lars-busack

Thanks for your quick reply! I should have clarified this a bit... I have a spare 24V heater cartridge (from UMO+) and some old e3d metal parts, along with an original 12v e3d fan and just wanted to see if i got this semi-original setup running... But now i guess it's easiest to get a new fan. Thank you very much!

Hello everyone, i want to hook up the 12v e3d hotend fan to a UltiMainBoard rev 2.1.4, but i'm scared of the 19-24v output. Did this before on a Solidoodle2 and took the 12V parallel from the power supply, but UMO runs at 24v... I am neither an electronics guy nor a pragrammer, which is why I couldn't get any helpful information around here, although similar questions have already been answered in previous topics. So please excuse my stupidity; i need an answer as simple as possible: Where on the UMB 2.1.4 can i safely connect a single 12V-always-on-fan? It would be really great to do it without soldering resistors or recompiling firmware, as it's just a stupid 12V always-on fullspeed fan... I find it hard to imagine that there isn't any 12v constant output in UMB2.1.4?? Thank you very much in advance, Best regards, Lars

If you're working on a part (.sldprt), you can hide the bodies you don't need to export. Same should apply for assemblies (.sldasm). Step 1: hide unwanted bodies. Step 2: deselect all, then save as STL.

Hey, i have loosened the screws of both bearings that connect build plate and rods, ran the build plate up and down a couple of times and then re-tightened them in the area where most of the 'layer skipping' occured. That was a few months ago and it never happened again. Sorry for not being here such a long time!

Hello, I am planning to print some tests in mid-air with a custom gcode. When i use relative coordinates (G91) in the gcode, will this also affect the extrusion length? So, is it possible to just use constant values for E like this? G1 X 5.00 Y 0.00 Z 2.00 E 0.0024 G1 X 5.00 Y 0.00 Z -2.00 E 0.0024 G1 X 0.00 Y 5.00 Z 2.00 E 0.0024 G1 X 0.00 Y 5.00 Z -2.00 E 0.0024... Or would i have to do it this way? G1 X 5.00 Y 0.00 Z 2.00 E 0.0024 G1 X 5.00 Y 0.00 Z -2.00 E 0.0048 G1 X 0.00 Y 5.00 Z 2.00 E 0.0072 G1 X 0.00 Y 5.00 Z -2.00 E 0.0096... Thank you very much! Lars

...und diesen! Grüße, Lars

0.1 x 47 =4.7mm ->mit first layer +0.3 = 5.0mm ich denke mal, so meintest du das

though i would hate to see you give your printer away: how much for the broken UM2?

I can't imagine how the rods could have been bent in your machine, as it came preassembled... But actually, they don't need to be bent to cause malfunction, i guess... As i assembled the UMO+ myself, i must have somehow put the rods not perfectly parallel and then tightened the bearings screws in a bad position or something like this. i will measure the x-distance of the z-rods with calipers (top, middle and bottom distance) as soon i return home. maybe you can do the same to check if the are really perfectly parallel. nevertheless, i still assume my z-screw isn't perfectly smooth either, and will keep an eye on this issue. i will let you know any results...

Good day, good sirs, i suspected the retract settings as well ( i like to use 4.6mm at 37mm/s ), but then i printed a pair of race vases. No solid Bottom/Top, no infill, 2 perimeters, 190°C, 0.1 layer, 50mm/s. Two of them with and two of them without retract and both were printed flawlessly, aside from stringing. Will try to verify that this wasn't just luck. happens more often with prints that have large X/Y scale, it seems to me. maybe you could print another dummy cylinder with, uh... D=100mm and H=30mm? so it's more likely to get the "desired misbehavior". i will try this in the evening and report back... oh, since i had already taken apart half my build platform yesterday, i thought it could do no harm and unscrew these rod bearings. i must admit, it was no pleasure retightening them with the wooden cover and X/Y motors in the way and therefore i couldn't retighten them exctly in the friction area, as this area is all the way up the z-screw and up there the hex key interferes with the wooden cover... well, at least i tightened them mid-way. during initial assembly, i might have tightened them with the platform all the way down, but i'm not sure. But VOILÀ! Significantly less friction and "sand" sound. Oddly, i have to reset the z-stop, because the cover is in place somewhat different than before... Minor issue, will fix it in the evening and do a 5 hours print to see if there's less z jumping now. gr5, if you were right and the rods have actually been the culprits, i would like to buy you a drink next time i'm in boston!

you have a very interesting point there, gr5! thanks for the hint, i would also hate to get replacement i don't need!

