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  1. Thanks for your quick reply! I should have clarified this a bit... I have a spare 24V heater cartridge (from UMO+) and some old e3d metal parts, along with an original 12v e3d fan and just wanted to see if i got this semi-original setup running... But now i guess it's easiest to get a new fan. Thank you very much!
  2. Hello everyone, i want to hook up the 12v e3d hotend fan to a UltiMainBoard rev 2.1.4, but i'm scared of the 19-24v output. Did this before on a Solidoodle2 and took the 12V parallel from the power supply, but UMO runs at 24v... I am neither an electronics guy nor a pragrammer, which is why I couldn't get any helpful information around here, although similar questions have already been answered in previous topics. So please excuse my stupidity; i need an answer as simple as possible: Where on the UMB 2.1.4 can i safely connect a single 12V-always-on-fan? It would be really great to do it
  3. If you're working on a part (.sldprt), you can hide the bodies you don't need to export. Same should apply for assemblies (.sldasm). Step 1: hide unwanted bodies. Step 2: deselect all, then save as STL.
  4. Hey, i have loosened the screws of both bearings that connect build plate and rods, ran the build plate up and down a couple of times and then re-tightened them in the area where most of the 'layer skipping' occured. That was a few months ago and it never happened again. Sorry for not being here such a long time!
  5. Hello, I am planning to print some tests in mid-air with a custom gcode. When i use relative coordinates (G91) in the gcode, will this also affect the extrusion length? So, is it possible to just use constant values for E like this? G1 X 5.00 Y 0.00 Z 2.00 E 0.0024 G1 X 5.00 Y 0.00 Z -2.00 E 0.0024 G1 X 0.00 Y 5.00 Z 2.00 E 0.0024 G1 X 0.00 Y 5.00 Z -2.00 E 0.0024... Or would i have to do it this way? G1 X 5.00 Y 0.00 Z 2.00 E 0.0024 G1 X 5.00 Y 0.00 Z -2.00 E 0.0048 G1 X 0.00 Y 5.00 Z 2.00 E 0.0072 G1 X 0.00 Y 5.00 Z -2.00 E 0.0096... Thank you very much! Lars
  6. ...und diesen! Grüße, Lars
  7. 0.1 x 47 =4.7mm ->mit first layer +0.3 = 5.0mm ich denke mal, so meintest du das
  8. though i would hate to see you give your printer away: how much for the broken UM2?
  9. I can't imagine how the rods could have been bent in your machine, as it came preassembled... But actually, they don't need to be bent to cause malfunction, i guess... As i assembled the UMO+ myself, i must have somehow put the rods not perfectly parallel and then tightened the bearings screws in a bad position or something like this. i will measure the x-distance of the z-rods with calipers (top, middle and bottom distance) as soon i return home. maybe you can do the same to check if the are really perfectly parallel. nevertheless, i still assume my z-screw isn't perfectly smooth either, an
  10. Good day, good sirs, i suspected the retract settings as well ( i like to use 4.6mm at 37mm/s ), but then i printed a pair of race vases. No solid Bottom/Top, no infill, 2 perimeters, 190°C, 0.1 layer, 50mm/s. Two of them with and two of them without retract and both were printed flawlessly, aside from stringing. Will try to verify that this wasn't just luck. happens more often with prints that have large X/Y scale, it seems to me. maybe you could print another dummy cylinder with, uh... D=100mm and H=30mm? so it's more likely to get the "desired misbehavior". i will try this in the evening
  11. you have a very interesting point there, gr5! thanks for the hint, i would also hate to get replacement i don't need!
  12. If you feel the same "grinding" at the top of the z-thread as i do, i assume your problem isn't underextrusion. i have upgraded my UMO+ Feeder with double helical gears which dramatically improved extrusion/retract reliability (because the teeth of helicals gears are always touching each other, directly translating the e-stepper motion to the filament.) i don't know if this upgrade is available for UM2, but was worth 6 hours of printing again, i don't know how this applies to UM2, but on my UMO+, there are 2 screws underneath the milled aluminum platform. when i remove these, i can move t
  13. Well, you intend to use WD-50 as a cleaner, not as a lubricant, right? I don't believe WD is up to the task of lubing the z-screw and it might be too aggressive as well. I use Nigrin Light Silicone Spray for all rods, but i wouldn't dare to to put it on the screw thread, as it's too thin to withstand the forces between thread and nut, making the thread quality even poorer over time. also, it's quite volatile and tends to run away from where it should be sticking... But i am only an amateur and i'm guessing as always. Maybe someone around here with more profound knowledge of lubrication phy
  14. Yeah, same here! Its a slight grinding sound near the top of the screw. Maybe a diiferent lubing technique such as full-dipping the top of the screw in machine grease might help, but i don't have such an amount right now and my toothbrush-application just wont' do the trick... I'm looking forward to hear about your WD50 results! Stupid question: What's the difference between WD40 and WD50? i only got WD40 here (and i think i never saw a store in schleswig-holstein selling WD50)
  15. Hi Taxez, in my case the layer skip happens occasionally, but quite consistently after 10-15mm height. I cleaned and lubed my z-screw over and over again, but i could still feel a resistance everytime i moved the z-nut over this area in the thread. Therefore i suspect the screw thread itself to be defective and i will contact UM for replacement. In my frustration, i moved the z-table up and down at least a hundred times, thoroughly cleaning and lubing with toothbrush and magnalube after every ten up/downs or so. I was hoping to flatten the scratch by repetitive movement and although the bug
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