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Posts posted by markusmaker
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Thanks, and sorry for bothering - I will try this evening.
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Hi there!
I immediately get a "ER07 Error Stopped X or Y switch broken" on home head.
With original firmware everything (including printing) works fine. Its a UM2 Extended which has been upgraded to Plus (by myself).
Before the printer was upgraded I used a older TinkerFirmware on it. I think it was 15.10.x.
I also tried 16.03.1 but same issue.
See
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v3h8kklk25viyux/originalfirmware.mp4?dl=0
and
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7qvtn6skva6c5eo/tinkerfirmware.mp4?dl=0
Anyone with the same issue?
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Hab einen UM2 auf plus aufgerüstet und mit Glasplatte auf keinen grünen Zweig gekommen. Vorgaben von colorfabb verwendet. BuildTak bestellt. Mal sehen.
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Hi WTFockewulf,
my printer came back from igo3d and they exchanged to bearings. Can you please send me your testfiles? And which material / temps you used?
Thanks.
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Hi Markus,
You will need to remove the bearings from the rods as they are sealed (this unfortunately means removing the rods too.) You have to take the rods out from the underside which is a pain. It's definitely worth it though. I used to have nearly half my prints failing and since doing this I have printed about 15 things and all turned out perfectly so I believe this has solved the problem.
Thanks, when the printer is back and the problem still exists I will definitely give it a try.
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You need quite a bit of force to raise the bed - about the same amount of force required to lift the printer off the table. Grip the bed using BOTH hands with your fingers under the bed near the very back where it attaches. Once it starts moving it doesn't take much friction to keep ti going.
WD40 has powerful cleaners in it that are very bad to leave in/on the bearings/rods. WD40 should only be used to clean - not lubricate. You need to wipe most of it off after you are done. So only use WD40 if you take the two linear bearings completely off the rods out and you can get it pretty dry before putting it back together.
Ok understood. Then I was to gentle :-) Thanks.
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Sorry missed one question:
If I turn off the UM2 I cannot move the bed by hand - I need to turn the z-axis manually to move it. I read quite often that it should be possible to move it by hand easily. I feel quite some resistance so I did not dare to move it up.
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Hi,
I've had the same problem and i'm pretty sure i've now fixed it without sending my printer back. Here's a link to my post with a detailed description of what i did to solve it. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17753-um-2-skipping-layers?page=1&%3Bsort=#reply-125974 .
I would be very interested to know if it solves your problem too. And it may save you the hassle of having to send it back.
Hi Tomty,
thanks for your tip. Would it be sufficient to use WD-40 on the rods and let the bed slide up and down? Will the WD40 "get into" the bearings then? Or do I need to remove the bearings from the rod?
Kind regards,
Markus
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thanks bob, eldrick and tingergnome! Its good to know that the community is very helpful here. Will post results when the printer is back from iGo3D.
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You might want to either disable the "heater error" check or alternatively get a 35W heater. The 25W heater that comes with the UM has quite a bit of variation from printer to printer and may actually be as low as 20W.
I ordered a 35W heater, when the printer is back from iGo3D (z-axis problem you know :-) then I will change the heater.
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Hi Gr5,
when you watch the flow of the bed you can see it is a little jumpy when then layer gap happens.
The height varies slightly but always in the first 15mm of the print. I also did a 20cm tall vase with no problems at all.
I already tried to decrease and increase the Z stepper current. Lowering it to 1150 seemed to make the problem occur more often, increasing it to 1350 it happend less. But could also be pure coincidence as it is not easy to reproduce.
As you can see here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4qmhl1r04pra0b4/beddrop2.mp4?dl=0
the filament is coming but only sticks to the outer points of the previous layer making a little cobweb out and in. Does not look like underextrusion.
So should iGo3D also change the motor and stepper controller of the z axis additionally to the bearings? As it is the second time I send the printer there and I am not keen on sending it a third time again :-)
Thanks,
Markus
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I was glad to early... printed a wind wheel multiple times.
First try in red PLA worked out:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v1x2zgaw82sz5ec/windwheel-1-rot-ok-04PLA025L_20151128003256.mpg?dl=0
Second try blue PLA (bed drop) with layer gap:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bcb7079m50852w2/windwheel-2-blau-fehler-04PLA025L_20151128092526.mpg?dl=0
Third try blue PLA worked out:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ar0ixhfgplmp6yl/windwheel-3-blau-ok-04PLA025L_20151128120412.mpg?dl=0
Watch the front edge closely in all timelapses as you can see the bed drop clearly.
Red PLA was from spool. Blue PLA was loose sample material. Always printed with same layer height and same temps.
Printer is packed now and I send it to iGo3D on Monday.
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Hi Labern,
yes it happend on the first layer, fans were at 0%. I use a M4 screw nut as a spacer. The screws come out at about 1mm on the other side. I use the Olsson block with a 0.4 nozzle.