If you feel the same "grinding" at the top of the z-thread as i do, i assume your problem isn't underextrusion. i have upgraded my UMO+ Feeder with double helical gears which dramatically improved extrusion/retract reliability (because the teeth of helicals gears are always touching each other, directly translating the e-stepper motion to the filament.) i don't know if this upgrade is available for UM2, but was worth 6 hours of printing again, i don't know how this applies to UM2, but on my UMO+, there are 2 screws underneath the milled aluminum platform. when i remove these, i can move the (in my case: wooden) cover upwards, away from the platform and then reach the screws of bearings and nuts. so i would only have to remove the z-stepper (with z-screw) and get the wooden cover off the platform instead of disassembling rods and platform completely. I hope this is of any help... I guess the UM2 has a different assembly, but maybe it's similar enough...

Well, you intend to use WD-50 as a cleaner, not as a lubricant, right? I don't believe WD is up to the task of lubing the z-screw and it might be too aggressive as well. I use Nigrin Light Silicone Spray for all rods, but i wouldn't dare to to put it on the screw thread, as it's too thin to withstand the forces between thread and nut, making the thread quality even poorer over time. also, it's quite volatile and tends to run away from where it should be sticking... But i am only an amateur and i'm guessing as always. Maybe someone around here with more profound knowledge of lubrication physics/chemics?

Yeah, same here! Its a slight grinding sound near the top of the screw. Maybe a diiferent lubing technique such as full-dipping the top of the screw in machine grease might help, but i don't have such an amount right now and my toothbrush-application just wont' do the trick... I'm looking forward to hear about your WD50 results! Stupid question: What's the difference between WD40 and WD50? i only got WD40 here (and i think i never saw a store in schleswig-holstein selling WD50)

Hi Taxez, in my case the layer skip happens occasionally, but quite consistently after 10-15mm height. I cleaned and lubed my z-screw over and over again, but i could still feel a resistance everytime i moved the z-nut over this area in the thread. Therefore i suspect the screw thread itself to be defective and i will contact UM for replacement. In my frustration, i moved the z-table up and down at least a hundred times, thoroughly cleaning and lubing with toothbrush and magnalube after every ten up/downs or so. I was hoping to flatten the scratch by repetitive movement and although the bug still occurs once in a while, it seems to fail less frequently now. I absolutely do not advise anyone to do this!!!! As i said, i was frustrated, but at least it did not get worse... For my issue, i was able to narrow down the possible causes to a fault in the thread. Worst cause, i guess. If someone has useful info about how to inspect and repair flaws in the z-screw (if possible?), i would be glad! For example: Would it be a good idea to completey clean the screw and nut with alcohol and then put fresh grease overall? I'm running out of options here and to be honest, i don't want to give up the z screw yet... :smile: in other words, until the replacement arrives, i would like to have tried everything i could. By the way: Although i believe the problem is mechanical, i tried raising the z-stepper acceleration to make sure the stepper gets enough zing to overcome any friction. Yes, i am beginning to treat my z-thread like crap now... :grin: Well, no further improvement so far, but as the firmware default was at the lowest possible setting and could only be changed in steps of 100, i only dared to double this value to 200. Maybe, i will raise this a little more the next time i get upset again... Even if you don't have any problems with your z-steps: Should you ever get bored of the sound your z-motor makes when homing, etc., the z-acceleration value is the one you might wanna tinker with... :wink: UPDATE: Just set the z acceleration to 300. Nice sound. Still skipping layers between 10-18mm height... :(

