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Everything posted by krys

  1. I just saw this paragraph! I missed it first time. D'oh! If the magnets are press-fit, then the difference between 6.0 (+/- 0.1) and 6.35 (+/-) is huge. In which case I would suggest having version that accommodate North American people. If it is hard to locally get metric magnets in Canada, which is officially a metric country, just think of how difficult it would be for Americans. Then again, they have more scientists, so who knows, but still... If the magnets are glue-on, then designing for imperial would cover all bases, I would imagine. @SyntaxTerror has offered to hook me up, which is great, but I would still advocate for supporting imperial magnets just for ease of purchase worldwide. Just my $0.02. Thanks very much!
  2. Hi! Its possible to buy hardened and/or stainless steel nozzles. There are also chrome-plated brass nozzles as well (assuming they are also plated inside). They change the settings you have to use to print, but it is not a show stopper, I would guess. I am no expert though!
  3. Hi @foehnsturm, Two questions about the magnets: In Canada it is harder to find exact metric sizes for magnets (or anything else it seems! :() than imperial/American/standard/whatever. My math says 1/4 inch is 6.35mm and 1/8 inch is 3.175mm. Would 6.35mm x 3.175mm magnets fit your design? Are they close enough for tolerances, etc.? ... Or should I actually push for precise metric dimensions. Also, how important is the quality of the magnets. Your link, for example says N45. Would N35 be okay or too weak maybe? Would N48 be okay or too strong maybe? I don't know magnets or your tolerances, so I am just trying to figure out strict I need to be with the specs. Anyway, thanks very much!
  4. Hi @lhjordanlh, I don't know if you saw this already, or even if this helps, but I was just browsing on filaments.ca and noticed that eSun's ePA Nylon 6 and ePC polycarbonate are both claiming to meet UL94-V2. Here are some links: https://filaments.ca/collections/2-85mm-3d-filaments/products/epa-nylon-6-natural-3mm https://filaments.ca/collections/2-85mm-3d-filaments/products/epc-polycarbonate-natural-3mm I do not know if they are claiming certification, but I thought I would mention these in case they are possible options for you. Hope it helps! (Also, Yay Canada!)
  5. krys

    Install two versions of cura in linux?

    Hi there, I managed to get 2 versions working on my Ubuntu (15.10?) setup, but it was not straightforward. (Have not gone 16 LTS yet.) I upgraded my main install to (2.1.x at the time, now) 2.3.x. But I installed a 15.x in a chrooted environment (using schroot and generic instructions for app isolation). Now to run 2.x, I just click the icon. To run the 15.x, I open a shell, schroot into the jailed environment, export DISPLAY so cura can find Xorg and then run cura. (This could be further automated, but it's good enough for me.) Also, my chrooted environment does not have access to my SD card reader, so I have to save to disk, then manually copy to SD card. This is probably fixable though. Like I said not straightforward, but it *does* work. Though, I cannot remember exactly how I did it (this was a while ago). But I don't recall it being terribly hard to set up, just not straightforward. Anyway, I hope this helps point you in a useful direction. Try Googling for how to isolate an app, or install multiple versions of an app (Not Cura specifically), using schroot. Then see if you can apply that to Cura. Good luck!
  6. krys

