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  1. After a lot of faffing about I managed to get XY axis moving nice and free, I am using the chopmeister blocks I now also have my electonics hooked up and working, I am using the 1.5.7 board and ended up using the more common RepRap Discount Smart controller LCD, so I had to make a wider unicontroller box to suit as I couldnt find a LCD that fitted the first one I cut. My stubbling block now is getting the temp sensor working I have a AD597 board and have tried various sensors, still bit confussed as to the correct sensor to use . There are lots of posts about it but none says this one works other than the one from ultimaker. I believe it is a k type thermocouple so have one ordered to try Also printed out H3 feeder looks good design
  2. I hadnt posted any update as I am having issues fitting the rails, I had everything installed GT2 pulleys and belts motors, print head, but could not get smooth motion, I printed out various rail calibration tools, on my Davinci but still no good, then I realised two of my rails were slightly bent! I had ordered 8mm ground bearing steel linear rails from a cnc supplier on ebay and just asumed they were streight, So I stripped it again ordered new rails this time advertised as 3D printer chrome steel smooth rail from a 3D printing parts supplier, only to find one of those were slightly bent also ! In the meantime I found another stockist in UK worldofcnc.com who will supply rails to exact dimensions (others were 400mm lengths and needed cutting down) so I had ordered full set from them 12, 8 & 6 and they all came nicely oilded, perfectly round & correct lengths, so I know where I will be buying in future. As I re-assembled everything I also noticed a slight wobble in one of the GT2 pulleys so next job was to fit an offcut of a shaft in the lathe and check each one, luckily I bought extras as out of the 20 I bought only 12 were perfectly true. Also swapped out the 688RS bearings I had fitted (all had at time) for the better 688ZZ as metal shields have less friction than rubber seals. Hope to get it all setup again today.
  3. The 8x12mm bushings on the E3D website is perfect for these
  4. I am building from scratch so I want to add all the best mods
  5. I have same problem seems this display dosnt work with the firmware
  6. I have a 1000+hrs on y Davinci and still use xyz ware, Good calibration is key and I use the zerocart bluetooth tool to reset cartridge and set temps, filament makes a big difference too. My prints are really good I do everything at .2 I am printing all the parts for my UMO build in ABS everything fits perfect so far. Thing I love about the davinci is I just load stl file, set layer and the fill and that is it, never look at anything else, prints always stick to bed and it must be easy 6months since I looked at calibrating the bed. I like the simplicity and the perfect prints each time.
  7. I am surprised about this, I dont want to build the UMO for ABS I have a Davinci that prints ABS perfect, I wanted it for PLA, wood, nylon etc. Need to get some more bits ordered !
  8. So from reading the above posts is the standard umo setup better for pla than the E3d v6 I thought the E3D was meant to be the best out there ?
  9. The 8mm leadscrew on the UMO heated bed conversion is a T8x8 P2 which seems very corse i.e. giving 8mm per revoution, is a finer thread not much better for a Z axis which only moves small amounts a time
  10. I am bit confussed on the Z axis leadscrew for the heated bed conversion it is quoted as TR8x8 (p2) which to me reads 8mm 2mm pitch 4 start But 2mm 4 start is 8mm per revolution, seems very corse for a Z axis that only moves about .1 a time, would a finer thread i.e. 1 start not be better ?
  11. Obviously I wouldnt fit it ontop of the acrylic bed, but not impressed with having to level all the time so that would put me off, its over 6months since I levelled bed on my Davinci. I have a machine shop near me who have a laser that can cut alum so might get some blanks made and go that route. Thought it strange they changed to a 8mm leadscrew with a heavier alum bed the original has a 12mm leadscrew, you would think it should be the other way around
  12. Quite simple really loop means it is in a closed loop in one piece like a rubber band so each belt is a set length endless it is like a ball of string :-) so you just cut of what you want and find someway of joining it.
  13. Is there any reason why you cant simply fit a reprap mk2B type heated bed with piece of glass onto the standard UMO build platform
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