Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

Personal Information

  • Country
  • Industry

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi there! I immediately get a "ER07 Error Stopped X or Y switch broken" on home head. With original firmware everything (including printing) works fine. Its a UM2 Extended which has been upgraded to Plus (by myself). Before the printer was upgraded I used a older TinkerFirmware on it. I think it was 15.10.x. I also tried 16.03.1 but same issue. See https://www.dropbox.com/s/v3h8kklk25viyux/originalfirmware.mp4?dl=0 and https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qvtn6skva6c5eo/tinkerfirmware.mp4?dl=0 Anyone with the same issue?
  2. Hab einen UM2 auf plus aufgerüstet und mit Glasplatte auf keinen grünen Zweig gekommen. Vorgaben von colorfabb verwendet. BuildTak bestellt. Mal sehen.
  3. Hi WTFockewulf, my printer came back from igo3d and they exchanged to bearings. Can you please send me your testfiles? And which material / temps you used? Thanks.
  4. Thanks, when the printer is back and the problem still exists I will definitely give it a try.
  5. Ok understood. Then I was to gentle :-) Thanks.
  6. Sorry missed one question: If I turn off the UM2 I cannot move the bed by hand - I need to turn the z-axis manually to move it. I read quite often that it should be possible to move it by hand easily. I feel quite some resistance so I did not dare to move it up.
  7. Hi Tomty, thanks for your tip. Would it be sufficient to use WD-40 on the rods and let the bed slide up and down? Will the WD40 "get into" the bearings then? Or do I need to remove the bearings from the rod? Kind regards, Markus
  8. thanks bob, eldrick and tingergnome! Its good to know that the community is very helpful here. Will post results when the printer is back from iGo3D.
  9. I ordered a 35W heater, when the printer is back from iGo3D (z-axis problem you know :-) then I will change the heater.
  10. Hi Gr5, when you watch the flow of the bed you can see it is a little jumpy when then layer gap happens. The height varies slightly but always in the first 15mm of the print. I also did a 20cm tall vase with no problems at all. I already tried to decrease and increase the Z stepper current. Lowering it to 1150 seemed to make the problem occur more often, increasing it to 1350 it happend less. But could also be pure coincidence as it is not easy to reproduce. As you can see here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4qmhl1r04pra0b4/beddrop2.mp4?dl=0 the filament is coming but only sticks to the
  11. I was glad to early... printed a wind wheel multiple times. First try in red PLA worked out: https://www.dropbox.com/s/v1x2zgaw82sz5ec/windwheel-1-rot-ok-04PLA025L_20151128003256.mpg?dl=0 Second try blue PLA (bed drop) with layer gap: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bcb7079m50852w2/windwheel-2-blau-fehler-04PLA025L_20151128092526.mpg?dl=0 Third try blue PLA worked out: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ar0ixhfgplmp6yl/windwheel-3-blau-ok-04PLA025L_20151128120412.mpg?dl=0 Watch the front edge closely in all timelapses as you can see the bed drop clearly. Red PLA was from spool. Blue PLA was loose sam
  12. Hi Labern, yes it happend on the first layer, fans were at 0%. I use a M4 screw nut as a spacer. The screws come out at about 1mm on the other side. I use the Olsson block with a 0.4 nozzle.
  13. Hi gr5, I am using TinkerGnome-MarlinUltimaker2extended-15.10.2.hex at the moment. Switching back to the standard fan shroud everything works fine. Kind regards, Markus
  • Create New...