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Posts posted by ooper

  1. Shafts are oiled regularly. It actually sounds like the noise is coming from the back right of the UM2. What is going on back in that area that might need maintenance?

    There are a few shavings sitting on top of the little motor thingee <-- highly technical term.


  2. After having playing with all the settings available and also resetting them as suggested and you still are having the problem, sounds like there is a good chance there is a mechanical problem, rather than a software/setting problem.

    I have been seeing this behavior as well and determined it must be a mechanical problem because I have two UM2's with identical settings. I have tried printing the exact same file on each one, and one prints nice and clean, the other prints with oozing. What else could it be if they have identical settings, are given the same print file, and are using the same filament (Faberdashery brown)?

    Any suggestions on what mechanical issues might be going on to cause this?

  3. I spray a little Dimafix onto the clean glass bed and its great for PLA@60c and ABS@100-110c(it's really only meant for ABS, but works great for PLA on a heated bed).

    It really locks the plastic to the bed, and only starts to release it once the bed temp drops below 40-50c. It also dissolves in water, which makes cleanup a lot easier than hair spray etc. I love the stuff, just ordered 2 more cans online last night which should do me for 6-12 months i think.

    It's about €15 a can, which is a little high perhaps, but it does the job well.


    Wow this stuff looks amazing. I will have to try it out. Do you have to clean the glass and re-spray for each print or can you re-use a spraying for a few prints?

  4. Does the BuildTak actually wear out somehow? Or can it be reused infitintively as long as e.g. not dammaged by a razor blade or similar?


    I suppose it would eventually wear out, but my guess is that it would take quite some time to do so. As long as you can get the print off successfully, it should last quite a while. The key to getting the print off is the first layer. You've got to have your spacing (bed-leveling) done properly. May have to experiment with your setup a little to find a good height. I have been using a business card between the nozzle and the print bed.

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  5. I have been using BuildTak now for about a month and have found that it solves all of my warping/non-adherence problems! I love the stuff. BuildTak also sells a nice tool/spatula to help with removal of the print. I use a razor blade to get started, then use the spatula. Have to be careful with the razor blade though as I have ripped a few BuildTak's with it so far.

  6. Thanks for your help here gr5. Usually in situations like this, there is either not enough "pain" being experienced by the community to warrant the time needed to fix/improve the algorithm or not enough pain being experienced by the people who have the power to make the change. I'm not bad-mouthing anyone. I am a software developer myself, so I know that the available resources are usually applied to where it makes the most business sense.

    It's just unfortunate for me that this issue and a handful of others have caused me to have to look elsewhere for my 3D printing needs. Don't get me wrong, I love the UM2 and will continue using mine, but it has been difficult keeping my three going. I suppose they are not really meant to be running 24x7x365 ;)

  7. I will try unchecking combing, although it seems like w/o combing I had trouble with the feeder grinding down the filament due to lots of retraction. Thanks for the suggestion though. I will let you know how it goes.

    Of course, a better solution would be more intelligent slicing to avoid moving across the print so frequently to do just a tiny bit of printing between each move. I don't understand the algorithms used to determine slicing, but there appears to be some room for improvement there.

  8. I have a model that is somewhat like a maze about 4" x 4". The model gets sliced by Cura in such a way that it is moving around WAY more than it should. It will print a little bit, then move all around the maze (following the shape of the maze) to another part, print a little, then move to another part on the opposite side of the maze and so forth. It just keeps moving back and forth across the maze printing a small amount before deciding to move again. Any ideas on how to remedy this? Why can't it do all printing it needs to do in one area and then move on to another area?

  9. I can't seem to fix a warping issue I am having. I have tried different nozzle temps, different print bed temps. I have tried glue stick. I have tried wrapping the printer up in a box to prevent "breezes". I have tried brim. I actually can't remember if I have tried raft or not, but I'd like to avoid raft if possible. Any other suggestions out there?

    Here are a couple of pictures.

