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niyoki

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Everything posted by niyoki

  1. Yes you are right. But don't you mean wrist band printed good enough. I forgot to tell I used for like this prints Repetier Host with Cura slicing engine. I thought having two different colors ready to use on the same machine is nice option. Beside this some print projects looks nice with different colours.
  2. Vertex 3D Printer form Velleman (K8400) [/img] [/img] [/img]
  3. Hallo Edel, Das Verbatim Pla konnte ich ohne weiteres zurückgeben. Beim grössten Online Versandhandel nehmen sie gerne zurück. Colorfab 210 grad, Innofil 220 grad. Cura 15.04.3. Print Profil Normal Quality von dort aus Switch to full settings umschalten. Reiter "Basic" Speed and Temperature -> Printing temperature 220 eingeben. Reiter "Advanced" unter "Quality" Initial layer thickness 0.2 einstellen (Standart ist 0.3 was du auch anwenden kannst. Mein Ultimaker Original+ meint bei der Einstellung ein A4 Druckerpapier dicke wäre zu niedrig und produziert sogenannten "under extrusion" .Reiter "Advanced" unter Speed "Infill Speed" und "Inner shell Speed" 0 (Null bedeutet gleiche Geschwindigkeit anhand, in "Basic" Reiter eingestellte default print Speed anwenden. Bilder werde ich demnächst einfügen. Gruss
  4. Ja ich wusste auch nicht. Viele bilder was man als druckergebnisse in internet zu sehen bekommt überbelichtet oder echte makro aufnahmen. Ich bevorzuge Silber Colorfab oder Innofil da sieht man solche Layer konturen oder wellen nicht. Abs möchte ich nicht mehr benutzen da es neigt matte leblose ausstrahlung zu zeigen. Die Objekte wie Statue of liberty ist mir mit innofil silber am besten gelungen. Pendeluhr project von Thingiverse auch gut geklappt. Ich designe im moment Spielzeuge von 60er 70er nach und möchte ich nicht mehr am 3d drucker einstellungen mich verlieren. Wenn du neu gekauft hast einfach reklamieren. Ich werde das forum nicht mehr oft besuchen leere tips bringen einem auch nicht weiter. Dremel is Flashforge glaube ich...Ich war mit Vertex 3D drucker von Velleman glücklicher gewesen, es konnte sogar zweifarbig drucken halt ohne heizbett. Sowieso für Pla drucke brauchte ich nur tesa blauklebeband mehr nicht. Viel spass
  5. Ich habe vergessen zu erwähnen, die gedruckte Objekte sehen relativ billig aus. Mir gefällt es persönlich nicht wenn man die einzelnen Layer beim ausgedruckten Objekte erkennen kann. Das tut jeder 300 Euro teure 3D Drucker.
  6. in google suche findest du mehr darüber schon. Halt alles in Englisch. Meine messungen mit Schieblehre hat um die 2.85-2.95 ergeben. Eigentlich in rahmen. Aber weil wir mit Bowdenzugsystem benutzen presst der Extruder in gefährlichem Maße. Da fängt der Teufelskreis da erhöhte Stelle kommt nicht mehr beim Bowdenzugclip ohne bremmseffekt weiter. Colorfab an sich teuer aber es war sorgen frei zu benutzung gewesen. Jetz habe ich Innofil geht auch okay. Ich glaube nach Verbatim könntest du bitte den Knurrledbolt (Filament transport Schraube mit zacken) mit einem Bürste reinigen.
  7. Verbatim hat mir mein Ultimaker Original+ extruder richtig strapaziert. Wenn Sie die möglichkeit haben lieber innofil oder colorfab verwenden. Verbatim sieht gut aus wenn er verpackt ist und da soll er auch bleiben. Was da drin ist keine ahnung aber obwohl ich Verbatim als Pla ordert habe denke ich lansam es ist kreuzung von abs pla und was auch immer. Langsam funktioniert mein Ultimaker wieder. Viel glück...
