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neiriow

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  1. Hi every body and thank you for your help. I didn't answer earlier cause I was overbooked, sorry ! I use the Exp4 and it works well ! (I understood the usage of 'pin numbers' and it's much easier to do modifications on the Ultimaker now. I'm a beginner you know ...) I ran autotune and find very different constants each time. It seems very unstable and it doesn't really improve the temperature regulation. Anyway It's not really important because the only consequence it's that at the beginning, the temperature goes 10/15 degrees upper than what I ask. Then it stabilized well at the good temperature. I was able to use the E3D hotend at 350°C without any problem with the Thermocouple and the 12V heater but when I decided to try to print with the heated bed (the E3D hotend working with PLA at normal temperature 210°C) the electronic board stopped and restarted. I thought it came from the fact I use too much power. I tried to change the PID heater current max to 64 as adviced by gr5 But the result is exactly the same. When both, the heater and the heated bed are working, the electronic board stop. I tried to connect the old 24v heater cartridge (Ultimaker's one) and it works without any electronic stop. I think the problem come from an instant power consumption over the circuit board limit. In fact the 24v 1/4 of the time (with 64 as a current max) may generate a very high instant power consumption. It works alone but adding the power consumption of the heated bed it may be over the circuit board limit. I ordered a new 24v version of the E3D heater so the problem should be resolved... Thank you for your advice. I'll try to use the E3D thermocouple for the moment. I just have one question : Do you think the Ultimaker's PT100 could mesure temperatures up to 400°C ? I can't find datasheets... Anyway I'm close to my goal now. I still have problems with E3D hotend cause the PLA doesn't come out the head regularly but maybe the problem comes from the feeds and I'll work on a new feeder to check...
  2. It seems I'm getting close to my goal. The thermocouple board give me a good voltage that correspond to the a coherent temperature. The heater 12v seems to work well too with the current max configured at 128. So now the only problem I have is that I don't understand how I can find the pin number I want to use for my TEMP_0_PIN. I'm trying to use the EXP4 port I found the +5V, the GND and want to input the signal buy the ADC12 pin for exemple. ADC12 correspond to the 85 pins on the ATMEGA2560 but it doesn't read the temperature when I configure this pin in Marlin. As I explained you before even for ports that are already connected I can't find the good pin number :
  3. @Macua85 Normally you won't have any modifications to do cause your UMO already works with a thermocouple. If it does not work with a thermocouple yet you should do as gr5 said : Yes you'll have to change the temperature sensor settings. It's true that it's very clear in the firmware. In the Configuration.h file (It's written in such a way that lot of simple configurations can be done in this file) section "Thermal Settings" you'll find : //=========================================================================== //=============================Thermal Settings ============================ //=========================================================================== // //--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table // //// Temperature sensor settings: // -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0) // -1 is thermocouple with AD595 // 0 is not used // 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup) // 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup) // 3 is Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup) // 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !! // 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup) // 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup) // 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup) // 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup) // 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) // 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup) // 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup) // 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup) // 12 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed) // 13 is 100k Hisens 3950 1% up to 300°C for hotend "Simple ONE " & "Hotend "All In ONE" // 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x // 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950 // // 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k // (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID) // 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup) // 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup) // 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup) // // 1047 is Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup // 1010 is Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard) // 147 is Pt100 with 4k7 pullup // 110 is Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard) #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 20 #define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0 #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0 You only have to change the #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 line as it's said in your case you'll have to select the thermocouple with AD595 using the code -1 (Instead of 20 in my exemple)
  4. Well, Thank you for all your answers !!! Now I know it's hard to connect the thermocouple directly on the "temp1" port. I won't loose time looking for this. I already thought to connect the thermocouple board to another port of the Ultimainboard. As you tell me the Exp 4 could maybe work but why not the serial port ? Does it matter which one I choose ? I also have difficulties to find the good pin number I have to use. I know I have to modify the part of the pins.h file in Marlin that correspond to the board I've configured in Configuration.h (I did the test to swap to pins number and it works). I suppose my issue come from the method I use to determine the pin I want : First I identify which port I'm gonna use on the Ultimainboard (For exemple I want to know the pin number of HEATER 1) Then I search which signal correspond to this port looking on the electrical schema of the port I've chosen (In this case PE4) Then I look which pin match this signal on the ATMEGA2560 electrical schema (PE4 is in front of the pin 6) In marlin I put this pin number in the line that match what i want to use the port for (#define HEATER_0_PIN 6) Following those step I should have by default 6 in this line of the firmware but I have 2 Instead. So I'm doing something wrong to identify this pin number but I don't know what it is... You're right it's one solution and I know I made a big mistake ordering a 12V version of the hotend kit. But now that I have it, I would like to find a way to use it for delivery time reason and money too of course. Why would limit the PID current max would be dangerous ? Do you think this max could disappear and the power could raise up to 160W instantly ? Thank you for the formula I wasn't sure it was linear. Here are the board specifications I have : The thermocouple board I've bought on E3D-Online Store http://reprap.org/wiki/ExtThermoCouple_1.0 So what I should do for the thermocouple would be : Connect the thermocouple board to a free port of the Ultimainboard Change the thermo sensor type in marlin (easy) And for the Heater : Connect the heater to the original heater 1 port of the Ultimainboard Change the PID setting dividing the P,I and D constant by the voltage ratio Run autotune About Autotune, I understood how it works (GCode that heat several times at a specific temperature) but I don't get how you have the new Kp, Ki and Kd values after the test. Is it automatically changed in the firmware ? Do I have to read them with a software (like printrun) ? I'm gonna work on this, thanks to your help, soon and give you a feedback then of course !
