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  1. Your fanshroud looks nice! I still wonder, why the print started to look good with 260°c, when i got bubbles at 245°c? Too hot for bubbles? But, well, eh nevermind. The print is fine now Here are my Settings: As Sidenode, I never mentioned that I use an 0,6mm Nozzle, don't know how big the influence on the settings are. layer_height = 0.2 wall_thickness = 0.6 retraction_enable = True solid_layer_thickness = 0.6 fill_density = 50 nozzle_size = 0.6 print_speed = 50 print_temperature = 225 print_temperature2 = 0 print_temperature3 = 0 print_temperature4 = 0 print_temperature5 = 0
  2. So Guys, the print is done, thanks for your helping thoughts! First I tried lower "min Layer Time" prints, where one side actually looked perfect, but the other one sucked, because of the one sided fan?. Actually I wonder, why its recommend to print without fan? @ Labern: I remembered your statement, that you print XT with 225 degree and was confused, why do I print so hot. Because of the colorfabbs > 240°c recommendation on the box, I never thought about printing with lower temperatures and made more tests. Printed with 225°c, shorter Min Layer Time and more retraction then cha
  3. additional test. Same settings as last print with different temperatures 260°c looks the best?!
  4. good Idea! I tried that for the following Test prints All my XT prints were printed with enabled fan. My examples are printed with 30% and 50% fan. My Retraction Distance is actually really high, higher than recommened. It doesn't change the strining. Perhaps its too high and that causes my issues? (Retraction amount 4.5) Is Minimum Layer Time bad? Its the first time i observe what it does. Should I shorten the time, or increase it? In the Picture you can see the good surface near the Bed (about 1cm above bedlevel, the bad print starts). Travelspeed was already 250, dont know why
  5. Do you think that the minimum layertime will slow the print down to much? I tried your advice and printed a Tower next to it. Thats the result --> The print itself is better, but still the parts that are higher than 1 cm look bad. Even on the Tower! So my conclusion would be, the printing temperature is to low?! Near the Glasplate the print is also heated with the bed and if its to far away it gets to cold?
  6. Yes your right, I have an UMO+ with only 1 fan! BUT actually its recommended to print without fan and I can't understand why
  7. Hi, i have some overextrution problems (i think). If the printed section gets to small in "slicesize", then there are parts that are kinda overextruded or too hot? Like in this picture. The Bottom is ok, but on the smaller part, the color of the print changes and these weird parts arise. Settings 1: Then I tried the Cura standard settings for Upet and it got better, but still bad. And I don't really know what setting is need to change, never saw something like that, also in no print guides. :( Settings 2: Settings1: layer_height = 0.2 wall_thickness = 1.2 retraction_enable = True
  8. was genau schief gegangen ist, kann ich dir nicht sagen. Bevor du aber diverse Temperaturen ausprobierst, solltest über sowas die optimale Drucktemperatur/geschwindigkeit für dein Firmament rausfinden --> https://3drucken.ch/2013/01/optimieren-der-drucktemperatur.html Ansonsten schaut der Rand irgendwie komisch aus und teilweise verbrannt? Hab von ABS aber auch kein plan, hatte mein ersten abs druck nach 20 Minuten abgebrochen. Der Geruch ist einfach zu hart für Indoor :-|
  9. Der Wert für Deckel und Boden hat nichts mit der Linienbreite zu tun! Wie nah die Linien zusammen gedruckt werden, wird schätzungsweise über die Nozzlebreite definiert. Ansonsten wie du gemeint hasst, sollte man eine Wandstärke nehmen die durch die Düsenbreite teilbar ist. Und kein Problem, solche Gedanken sind ja wichtig damit man cura versteht und richtig einstellen kann
  10. Meinst du mit Oberer und unterer Oberfläche quasi den Boden und den Deckel? Weil damit hätte der Nozzle (gefühlt will ich es auch immer mit doppel 'o' schreiben) Durchmesser nichts zu tun. Eher was mit der Layerdicke. Was meinst du mit überschneidung? Die Überschneidung vom Infill? Wenn du eine Wandstärker von 0,4 setzt und eine 0,4 düse hast wirst du auch eine 0,4 Wandstärke bekommen.
  11. super cool, you're the hero of the month
  12. @ rpress: Recognized that too, earlier today. The Numbers disappear but the scaling is still applied Profile for that setting is a really good idea! @ IRobertl: Its really not that much (~ 0,5mm for 100mm). I printed a prototype and that thing didn't fit to the other part. Then I thought the printer is off and looked for calibration. After that I learned about the shrinkage of printed stuff Now I know what I have to keep in mind for designing stuff, but still its no work to apply the scale and get near 100% prints.
  13. Hi I wanted to compensate the shrinking and apply the scale accordingly. Then I recognized that Cura deletes numbers, after you set the second input field. For example 1,003 results in 1,0. It seems that it keeps the value and just stops showing the last digits. At first I thought it Rounds the values ... Don't know, its kinda confusing.
  14. Logo Danke! Wollte es eigentlich erst über die Skalierung in Cura machen, nur werden dort nach der Eingabe die Werte auf zwei Kommastellen gekürzt. Ich dachte erst das Cura die Werte rundet, aber ganz sicher bin ich mir da nicht.
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