeder
  18. I will double check this - I might have tightened the nozzle before I tightened the threaded tube... I assume both have to be done at hot temperature?
  19. Definitely that can cause issues - but you can feel that when loading by hand. I still think it's getting in the gap between bowden and teflon. me too, from when I take it apart. no plastic is in the peek or nozzle... just stops at the teflon connector...
  20. I will try this when I unblock it tonight. And I will post in the google group as well. Thanks for the help. One more data-point... I'm about 75% through the current spool. Had no issues for the first 50-60%... I wonder if the bend on the filament near the center of the spool might be contributing at all... And I completely turned off retractions... no improvement
  21. it seems to move easily... not sure how representative the S curve on the filament was - I had pulled it out by hand, and might have put the bend in myself.
  22. there is no visible air gap on between the bowden tube and the teflon connector... I will get pictures later this evening no obvious air gap. the plug seems to be contained in the teflon connector. the peek and nozzle are empty of PLA. I tried tightening the feeder spring to 11mm (it was over 13mm), and I trimmed 2mm off the bowden tube. Printed for about an hour and jammed again. I will try some different filament tonight
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