  5. Bonjour Amedee, Désolé c'est vrai que j'ai commencé par faire du cross-posting mais je pensais que les langues étaient séparées sur le forum... Je cherche à obtenir une réponse rapide et mettre le plus de chances de mon coté. L'anglais est probablement la meilleure solution car on touche plus de monde non ? Alors discutons http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10425-e3d-thermocouple-mount-on-umo/ !
  6. Bonjour à la communauté ! Je suis nouveau sur le forum et j'espère que je poste dans la bonne section. J'ai lu quelques posts sur le forum en anglais et en français mais je n'ai pas encore trouvé de solution à mon problème. N'hésitez pas à me rediriger si le problème a déjà été traité dans une autre section. Je suis étudiant dans une école d'ingénieur et je travaille actuellement sur un projet d'impression 3D pour des matériaux haute température. J'ai pour cela commencé par acheté une UMO+ que je cherche aujourd'hui à adapter. J'ai reçu 2 kits haute température bowden de chez ED3 Online (1 de diamètre 1,75mm et l'autre de diamètre 3mm) et j'essaye de les monter sur ma nouvelle Ultimaker Original +. L'objectif étant d'imprimer à des températures supérieures à 300°C, j'ai également acheté un Thermocouple avec la carte électronique qui permet de l'adapter sur l'Ultimaker (une v1). Je suis débutant dans le domaine et ne sais pas comment le monter sur la carte électronique de l'UMO+. Après avoir fait des recherches sur internet j'ai compris les choses suivantes (corrigez moi si c'est faux) : l'UMO+ a une carte électronique Ultimainboard v2.X.X La sonde livrée avec l'UMO+ est une PT100 (une thermistance qui permet d'avoir de bonnes mesures jusqu'à 300°C) l'UMO+ a besoin d'une carte électronique intermédiaire pour être connectée à un thermocouple. Parmi les capteurs de température préconfigurés dans Marlin, il y a une configuration pour un thermocouple avec la carte électronique AD595 (mais celle que j'ai achetée est une AD597A du coup je ne sais pas si la configuration doit être adaptée) Je ne suis pas sûr de comment je dois connecter la carte électronique externe du thermocouple à la carte de l'UMO+ et quelles modifications je dois faire dans le firmware Marlin. J'ai aussi un problème de voltage. J'ai acheté deux kits 12v alors que la carte de l'UMO+ fonctionne en 24v. J'ai lu sur ce forum que l'on pouvait adapter les têtes 12v sur la carte 24v en modifiant les paramètres PID du Configuration.h de Marlin. Si j'ai bien compris il faudrait baisser le current max de 255 mais je ne suis pas sûr de la formule qui me permettrait de calculer combien exactement (J'ai lu que pour adapter une cartouche de chauffage de 40W 12V sur la carte de 24v il fallait régler le current max à 95 au lieu de 255 mais celui que j'ai est un 25W de 12v et quand je règle le current max à 95 je mesure seulement 9V ) Merci pour votre aide !
  7. Hi to the community ! I'm new on the forum and I hope my post is in the good section. I read several posts without fixing my problem yet, so don't hesitate to redirect me if you think this problem already exist in the forum. I'm an engineering student working on a 3D printing project. I've bought a UMO+ and am trying to adapt it for high temperature printing materials. I received 2 E3D v6 hotend bowden full kits (one 1.75mm diameter and the other is 3mm diameter) and try to mount it on my new UMO+. My goal is to print at high temperatures (more than 300°C) and I decided to buy a Thermocouple with the v1 electronic board. I'm a beginner in 3D printing and encounter difficulties to understand how to do it. After reading lot of things on the internet I understood (correct me if i'm wrong) that : UMO+ works with v2.X.X electronics UMO+ works with a PT100 (thermistor with better capacities than normal thermistors) UMO+ needs a Thermocouple board to work with Thermocouple Marlin is prepared for Thermocouple with AD595 (but the external board i've bought is AD597A) I'm not sure how to connect the Thermocouple external board to the UMO+ PCB and what modification I have to do in marlin. I'm also facing a voltage issue. I bought the 12v version of the E3D v6 hotend full kit instead of the 24v (for the UMO+ electronic board). I read on this forum that I can adapt the PID settings in Marlin reducing the max current on the 0 to 255 scale for both the Heater cartridge and the new fan (that comes with the E3D full kit). But I'm not sure what formula I should use to find this maximum. (I read about a 40W 12V heater cartridge mounted on a 24v board with the PID max current of 95 instead of 255 but mine is a 25W 12V and I measure only 9V when I put the max at 95 in marlin) Thank you for your help !
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