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Everything posted by markusmaker

  1. Hi there! I immediately get a "ER07 Error Stopped X or Y switch broken" on home head. With original firmware everything (including printing) works fine. Its a UM2 Extended which has been upgraded to Plus (by myself). Before the printer was upgraded I used a older TinkerFirmware on it. I think it was 15.10.x. I also tried 16.03.1 but same issue. See https://www.dropbox.com/s/v3h8kklk25viyux/originalfirmware.mp4?dl=0 and https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qvtn6skva6c5eo/tinkerfirmware.mp4?dl=0 Anyone with the same issue?
  2. Hab einen UM2 auf plus aufgerüstet und mit Glasplatte auf keinen grünen Zweig gekommen. Vorgaben von colorfabb verwendet. BuildTak bestellt. Mal sehen.
  3. Hi WTFockewulf, my printer came back from igo3d and they exchanged to bearings. Can you please send me your testfiles? And which material / temps you used? Thanks.
  4. Thanks, when the printer is back and the problem still exists I will definitely give it a try.
  5. Ok understood. Then I was to gentle :-) Thanks.
  6. Sorry missed one question: If I turn off the UM2 I cannot move the bed by hand - I need to turn the z-axis manually to move it. I read quite often that it should be possible to move it by hand easily. I feel quite some resistance so I did not dare to move it up.
  7. Hi Tomty, thanks for your tip. Would it be sufficient to use WD-40 on the rods and let the bed slide up and down? Will the WD40 "get into" the bearings then? Or do I need to remove the bearings from the rod? Kind regards, Markus
  8. thanks bob, eldrick and tingergnome! Its good to know that the community is very helpful here. Will post results when the printer is back from iGo3D.
  9. I ordered a 35W heater, when the printer is back from iGo3D (z-axis problem you know :-) then I will change the heater.
  10. Hi Gr5, when you watch the flow of the bed you can see it is a little jumpy when then layer gap happens. The height varies slightly but always in the first 15mm of the print. I also did a 20cm tall vase with no problems at all. I already tried to decrease and increase the Z stepper current. Lowering it to 1150 seemed to make the problem occur more often, increasing it to 1350 it happend less. But could also be pure coincidence as it is not easy to reproduce. As you can see here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4qmhl1r04pra0b4/beddrop2.mp4?dl=0 the filament is coming but only sticks to the
  11. I was glad to early... printed a wind wheel multiple times. First try in red PLA worked out: https://www.dropbox.com/s/v1x2zgaw82sz5ec/windwheel-1-rot-ok-04PLA025L_20151128003256.mpg?dl=0 Second try blue PLA (bed drop) with layer gap: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bcb7079m50852w2/windwheel-2-blau-fehler-04PLA025L_20151128092526.mpg?dl=0 Third try blue PLA worked out: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ar0ixhfgplmp6yl/windwheel-3-blau-ok-04PLA025L_20151128120412.mpg?dl=0 Watch the front edge closely in all timelapses as you can see the bed drop clearly. Red PLA was from spool. Blue PLA was loose sam
  12. Hi Labern, yes it happend on the first layer, fans were at 0%. I use a M4 screw nut as a spacer. The screws come out at about 1mm on the other side. I use the Olsson block with a 0.4 nozzle.
  13. Hi gr5, I am using TinkerGnome-MarlinUltimaker2extended-15.10.2.hex at the moment. Switching back to the standard fan shroud everything works fine. Kind regards, Markus
  14. Don't worry, the objective is that Z is set to zero if the nozzle touches the buildplate. There are no other dependencies. The buildplate wizard assumes that you use a sheet of paper with 0.1mm height.That's all. Thanks - then I will try to get the right settings in Simplify3D for the 0.8 nozzle.
  15. Hi Bob, the question is, will the Slicer take the layer height into account while creating the STL file? It would be special if I need to adjust the bed every time I change the layer height. So basically the question is how far away should the nozzle from the bed. 0.1 mm? Thanks.
  16. Short update: Before sending the printer to iGo3D for new bearings, I cleaned the guidances with soft cloth multiple times. I did a number of prints - no gap or bed drop so far...
  17. I printed the labern fan shroud for olsson block https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-fan-shroud (also got I2K) and taped it with kapton. Mounted it (2 spacers used on right side of heat block): On the first layer I got a heater error (with fans off): I printed colorfabb XT white at 235C. Anyone can tell me where I did go wrong? Thanks!
  18. Hi Izzy, I will measure it today. the Post It Measurement Toolkit is a nice idea - I will try to "copy" that. Regarding the distance nozzle-bed : Is the distance always the same regardless of the nozzle diameter? Thanks.
  19. Thank you both! It was iRoberts File i meant. Kind regards Markus
  20. Hi there, I successfully switched to the Olsson Block and made some prints with the 0.4 nozzle already . Worked out very nice: Now I wanted to try the 0.8 and 0.6 nozzles. But my question is - do I need to make anything different regarding bed leveling? At the moment I go up until the nozzle touches the bed and then I go two ticks back. I tried to print a simple wind wheel (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wind-wheel) with the 0.8 nozzle, at 0.4 layer height and 30% infill. The first layer turns out like this: (created with Simplify3D) GCode file The layer looks like a mountainous
  21. Hi John, thanks for your reply. I will sent the printer to iGo3D for checking/changing the bearings. Kind regards, Markus
  22. Can anyone tell me please where to get the STL file for the stock MiniCal Target Gcode file which is on the supplied SD Card? Kind regards, Markus
  23. Thanks. But I wonder if this has any implication for the hardware? The help tooltip says "Rapid movement speed for Z-axis when machine is not printing, should match actual Z-axis movement speed between layers for accurate print times"
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