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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. After a lot of faffing about I managed to get XY axis moving nice and free, I am using the chopmeister blocks I now also have my electonics hooked up and working, I am using the 1.5.7 board and ended up using the more common RepRap Discount Smart controller LCD, so I had to make a wider unicontroller box to suit as I couldnt find a LCD that fitted the first one I cut. My stubbling block now is getting the temp sensor working I have a AD597 board and have tried various sensors, still bit confussed as to the correct sensor to use . There are lots of posts about it but none says this one work
  2. I hadnt posted any update as I am having issues fitting the rails, I had everything installed GT2 pulleys and belts motors, print head, but could not get smooth motion, I printed out various rail calibration tools, on my Davinci but still no good, then I realised two of my rails were slightly bent! I had ordered 8mm ground bearing steel linear rails from a cnc supplier on ebay and just asumed they were streight, So I stripped it again ordered new rails this time advertised as 3D printer chrome steel smooth rail from a 3D printing parts supplier, only to find one of those were slightly bent
  3. The 8x12mm bushings on the E3D website is perfect for these
  4. I am building from scratch so I want to add all the best mods
  5. I have same problem seems this display dosnt work with the firmware
  6. I have a 1000+hrs on y Davinci and still use xyz ware, Good calibration is key and I use the zerocart bluetooth tool to reset cartridge and set temps, filament makes a big difference too. My prints are really good I do everything at .2 I am printing all the parts for my UMO build in ABS everything fits perfect so far. Thing I love about the davinci is I just load stl file, set layer and the fill and that is it, never look at anything else, prints always stick to bed and it must be easy 6months since I looked at calibrating the bed. I like the simplicity and the perfect prints each time.
  7. I am surprised about this, I dont want to build the UMO for ABS I have a Davinci that prints ABS perfect, I wanted it for PLA, wood, nylon etc. Need to get some more bits ordered !
  8. So from reading the above posts is the standard umo setup better for pla than the E3d v6 I thought the E3D was meant to be the best out there ?
  9. The 8mm leadscrew on the UMO heated bed conversion is a T8x8 P2 which seems very corse i.e. giving 8mm per revoution, is a finer thread not much better for a Z axis which only moves small amounts a time
  10. I am bit confussed on the Z axis leadscrew for the heated bed conversion it is quoted as TR8x8 (p2) which to me reads 8mm 2mm pitch 4 start But 2mm 4 start is 8mm per revolution, seems very corse for a Z axis that only moves about .1 a time, would a finer thread i.e. 1 start not be better ?
  11. Obviously I wouldnt fit it ontop of the acrylic bed, but not impressed with having to level all the time so that would put me off, its over 6months since I levelled bed on my Davinci. I have a machine shop near me who have a laser that can cut alum so might get some blanks made and go that route. Thought it strange they changed to a 8mm leadscrew with a heavier alum bed the original has a 12mm leadscrew, you would think it should be the other way around
  12. Quite simple really loop means it is in a closed loop in one piece like a rubber band so each belt is a set length endless it is like a ball of string :-) so you just cut of what you want and find someway of joining it.
  13. Is there any reason why you cant simply fit a reprap mk2B type heated bed with piece of glass onto the standard UMO build platform
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