niyoki

I wrote to igo3d so many times emails with a part numbers from Ultimaker assembly guide and they delivered my orders in two three days. Just info.

You can buy an Ultimaker Original it has same print quality. Then you can decide about ordering Heated bed kit or Dual Extrusion kit. But you must build yourself. I owned some 3d printers also from other manufacturer. In the and I'm the best manufacturer because I can put things better together. And I learnd much when I builded myself. Okay you need three days to put things together.

@Hanne here is shop where you can by: Alu cooler: http://www.reichelt.de/IC-Kuehlkoerper/ICK-SMD-A10/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=3&ARTICLE=113625&GROUPID=3381 and Special glue: http://www.reichelt.de/Waermeleit-paste-folien-scheiben/WK-709-5ML/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=3&ARTICLE=35418&GROUPID=3384

You Need Extended. If you want print art objects or statues for example Eiffel Tower, Statue Of Liberty and so many other tricky stuff. But overall Ultimaker Original kit, heated bed upgrade kit (if you print only with PLA you don't need this) and dual Extrusion kit (if you think one color is enough you don't need this too) together is the right choise if you can build it yourself. regards and have fun p.s. I forgot to tell you "WELCOME":) to the Ultimaker user friendly community Forum.

100 mm/s really fast. Do you get nice looking prints? Cura calculated estimate is right.

If you want learn so many things about 3d printing buy Ultimaker Original DIY Kit. All this machines has same printing Quality. But when you can build your Ultimaker Original you will get know how what you also Need for using other machines. If you have enough money, hobby room and you are comfortable take an Ultimaker 2 Extended+. But People talking also about Ultimaker will release one new machine this year. I own UMO+ but UMO is really right choice. good luck

Is in Cura 15.09.83 or 15.09.85 any setting possibility to use dual extrusion. Because I can't find any setting option where dual head can be activated.

Hier ist nun mein Erfahrung: ich bin mit Innofil immer erfolgreich gewesen, Colorfabb geht auch gut, aber Verbatim hat leider garnicht funktioniert. Es gibt halt mehrere ausdrücke für die begeisterung: Schlecht, gut, perfekt und mich interessiert eher das wort "interessant" (Mein Duden sagt interessant=ich kann damit nichts anfangen). Verbatim ist "interessant" (ich habe nichts gegen die Marke oder die Firma). Deswegen finde ich dein Druckergebnis sehr gut.

0.1 ist guter Start. Oder direkt Normal Qualität von Cura Print Profile anwenden. PLA oder ABS? Ultimaker Original druckt genau so gut wie Ultimaker 2.

Yes You understood right and gave nice answer is this Cura allready available now ? Because you answered my question really quick please answer me one more question. @neotko answered my topic because of an UMO+ with a Dual Extrusion Firmware what I prepared over a link and downloaded and installed. Is it okay or do you have somewhere any other Firmware.

@nallath, For example an Elephant stl when I split get four pieces; head, body, front foots and rear foots. How can I print like this objects with more than two pieces in dual extrusion? Or should I use another software like Simplfy3d or Repetier-Host (Before I used Repetier-Host with Cura slicing engine but on another printer. I do not know about the UMO+ settings under the Repetier-Host.

UniProject hier finden Sie Ultimaker Baugleiche Vertex 3d von Velleman ist auch ein Open Source 3D Drucker mit alle dafür nötige Zeichnungen. https://github.com/Velleman/Vertex oder K8200 oder 3drag http://reprap.org/wiki/3drag Mehrere Geräte teilen doch ähnliche Materialien. Gruss

@UniProject hier finden Sie Ultimaker Baugleiche Vertex 3d von Velleman ist auch ein Open Source 3D Drucker mit alle dafür nötige Zeichnungen. https://github.com/Velleman/Vertex oder K8200 oder 3drag http://reprap.org/wiki/3drag Mehrere Geräte teilen doch ähnliche Materialen. 500 Euro pro Stück ist nur realisierbar ab 10.000 Stück glaube ich (ohne großartige Gewinnmarge) . Wenn falsch bitte korrigieren. Gruss

Can I use Heater Cartridge from Dual Extrusion Kit (Normally for Ultimaker Original only) on my UMO+ (White Electronics PCB) with Dual Exrusion Setup or should I buy another heater. I allready ordered one Heater Cartridge extra for UMO+ but they delivered one which is thinner than what my UMO+ uses. It will not work with UMO+ Aluminium heating block.

Under Machine Settings you can see 205x205x200 mm print area. Your model file can't be more than this size. Allso do not forget Nozzle can touch right back glas retainer. You should also calculate with Skirt line (Default Setting in cura 3mm away from model) around an Object. For me X 195 Y 195 Z 200 mm is possible Yoru wrote 150 mm x, 150 mm y, 0.3 mm z but Dropbox Stl file is over printbed size. I scaled down to %0.9 Cura was able to calculate.

I downloaded your Model. It can't print because your Model is too big for my Ultimaker Original Plus print bed. You can see when your loaded Model STl file Looks Gray not Yellow it is to big or out of the print area.

@Tinkerpete, wie konnte ich das übersehen. Sorry...

Vielleicht passt auch? https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18969-am-anfang-eines-jeden-drucks-erstmal-kein-filament-einstellung-vor-dem-druck-schon-etwas-filament-fordern-lassen?page=1&sort=#reply-130695

Cura hat bis jetzt beste Stützstrukturen geliefert. Ich drucke sehr oft komplizierte Kunst Sachen da ist nichts mehr zu erkennen (Ich meine von entfernte stütz Strukturen spuren usw.)

Somit bleibt der Außenbereich schön aber auch der Innenbereich funktionell.

@Tinkerpete, Das Teil 180 grad umdrehen (von oben nach unten). Support oder sogenannte Stützstruktur vom Bett aus einschalten (dazu passt auch Brim oder Rand auch). Dann hast du brauchbare Teile. Supports nach druckende entfernen. Gruss

@Edel, In the gcode, look for the M104 command. Example: M104 S205 ; set temperature Then add it to the gcode produced from your slicer, after the end blocks, like this: ... G92 E0 M104 S200 ; set temperature G1 Z10.200 F7800.000 ... Set the correct temp based on the Z location from the command: G1 Z Add all temperatures to the gcode near the command to move to a new Z in the correct order as shown above. Link http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:211514

Today I saw from @gr8 very interesting topic. About bowden tube you can read there something interesting. I believed too long bed leveling has only with first layer to do, but I changed mine mind. Now I'm more happy wity my prints. I wait until first layer squished nice then let my printer go. If it isnt I stop, clean bed then start again to printing. Link to gr8's topic https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18970-us-buyers-i-found-a-good-cheap-bowden-tube-replacement?page=1&sort=#reply-130535 kind regards

@stefanRuth, from your link I downloaded this helmet. I checked with Netfabb Basic it Needs repair. But I print like this objects upside down (turn 180 degree in Z axis). If you mean with "Geo" (Scaling) to 50% yes it can get too thin walls good luck

I can see this because of the layer differences from bottom to the top. At the Moment I print with Innofil PLA at 220 degree. When I try to print with 210 degree same granular effect Comes out. good luck