derek-bosch
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Posts posted by derek-bosch
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assuming the FW is stored on the Arduino Mega board, I am still using the right FW.
(haven't replaced the Arduino yet, but I have one on its way). I did verify that my new
shield board does have the 4.7k resistors that my original shield board does not.
I hope to get more answers over the weekend. Thanks for your help, Gr5!
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Those chinese boards are so cheap and not very good quality so it's always best to buy 3.
I don't know if they have a different circuit but I strongly doubt it. more importantly did you load the right firmware onto the arduino on the 1.5.7? You may have loaded the UMO+ firmware by accident which expects a different voltage from the thermocouple. Also you might have to remove a 4.7K resistor possibly. Some of the temp measurement circuits use a 4.7K pull up resistor but I don't think you are supposed to use that for the UMO circuit.
Also if the extruder motor is fine and the driver is fine it's almost surely the arduino and not the PCB as there isn't much circuitry on the PCB itself. So did you get a new arduino with that new 1.5.7 board?
no, I didn't get a new arduino with it, just the 1.5.7 board.
I also haven't updated firmware on it, so it might have UMO+ on it instead of UMO. I will try that later today.
the extruder driver wasn't good, but replacing it on the old board didn't fix the issue. which is why I suspected the circuit board.
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I've been having issues with the extruder motor on my UMO.
The motor seems fine, as it is driven fine when swapped with another driver (i.e. plugged into the Z axis).
It doesn't seem like the stepper motor driver is the issue, as swapping the driver had no effect.
So I think it is my main circuit board.
I bought a replacement on eBay from China. Plugged everything in, powers up fine, but the temperature
reading on the UltiController says 120 before I've even preheated. Trust me it isn't that hot out
this is supposedly a 1.5.7 ultimaker board. curious if they might have a different thermal circuit? (thermocouple vs thermal sensor?) Really curious suggestions on what to try.
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anyone know the part # for the Ultimaker Original (UMO) Feeder Stepper Motor? Mine seems to be going bad
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thanks, guys!
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I've heard some difference of opinion on exactly how to tighten the hot-end of an Ultimaker Original.
The assembly manual says to have the nozzle flush with the aluminum block, and that the heat pipe above the block doesn't need to be flush, as long as both are tight.
I've also heard the opposite, tightening the brass pipe so that it is flush, then tightening the nozzle.
Which one is best? I'm still experiencing some extrusion issues, and want to get this right!
-Derek
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after replacement of the thermocouple, and checking the filament (did snap test, filament held together), still having extrusion issues. suspecting the feeder again... *SIGH*
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I've bought "brand new" that sat on a shelf for a long time
fair enough. I will give it a try, but I've had similar issues with other spools as well
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What he said....do the bend test on your filament...if it snaps, it's old.
this is a brand new spool of Ultimaker filament...
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It definitely sounds like your original thermocouple was the problem to begin with, but it sounds like there is a problem with your new one too. Can you contact the seller about the replacement you bought?
thanks, Erin... your company has already mailed a replacement
I really hope this solves the problems I've been having. The ONLY thing I haven't replaced in the hot end now is the heater itself...
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Using a temperature probe, the original thermocouple had wide swings of variance.
Tried replacing with a new thermocouple, but the diameter of the thermocouple replacement was quite a bit larger than the hole in the aluminum block, so I can't get the sensor fully into the block...
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Do you have a contact probe temp sensor to verify that your nozzle is getting to the temperature the printer thinks it is? I recommend a contact temperature probe rather than a UV one for more accuracy.
The other way to test and see if it might be reading off is to see if raising the temperature makes a difference.
I don't, but I am getting one...
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still having major issues, the feeder itself seems fine, can push filament without the hot-end in play...
after I've cleaned the nozzle, atomic-pull, etc, a print will go fine for the first couple layers, then the print will get less and less dense until it finally stops extruding anything from the nozzle.
I've replaced just about everything in my UMO hot-end. Nozzle, Aluminum block, PEEK, brass pipe, PTFE coupler...
I'm wondering if my thermocouple might be bad - is there any way to diagnose this?
it is just about the only thing I haven't replaced!
really need help here, as I'm getting ready to chuck my UMO with a trebuchet
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I've been having loads of issues with my UMO lately...
PLA plugs above the hot-end, mainly, so I ended up replacing the nozzle, PTFE coupler and bowden tube.
switched to a Ultimaker PLA filament as well. But then I started getting massive under-extrusion...
