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tyman00

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Everything posted by tyman00

  1. Congrats dbgrn! Form and Function both show through with your print.
  2. [print=3412][/print] I did this project mostly as a challenge to see what I could do in TinkerCAD. I was able to complete it, but it definitely showed me that I need to spend more time learning a more advanced design tool. The print just barely fit on the bed when split in two pieces. I'm really happy with how it turned out, though I do need to make larger tolerances for the hex shaped holes for my hex bits. I've already had a few requests to print a tray for their exact same nut driver sets. The tray looks professional, organized and like something you would spend a lot of money on from the tool manufacture. I'll post more detailed photos when I get a chance to get them off my DSLR camera.
  3. Version 1.0

    1,307 downloads

    My nut drivers in their original carrying case made it difficult to quickly retrieve a driver from my toolbox and they took up a lot of space in the drawer. I used TinkerCAD to design a tray to snugly fit each driver. The tray was too large to fit on the bed of the Ultimaker 2 so I split it into two pieces and built in dowl slots to align the pieces when I glued them together with CA glue. I printed in ColorFabb XT as it was the only Black Filament I had at the time. I printed at a VERY high resolution so it took a long time to print. However the tray had zero cleanup work done to it. What you see in the photos are the two pieces straight of the bed and glued together.
  4. I threw it in the clamps/press and went to work. Didn't get back to it for ~12 hours. I have no idea how long it really needs to be under pressure, that's just what worked out for me that day. It's not quite as deep now as it was in the photo (taken directly out of the press setup). But it's still legible. It wasn't really the proper leather, but it's what matched the rest of the project. Next time I would make the outer border thicker. I heard it start to crack as I was tightening the clamps so I didn't dare add more pressure. I may also experiment with heating the leather prior to pressing. I may also try to get my hands on legitimate tooling leather to see how it works out.
  5. Version 1.0

    1,729 downloads

    Monogram Stamp in Leather to be used on a wooden knife case. I placed the leather and reversed stamp between two wooden calls and clamped them together for an afternoon. Slightly heating the leather prior clamping might have helped get a little more of a lasting impression.
  6. That makes sense. I was wondering how the tip didn't drag through the red, but setting the bottom layer slightly thicker is a good tip!
  7. While its not a full name I think it turned out well.
  8. Thanks for the Tips. I was worried about sagging or support structure issues if I printed it on it's side. I'll keep the Sketchup tip in mind. I created a monogram type stamp in Illustrator, exported it as an SVG and imported it into TinkerCAD. It printed well. I broke part of it trying to use it as a hammer stamp, which I partially expected. I printed another and I have it clamped tightly against a piece of leather between some wood calls as I type. I really like the two color layout. How do you handle the first layer height (red) when you do the rest of the print in white?
  9. I was using the only Slab Serif style font that was available in the TinkerCAD text tool. If I were to do it again, I'd just build up an SVG with a better font. Interestingly, the majority of the issues were on the stroke and not the serif. I was just expecting too much out of that font in such a small size. I rethought my approach and went with a Monogram that I did a bulge warp on and made a border to match. It printed nicely overnight and I'm testing it on some leather at lunch.
  10. You guys were right. Turns out that it was indeed narrower than 0.4mm. Some of the other artifacts were probably stringing judging by the travel paths. I know better than to not check the layer view. I've done it in the past, not sure why it was hard for me to remember. Thanks for your help!
  11. Thanks, I'll check out the layer tip. It shouldn't be narrower than the nozzle, but I could be wrong. I tried in PLA with very similar results. I'm guessing it's retraction and I need to study up and tinker with those settings. In the mean time I went with a larger set of initials instead of a full name and it turned out great.
  12. Hi All, If this is the wrong forum, I apologize. I chose it, because I'm guessing it's my settings in Cura 15.04.2. I'm trying to print a reversed stamp with text. I'm hoping to use it to make impressions in a few different materials. My first print was with ColorFabb XT Black and the letters were globs that peeled right off the base. I reset the settings to 100% infill and slowed down the print. It seemed to help the structural part, but the clarity of the text just isn't quite there. I forgot to snap some photos of the prints, but I will post them later if needed. Here is a screenshot of the file in TinkerCAD. The text itself is 4.75mm in height. Am I expecting too much clarity from such a small print or should the UM2 be able to print this? If so, do you have any suggestions on some of the settings. I'm going to try slowing it down even more. I'm guessing from other posts I need to tinker with Retraction, but I haven't done much with those settings to this point. Any help is appreciated.
  13. @gr5 - If I want to print at a layer height between .06mm and .099mm do I need to adjust my speed or temps? Will I get that much better quality or detail by going below .1mm?
  14. Thanks! The blue print looked identical to the white until I pulled it apart. Originally I thought it drug some of the external support structure around a little so I tried the white print next without support. Before the white finished I could see inside and it looked similar to the blue. I'll try your suggestions later this weekend and report back.
  15. Hi All, I am fairly new to the scene and I have a project that I am trying to print. I've printed a few smaller items off of various repositories and that came default with the UM2. This particular print below is a file I downloaded off of Thingiverse and modified a little with TinkerCAD. In both attempts it seems to separate a little and then the inner support material was stringy from the separation up. I did run the 10mm cylinder test a few times. My first attempts I forgot to change the temp to 230. When it would under extrude in that test I would hear the extruder skipping in the back of the machine. Once I set the right temps I was able to make it to 10mm once and then had minor under-extrusion in the 10mm ring. When that happened the extruder skipped again. I wasn't around when the layer of the prints below had issues, so my question is the skipping causing the separation and under-extrusion? The blue print was my first attempt and it pulled apart when I was cleaning it up. The second print is a little more structurally sound, but I could see before it finished the fill was stringy as well. The print settings in Cura were essentially the default "Ulti quality" quick print profile settings copied over to advanced where I turned on brim. I'm still learning so I figured this would be my safest route. Any insight or suggestions is appreciated! https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GrDV-FVlnYXzRRWDh6RkllNlk/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7GrDV-FVlnYVndOOHZMM21INUE&authuser=0 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7GrDV-FVlnYRHFqSWhBZkVjaE0&authuser=0 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7GrDV-FVlnYUDZJejVTRTJ0MUk&authuser=0 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7GrDV-FVlnYc0RTRmoxTGFOZG8&authuser=0
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