Moin, mit welcher Geschwindigkeit fährst Du das Bottom Layer? Bei ABS könnstest Du 30-40mm/s probieren. Alle weiteren Layer normal schnell. Ob dein Ultimat für grobe oder feine Arbeiten geegnet ist, hängt IMHO von deinem Nozzle Durchmesser ab. Bei 0.4mm (UM Standard Düse) sind 0.3mm Layer schon problematisch, da stimme ich meinem Vorredner zu. Manche Leute bohren ihre Nozzle auf 0.8mm, um höhere Geschwindigkeiten (durch größere Layer Thickness) zu erreichen. Mich würde interessieren, welchen Durchmesser die Makerbot-Nozzle hat. Ich bin mir nicht ganz sicher, ob es am Filament selbt liegt, aber auf deinem Foto sind zwei Effekte zu erkennen: 1. Die Oberfläche hat unzählige kleine "Blobs" 2. Eine Lücke von mehreren Layern Das Erste klingt für mich nach entweder zu hoher Flow Rate oder zu hoher Temperatur: Es kommt mehr raus als nötig. Das Zweite klingt eher nach dem Gegenteil: Unterextrusion, aber nur einmal kurz. Kann viele Ursachen haben. Ist das Filament auf der Rolle verknotet? Wurde das Filament durch unsauberen Retract "angeknabbert"? Lässt sich die Build Plate gleichmäßig rauf- und runterbewegen, wenn die Motoren aus sind oder hakt sie irgendwo? Manchmal hat das Z-Gewinde kleine Fehler... So oder so: Kannst Du den ersten Effekt verringern und den zweiten Effekt reproduzieren? Schöne Grüße, Lars

Sounds like you should disassemble the hot end and re-tighten the connection between the brass pipe and the heater block. The nozzle itself seems tight enough. Try to carefully turn the PEEK part open while holding the heater block with a wrench or something. If they separate, clean the thread from filament and screw the heaterblock and brass/PEEK part back together, firmly but carefully. Hopefully, this will prevent the pressure inside the print head being released anywhere else but through the nozzle. For quickly cleaning my nozzle from PLA, i heat it up to 170°-180°C., then grab the nozzle with a piece of leather (the raw side out) between my fingers and twist downwards a few times. Works quite well.

Du kannst auch folgendes ausprobieren: - deine Drucktemperatur reduzieren (zB. Ultimaker PLA black wird bei mir ab 220°C deutlich unsauberer als bei 210°C) - deine Druckgeschwindigkeit reduzieren (Manchmal ist die Düse so schnell unterwegs, dass das Filament reisst) - deine Retract-Einstellungen verändern (höhere speed / distance = weniger Stringing, aber mehr Filament-Abrieb)

Moin, also ohne Fotos ist es natürlich schwierig festzustellen, aber wenn deine Wandstärken fast 1mm voneinander abweichen (sofern ich das richtig verstanden hab), solltest Du mal prüfen, ob die beiden kurzen Riemen der X/Y-Motoren gleich straff sind! Bzw. druck dir nen quadratischen Testkörper (XYZ=100x100x5mm) und miss mit nem Messchieber, ob X=Y. Dabei NICHT ganz unten messen, da die untersten Layer meist etwas breiter sind und so das Ergebnis verfälschen könnten!! Wenn X < Y : X-Motor lösen, runterdrücken, festziehen. Wenn X > Y : Y-Motor lösen, runterdrücken, festziehen. (ich hoffe, ich hab das jetzt richtig herum gesagt...) Oder, wenn Du mit mechanischem Tuning nicht mehr weiterkommst: Wenn X = Y, aber größer/kleiner als 100mm : UltiController - Control - Motion: Xsteps/mm und Ysteps/mm verändern, wobei steps(neu) = steps(alt) * 100 / X Beispiel: X gemessen = 99,82mm steps(alt) = +078,74 steps(neu) = steps(alt) * 100 / X steps(neu) = 7874 / 99,82 = 78,8819 steps(neu)= +078,88 Anschließend noch "Store Memory" im Ulticontroller, nochmal den Testkörper drucken und das nächste gemessene X sollte schon deutlich näher bei 100,00mm liegen. Funktioniert natürlich auch direkt mit X ungleich Y, ohne groß an den Riemen rumzuspannen, aber dann muss man sich sehr gut merken/markieren, welche Kante welches Maß hatte und es löst auch das eigentliche Riemenproblem nicht :smile: Keine Ahnung, ob das so alles korrekt ist, aber ich bin mit dieser Methode ziemlich nah an X=Y=100,00mm gekommen, alle Linien sind schön verbunden und Kreise sind perfekt rund - es lohnt sich also! Angaben wie immer ohne Gewähr! :grin: Schöne Grüße, Lars

Das Teil auf dem Foto liegt überkopf, oder? Da sieht man an der rechten Kante, dass sich das Filament in den ersten paar Layers nach innen verzogen hat. Danach könnte es sein, dass die nächsten Layer nicht exakt an die richtige Stelle gelegt werden. Wenn dein Druckbett beheizt ist, könntest Du mit niedrigeren Temperaturen probieren, http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#wallcavein auszugleichen. Auch die Riemen könnten zu locker sein, da stimme ich zu. Ich benutze diese http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19892. Dafür musst Du allerdings die Achsen ausbauen.