  8. Hello Stefan, I prefer "Cubify Invent" 49$ (there is also "Cubify Design" for 150$). I designed many 3d objects for my projects with "Cubify Invent". Buy it, learn it in ono or two days and start your own design. For me Cubify Invent really enough but who needs more file formats he can choose also the Cubify Design version. (Cubify Invent = Cubify Design = Alibre Design). You can also download both demo trial softwares from Cubify.com. Regards Niyazi
  9. Hello Nallath, thank you for your quick reply. I would put this issue to Github but I don't have Github account. If anyone want link this issue to github, please feel free to do it. Like I said I'm very happy with Cura 15.06.I wanted to buy the Simplfy3d printing software but there is a no reason for this anymore. Thanks to Daid (David), he released a very fantastic printing software with all the possibilities what every user can play with. Regards Niyazi
  10. Hello Ultimaker Cura users, I like Cura 15.06 because of %25 better quality and %30-35 faster printing. Only one small question to the users: When I load stl to Cura 15.04, it is showing real object dimensions: [media=3590][/media] But same stl loading in to the 15.06 changes object dimensions automatically to fit the print area size: [media=3591][/media] do you have any solution. "Thank you Daid (David) for the "NEXT GENERATION CURA" Regards Niyazi
  11. Hello gr5, you are a moderator because of this can you answer my question? I'm using an Ultimaker Original+ with Cura latest version 15.06 Windows 8.1 and I write from Germany. I'm very happy with new Cura. Slicing takes little longer but print time is 30% reduced and layer quality is 25% increased. Very special thanks to Mr. Daid and to the Cura developers. My question: When I load stl file to the Cura, if the stl is larger then print area size; Cura scaling down automatically loaded stl file. How can I change this behaiviour. regards Niyazi
  12. I love new Cura. I wanted by Simplfy3d but EUR150 is really expensive. And now I printed same objects with New Cura 30% faster and 25% better layer quality. It looks cool, advanced mode has so many possibilities to play with it. But come on i really like the quickprint mode. It works like plug'n play printers. Special thanks to Mr. Daid (David) and if he has, to his helpers, for his/ their effort. Without Cura I wouldn't have bought an Ultimaker. I have also a small question. When I load an object to Cura what is larger/bigger then print area size, cura scales model down automatically. How can I change this option. Regards Niyazi
  13. I contacted the German supporter and seller "Igo3d". I hope they will help soon. Regards Niyazi
  14. Ich verwende den " Cubify Invent (ca. 50euro) " es reicht völlig. Wer es noch umfangreicher (Bauanleitung erstellen oder Passgenauigkeit der verschiedenen Teile überprüfen) will kann auch " Cubify Design (ca. 150Euro) " holen. Übrigens der erste ist abgespeckte und der zweite ist fast vollfunktionsfähige " Alibre Design " . Aber beide kannst du als Demo downloaden und schnell lernen. Alibre Design ist ja von der Firma Geomagic übernommen und dort kosten sie ca. 2.000Euro. Gruss Niyazi
  15. Hello aviphysics, yes I checked 4-5 days ago and it is not flat. But also I'm not sure when I used first time it was flat or not. What I'm asking when I get a new flat glas plate after using some weeks it will also get deformed? regards Niyazi
  16. Thank you for your idea. I saw your post somewhere about the Counter-sunk bolts and a list that contains some must have spare pieces to build UMO+. Because of this I checked it allready. But I will look to UM2 link... Regards Niyazi
  17. Hello Ultimaker users, I know 1000 times same question "How can I level the print bed?" But I have no idea how to get my print bed level. My Ultimaker Original Plus heated print bed makes me little tired: My measurements--> Left front 1 sheet paper = Okay Middle back 1 sheet paper = Okay Right front 1 sheet paper = Okay Left back ==> Nozzle pressing full against the print bed. Right back between nozzle and print bed I can put 3-4 sheets paper. Second issue: X axis 0-210 mm = Okay Y axis 0 to 206 mm I must stop because the nozzle hitting glas retainer at 207 mm (left back is okay only right back glas retainer makes problem). Can somebody give me an idea where or what should I check? Thanks and regards Niyazi p.s. My Ultimaker is printing really nice but just I want to be sure I assembled it right.
  18. Thank you for your Feedback. I would like to use Ultimaker 3d with Cura like the normal desktop printer (like HP, Cannon or Epson etc.). My prints are really good, so good I diidn't saw photos like I printed any where. Cura with quickprint settings gived me a possibility to make my assemblying Ultimaker Original Plus more better. I used before another 3d Printer it took me to much time over Repetier-Host with Cura Engine, always trying something different in Settings and log printings was crazy. My short opinion better and proofed Cura Quickprint results will help to people make and test their assembly easier (for Ultimaker). Regards Niyazi
  19. Thanks for your feedback. At the moment I (Ultimaker Original Plus) have some Y axis limitation: with only one nozzle installed the nozzle hits right-back glas retainer in Y axis at 206mm. X axis I can reach 210mm without any problem. Regards Niyazi
  20. Hello, I'm using at the moment Cura 5.02.1 with quickprint (I also tried expert mode full settings). Honestly I like quickprint really. Because it is giving me a feel like using normal printer, it does what I need. But I have a question about Cura quickprint: when I activate Print support structure it will put "Lines" or "Grid" support structure and it calculate support "Touching buildplate" or "Everywhere"? I want say again "using Cura with quickprint mode gives me a feeling like using normal printer. My wish is can please developer put more effort for better quickprint mode (actually is at the moment working nice except "Fast print" option there I get not really closed top structure and "Normal print" is little stringing what I can easily remove). I love WYSIWYG Cura and Ultimaker Original Plus. Regards Niyazi
  21. Hello community people, I would install dual head upgrade but I used another 3d printer before and there has been the second nozzle installed left to the first nozzle. When I will install second nozzle behind the first nozzle the build volume will decrease in Y axis or Not? Or can I also install the second nozzle left to the first nozzle to not decrease any build volume axis lenght? Regards Niyazi
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