    This one shows the warp. Bottom left of the print will not stay flat. The print is about 6.5 inches (16cm) x 4 inches (10cm) x 1 inch (2.5cm)


    This one shows the other side of the print with the entire bottom being flat, how it should be.




  10. Darn, it didn't work :( I set Platform adhesion type to "None" on Basic tab and then on Expert Settings, I set Skirt Line count to 15, Start distance to 0 and Minimal length remained at 150. It did the same thing as using Brim -- added lines to the interior holes rather than just around the outer perimeter of the object.

    Any other ideas?

  11. I have designed a perfectly square lid about 1/16" thick. See pic. In Sketchup, the measurements from corner to corner are exactly identical, i.e., a perfect square. When I print the lid, the measurement is not perfectly square. One corner-to-corner measurement is 20.5cm and the other corner-to-corner measurement is 20.3cm. This makes it so the lid does not fit into its spot very well.

    What would cause something like this? Is the printer not calibrated properly?




  12. I regularly do 30-50 Hr prints, and my main problem used to be jams, but now that i do atomic pulls with white pla, i can see when my nozzle is truly clean as opposed to having the right shape when pulling it out of the nozzle. but my main problem is the plastic tangling itself on the reel, if its new then sometimes it relaxes too much after it first unwinds, and some of the plastic goes over itself and tightens and this leads to layers getting skipped or the classic printing nothing, and then printing in thin air.

    1. make sure you have a clean nozzle, (really clean)

    2. Try and measure out how much material you will need and either cut it off the reel, and arrange it nearby so it doenst get tangled, (but i never do this, i just cross my fingers and try to make sure the material is not getting tangled but theres much much you can do to stop this especially if you are not around when its getting jammed.

    Thats it. good luck.

    Ive never restarted a print, and wouldn't recommend it especially if you are a beginner.

    All you would really need is a resume from sd card option and the lower head to unfinished layer option, other than that the other stuff is irrelevant in my opinion. As you are generally gonna get a weird layer there unless the height and posinion is identical to where it left off. If you cant pull these long prints off, then i would just print things smaller or lower res. bitty prints are a real dirty fix.


    I've just been printing for a few months now and I have not cleaned the nozzle. What do you do to clean the nozzle and get it "really clean"?


  13. Wow, thanks guys but modifying gcode and sending the printer G commands may be a bit beyond my pay grade right now :???:

    I will remember this though and most likely refer back to it when I am a bit more experienced with 3D printing.

    Here is what the UM2 needs (next version):

    1. A "resume interrupted print" option.

    2. Select the gcode file from the SD card.

    3. When prompted, manually position the buildplate and print head using the spin controller on the front of the UM2.

    4. UM2 determines which layer to start printing based on the position of the buildplate and skips to that spot in the gcode file.

    5. UM2 fine tunes the position of the print head to a corner.

    6. Printing resumes.

    Thanks again!


  14. Here are my print settings:

    Layer height: 0.1

    Shell thickness: 0.8

    Enable retraction: Yes

    Bottom/Top thickness: 1.4

    Fill Density: 20

    Print speed: 50

    Support type: Touching buildplate @ 45°

    Platform adhesion: None.

    All other settings are just the default settings that come with Cura.

    Here is a picture of the print. Notice the bumpy and uneven top of the alcove.

    alcove printed


  15. Hello,

    I am wondering if there are strategies/techniques for handling long print jobs?? I have projects that take 20+ hours to print. There have been a few times that a problem has occurred part way through the print, forcing me to lose huge amounts of time and PLA since the only thing I know how to do is scrap it and restart.

    Once or twice the print "skipped a beat" so to speak and shifted its print location a millimeter or two. Another time we lost power. Another time there was a PLA extrusion problem. I realize these are all problems to expect on occasion, but I am hoping to find ways to address whatever issue may arise during a long print job in order to minimize its impact.

    For example, is there free/inexpensive software available that can intelligently divide the project into smaller pieces/layers? Other ideas/suggestions?



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