Hallo, auch wenn das Problem behoben ist: Der Effekt nennt sich "pillowing", vielleicht hilft Dir der Link beim Feintunen. Ich vermute stark, dass es auch damit zusammenhängt, dass deine Schichtstärke 0.07mm beträgt und deshalb nur sehr sehr wenig Filament extrudiert wird, was dann nicht ausreicht, um die Lücken im Fill zu überbrücken. Es könnte helfen, bei Cura "die Top/Bottom Speed" (nicht Bottom Layer Speed!) auf 25mm/s zu stellen und den Rest normal schnell zu fahren. Schade tatsächlich, dass Cura nicht zwischen Top und Bottom unterscheidet... :( Beim Infill vermute ich, dass es im Grunde ein ähnliches Phänomen sein muss. Hier wäre auch interessant, ob Du "Combing" benutzt und evtl hohe Travel Speed? Diese Kombi führte bei mir schon öfter mal dazu, dass der Druckkopf den Fill aufgerissen hat, was dann Folgefehler in den nächsten Schichten verursachte. Ich habe mit meiner 0.3mm Nozzle auch die Erfahrung gemacht, dass bei Top/Bottom Thickness von 0.6mm eine Layer Thickness von 0.2mm (= 3 Layer Top Fill) trotzdem deutlich weniger Pillowing erzeugt als dasselbe mit 0.1mm Layern (= 6 Layer Top Fill). Dementsprechend sollte der Effekt bei 0.07 noch stärker auftreten. Achso: Welche Flow Rate hast Du bei 195°C bzw. 230°C benutzt? Schöne Grüße, Lars

Thanks for the quick reply! What dou you exactly mean by "tangled filament repairing itself"? Something caused by too-cold over-extrusion? I checked the filament for grinded spots: not the case. I have printed 2.85mm filament at 100% flow at 210°C at 50mm/s with 0.3mm nozzle. Besides, I could swear that the z-step makes a slightly different clicking sound when skipping a layer. I moved the platform up and down carefully and there seems to be a spot where there is a significantly higher friction, but this is about half way down. Maybe rod alignment? Also just noticed that the wooden cover of the Z-axis bearings got loose!!! By its internal tension, it now touches the back of z-rods and and z-screw: I assume there could be a tiny chip of wood in the screw thread. Will clean it with a toothbrush, then re-lube and report back... Obviously, wood chips won't happen on an UM2, but this might be something to check anyway.

Here are the images of 1) Skipped Layer, typical 2) Missing trimpots on new Ultimaker Original+ electronics

Hello everyone, i have experienced a very similar problem. As for me, my Ultimaker Original+ seems to occasionally skip a layer oder two after 10-20mm of printing. Not on every single print, though, but enough to be annoying. You could check the following steps and see if one does the trick for you. - I have checked for filament under-extrusion, which is not the case. - I also added a fan to actively cool the electronics board (19-24V Fan Pins), which also did not get rid of the layer skipping. - I re-lubricated the z-axis very, very well with the supplied MAGNALUBE. Though this can't do any harm, it didn't fix the issue either. - As I read in other threads, the current setting of the z-stepper driver can be lowered to something near 900-1000 mAh, which can be set in the UM2 Controller, BUT NOT on UMO+, as there are trimpots on the UMO electronics board which can be trimmed to a lower value. Unfortunately, my UMO+ was deliviered with a newer electronics board (the white one) which neither seems to have trimpots, nor UltiController settings. :( Could someone think of a way for me to adjust the stepper values? I think this could really be the solution... Or maybe I just did not find the trimpot/setting? I will add pictures of my electronics as soon as I return home. Best regards, Lars