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apex1001

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Everything posted by apex1001

  1. From your description I thought you meant the extruder is not working because one of the heater outputs is damaged. No heating means no molten plastic so no extrusion of said plastic which would point to Q1-Q3.. If those outputs are fine there is no need to replace them I guess. And then yes you could try to replace the mosfet in the right corner if that is actually connected to the extruder motor outputs. Good luck ;-).
  2. Yes that is what I mean ;-). Although I think they are probably mosfets and not regulators. But I don't have the actual part numbers so it's a guess. Capacitors (condensator in german) almost never fail from things like this so I don't think replacing it will make a difference. Unless it's visibly fried. Do you have a picture of it? You can probably find all the parts you need at a local electronics shop or at a webshop.. Greetz Vincent
  3. I am not an expert on the UM1 shield board but I do know something about electronics. Leaving a damaged component in a system is never a good idea. Especially power components tend to form a permanent short circuit. I do not know what else is powerd of the board but it might explain some buttons not working. Below is a picture of the board I found on the net. I think replacing Q1 - Q3 and the powercomponent (voltage regulator?) on the right bottom should solve any problems with the board itself. After that replace any faulty driver boards. It should be cheaper (few bucks for the mosfets and power regulator) than a new board ;-). Good luck with the repairs! Vincent
  4. Okay, I disassembled the printhead to find the correct wires for the fans. It turns out the center and left fan wires had been switched. I was able to remedy this by switching the 2p connectors in the wiring loom. However the cable lengths are not quite correct (center fan cable is 3 cm too short, left one too long) which leaves me to believe they are cut to size on assembly of the printhead. After that a 2p connector is crimped on. If you mistakingly switch the cables on cutting you get exactly what I had. But all seems ok. I do find it a little bit odd this made it through quality control. The problem is quite apparent when you switch the printer on. The hot end seems to work fine still. Everything is working as intended, but now I have to go and find out the best ABS temperature/cooling settings all over again .. For now 50% fan seems to work best.. Before it was 15% fan ;-), Thanx for the help! Vincent
  5. Hello people of the UM forum, I am new here but not new at 3D printing. And I have a question you might be able to answer: I've been using my Ultimaker2 for a year now with mixed results. Quality is not as good as I think it could be and I have warping issues with ABS, probably connected to temperature/cooling. While searching for ways to improve my prints I came across 3DVERKSTAN's guide to better prints via the Ultimaker support page. An interesting read.. However.. At about 2/3 of the article it is stated that the CENTER fan at the back should always come on as soon as the printer is turned on. But with my ultimaker2 the LEFT fan always comes on as soon as I turn on the printer. The center and right fan can be controlled via the menu or via the Tweak at Z plugin. The left fan cannot be controlled and is always at the same speed. Is this normal behaviour? Or is it a wiring error? If 3DVERKSTAN's guide is right I might have to do some rewiring on my UM2. If so, what's the best way to do this? Can I simply switch some connectors around or do I need to take out the old soldering iron :-). Best regards, Vincent
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