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Hi gr5,
I am using TinkerGnome-MarlinUltimaker2extended-15.10.2.hex at the moment.
Switching back to the standard fan shroud everything works fine.
Kind regards,
Markus
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It would be special if I need to adjust the bed every time I change the layer height. So basically the question is how far away should the nozzle from the bed. 0.1 mm?
Don't worry, the objective is that Z is set to zero if the nozzle touches the buildplate. There are no other dependencies.
The buildplate wizard assumes that you use a sheet of paper with 0.1mm height.That's all.
Thanks - then I will try to get the right settings in Simplify3D for the 0.8 nozzle.
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Hi Bob,
the question is, will the Slicer take the layer height into account while creating the STL file? It would be special if I need to adjust the bed every time I change the layer height. So basically the question is how far away should the nozzle from the bed. 0.1 mm?
Thanks.
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Short update:
Before sending the printer to iGo3D for new bearings, I cleaned the guidances with soft cloth multiple times. I did a number of prints - no gap or bed drop so far...
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I printed the labern fan shroud for olsson block https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-fan-shroud (also got I2K) and taped it with kapton.
Mounted it (2 spacers used on right side of heat block):
On the first layer I got a heater error (with fans off):
I printed colorfabb XT white at 235C.
Anyone can tell me where I did go wrong?
Thanks!
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Have you measured the actual 1st print layer, by the looks of the photograph it may only be 0.2mm although you have asked for 0.4mm, which would account for the nozzle pushing the other lines. I usually use the sheet of paper wich is about 0.1mm to level the bed or several together to get different levels. ( I have a sturing stick from costa coffee, and the very small post-it's, a block of 12 on one end with the top 2 cut so that I have 3 steps, 1.2, 1.1 and 1.0mm and the other end 2 giving 0.1 & 0.2mm works a treat to set up) but then I print a simple washer in 3 places but only print the 1st layer, I check their thickness and then adjust the screws, I have a 6 Point star on the knobs so for adjustment 1/12 of a turn on a M3x0.5mm screw = 0.04 approx. This allows me to fine adjust and check the level and nozzle gap.
Also check the actual nozzle diameter, do an Atomic pull clean and you will hopefully have a small nib and a bit from the nozzle diameter, measure this to check, my 0.4 nozzle is actually 0.37
Hi Izzy,
I will measure it today. the Post It Measurement Toolkit is a nice idea - I will try to "copy" that.
Regarding the distance nozzle-bed :
Is the distance always the same regardless of the nozzle diameter?
Thanks.
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Thank you both! It was iRoberts File i meant.
Kind regards
Markus
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Hi there,
I successfully switched to the Olsson Block and made some prints with the 0.4 nozzle already .
Worked out very nice:
Now I wanted to try the 0.8 and 0.6 nozzles. But my question is - do I need to make anything different regarding bed leveling? At the moment I go up until the nozzle touches the bed and then I go two ticks back. I tried to print a simple wind wheel (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wind-wheel) with the 0.8 nozzle, at 0.4 layer height and 30% infill.
The first layer turns out like this: (created with Simplify3D)
The layer looks like a mountainous mess. The nozzles pushes the melted filament along. I have 3 skirt outlines with 0mm offset. In the middle you see the 2mm wide blade. Also in infill in the middle circle is a mess and totally overlapping.
The first layer from the gcode looks like this:
The settings from simplify 3D:
colorfabb XT white, bed 70C nozzle 235C
Thanks in advance!
Kind regards,
Markus
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I'm pretty sure the problem is with the bearings. Unless the rods are very marked and dented, they should be OK.
If you can undo the bearings, ( it's a real pain to do this ) and slide them up and down the rods, they should run smoothly with a slight 'whirring' sound. If the balls in the bearing get out of position they will suddenly lock and the whole thing jams. A slight twist and it will run again. In my experience, the more oil on the pillars, the more times the bearings lock.
Not sure of the advantage of the roller bearings over the slide bearings used on the X and Y axes, any mechanical engineers out there? This banding problem seems to be a pretty common fault.
Hi John,
thanks for your reply. I will sent the printer to iGo3D for checking/changing the bearings.
Kind regards,
Markus
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Can anyone tell me please where to get the STL file for the stock MiniCal Target Gcode file which is on the supplied SD Card?
Kind regards,
Markus
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Hi Markus,
yep, thats the one. Default 16,7mm/s. Just checked again, I changed it to 30mm/s not 60mm/s.
Try that and it should be OK.
Update on my case. I explained this behavior to igo3d and they want me to send the printer back. It is on its way there now.
I will keep you posted.
Thanks. But I wonder if this has any implication for the hardware? The help tooltip says
"Rapid movement speed for Z-axis when machine is not printing, should match actual Z-axis movement speed between layers for accurate print times"
Tinker firmware - UM2+ Extended getting ER07 on home head with 16.12.1
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
Did a Factory reset - now everything works - thanks!