I can feed the filament fine by hand, without too much force. I've cleaned the knurled axel of the feeder...
tightened the spring down to 11mm. still no improvement.
curious if it is possible to over-tighten the spring? or other ideas of things to try...
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any plans for an upgrade for UMO and UMO+?
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well, the good news is that things seem to be working for now.
I'm not exactly sure what the exact thing that fixed the problem...
I did tighten the nozzle / brass pipe.
I also installed a replacement fan for the nozzle. The prior one had broken and I had been running fanless for quite a while - I think this was main problem...
Been running all weekend without a single jam. On the same blue filament that was giving me troubles. And a new spool of red which is working fine too.
I probably will install a hot-end fan above the aluminum block as others have recommended.
But happy to be printing again!
Many thanks for all the advice and help.
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the advice to have the brass tube tight, and the nozzle a little lower seems opposite from the assembly instruction manual, but I will try it.
I will also try a fresh spool of filament to see if my woes go away... hate to waste 25% of the spool though - time to invest in some larger nozzles
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I fit everything so there's a 'less' than a milimiter of touching the aluminium (abit more) I fit it cold but without real force. Then when hot at 200 I hold the aluminium block and tight the nozzle (but not too much just a bit more). When I used the standard head I used to also hold the peek but that did over the change of 15 nozzles (4different ones a lot of times) I did end killing the alu block (so yeah don't over do it).
Btw did you try to atomic just in case? Just to remove the posibility...
I have done atomic pulls, both from the teflon connector / peak, and pulling all the way from the feeder
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One more thing - I can't tell in your pictures but you want the threaded tube that is in the aluminum block and the peek to be low enough such that you can't screw the main nozzle quite all the way up to the aluminum block. If the nozzle is touching the aluminum block that is bad because it means you have another space for plastic to flow into and you are also more likely to get a PLA leak. Although I don't think this is your issue as any plastic flowing out will be molten in that area long before the nozzle is up to temp.
I will double check this - I might have tightened the nozzle before I tightened the threaded tube... I assume both have to be done at hot temperature?
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int... I'm about 75% through the current spool
Definitely that can cause issues - but you can feel that when loading by hand. I still think it's getting in the gap between bowden and teflon.
me too, from when I take it apart. no plastic is in the peek or nozzle... just stops at the teflon
connector...
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By the way - did you have lots of retractions? didn't you already answer that? Sorry I didn't re-read everything. Each retraction moves heat upwards a little bit. Also longer retractions move it up faster. 4.5mm should be plenty.
Still I've never had this problem you describe. I'm thinking there is a tiny gap between bowden and teflon part. Did you put it together such that the 4 thumb screws are a few turns loose when you put the bowden in? You want the 4 screws loose by maybe 2 to 4 full turns and then lift on the bowden clip/holder while inserting the bowden. Then while still lifting, screw the 4 screws in slowly so the bowden is seated nicely onto the teflon. This will compress slightly any gaps that filament might flow into.
You know you got it right because then you no longer need the horseshoe shaped clip anymore - the force of the lifting bowden holds itself in place.
I will try this when I unblock it tonight. And I will post in the google group as well.
Thanks for the help.
One more data-point... I'm about 75% through the current spool. Had no issues for the first 50-60%... I wonder if the bend on the filament near the center of the spool might be contributing at all...
And I completely turned off retractions... no improvement
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it seems to move easily... not sure how representative the S curve on the filament was - I had pulled it out by hand, and might have put the bend in myself.
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You can tell if something is wrong because the bowden slowly slides up until there is an air gap easily visible when looking at the print head from the side.
Razor is fine - just make it very perpendicular and 2mm should be plenty - you can only take off 20mm or so before you need a new one (soon I will have some in my store gr5.org/store/).
there is no visible air gap on between the bowden tube and the teflon connector...
I will get pictures later this evening
no obvious air gap. the plug seems to be contained in the teflon connector. the peek and nozzle are empty of PLA.
I tried tightening the feeder spring to 11mm (it was over 13mm), and I trimmed 2mm off the bowden tube. Printed for about an hour and jammed again. I will try some different filament tonight
ultimaker original circuit board replacement issue - temperature reading 120?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
removing the 4.7k resistor fixed the thermal readings, and replacing the Arduino Mega
seems to have resolved the motor issue. Still more issues to solve on this UMO, but
slowly getting closer!