    Tinker firmware - introduction

    Oooh! So true! Only used it once so far, but it really saved by butt.
  7. krys

    Tinker firmware - introduction

    Hi gang, You know what got me to switch to TinkerGnome's firmware? Burn-in on the OLED screen (UM2)! This is how I learned that OLEDs, like old CRTs and unlike the LCDs we are all used to, *do*, in fact, get burn in and ghost images. OLED TVs can have this issue too, apparently. ThinkerGnome's firmware helps in two ways: 1) You can lower the screen brightness, and 2) you can have the screen blank after a while, i.e. a screen saver. That is what made me change. But having changed, I love it for all the other benefits. Better menus, more stats, more control, etc. My only (minor) gripes are that I have had the occasional oddness (a bug here or there, nothing major) and I wish retraction settings were not so buried as I tend to tweak them a lot with all the different materials and manufacturers with which I experiment. Anyway, just wanted to share my experience since I have not seen many/any talk about it. Hope it helps!
  8. MakerGeeks in the US also has a high-temp HTPLA, if that helps.
  9. Hi @Artiz, I don't exactly know. I bought some unbranded polycarbonate on a weird white spool when I first got my printer and before PC-Max or any of these other branded ones existed. I do not know where it comes from or who made it, so I call it generic. The place where I bought it does not even carry it anymore. Later, PC-ABS, PC-Max and ... there is another PC-something, were created. I assume they have been more specially formulated for easier 3D printing, since they have lower temperature requirements, etc. So, if the new ones are easier to print and behave differently, then success with them might not reflect perfect results on the generic stuff I have. Now, I could just get a new spool and go with that, but I still want to see if I can make the old stuff work reliably. I am kind of thinking that if I can make that work, then the newer brands should be a piece of cake! Wolfbite MEGA is on my list to try too. But I have some other potential solutions to try first. I guess I am kind of doing a comparative survey of every method I come across to see what works best. (That said, currently I am addicted to Minecrack, again, so I am not actually progressing on this project. I will swing back to it eventually though.) Anyway, thanks for sharing your experiences! I hope this helps explain what I meant.
  10. krys

    Problems printing in PC

    Hi there! Welcome to the forum. Apologies for the following wall of words. Polycarbonate is a challenging material (read: pain in the butt!). It warps worse then ABS and getting it to stick to the print bed is a real challenge. It also (at least the older, non-optimized stuff) needs higher temperatures, like 300C. Some people have had success though. And I have had some very limited success. A couple questions: 1) What printer are you using? Is it an Ultimaker or something else? The print bed is different on different printers and it makes a difference in your PC experiences. e.g. Ultimaker's have glass plates, TAZes use PEI tape as their surface, etc. 2) Who's PC are you using (what brand)? Is it one of the newer formulations explicitly designed for 3D printing, or just generic PC as a filament? If it is brand name, maybe check out what the company says about getting it to print well. Also I wonder about printing solid. Usually solid is overkill and does not buy you much extra in strength, though maybe it can help reduce warping. The limited success I have had to prevent warping was to use crazy glue on Kapton (polyamide?) tape for the print bed. And cranked the heated bed to 120C. My part still warped, but it warped less, and more importantly, it stayed stuck to the bed. Buildtak seems to be a/the current recommendation, at least for the new optimized brands of PC. But it can be tricky in the other direction where is sticks too well and you cannot separate it from the Buildtak. I have also heard of people using an acrylic sheet as the build plate. PC bonds very well to that, apparently. Maybe check out this: http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate Also, enclosing your printer to contain the heat is important. Search for and solving ABS warping will get you further along the path to reducing/eliminating PC warping issues. One thing I can say for sure: PrintInZ Skins are not a good choice for PC. PC sticks so well, it pulls up the Skin off the build plate and warps anyway! (At least when using the recommended under layer of blue tape.) It also warps the Skin permanently. I had to sand mine down to get a level surface again. Solving PC is current project of mine, but I have not pursued it much yet. Hopefully something I have said here will help you. Good luck!
  11. When I switched to the Tinkergnome firmware, it surprised me because it does indeed remove the old filament at the old temperature, then ask what material the new filament is, then heats up or cools down as is appropriate, then loads the new filament. I think that is exactly what @brett-bellmore is looking for. ... Though, does not the latest stock firmware do this now too (The one bundled with Cura 2.1.3+)? I have a fuzzy impression in my brain that it does, but I could be wrong. Anyway, hope this helps.
  12. krys

    Filament for Greenhouse projects?

    Hi there, Yes, my understanding is ASA is ABS with a UV protectant mixed in. Another approach for UV protection is to print in anything heat resistant then (spray) paint on a UV protectant coating (polyurethane? or just some Krylon paint or something). This is a common practice with plain ABS, I believe, and you can get something suitable at any hardware store. But, ASA might be easier! Then again, ABS/ASA warps, so printing in a high temp PLA or PET and coating it might be less frustration. Anyway, just some thoughts. Hope it helps.
  13. I see, cool! I'll go bug @Valcrow when the time comes. Thanks very much!
  14. krys

    Simplify 3D :/

    I think @neotko is a/the resident S3D expert here. Maybe (s)he can help?
  15. Excellent! Very nice! So, mixing old and new = harder but cheaper. Using new and new means money but easier. Well, I am not afraid of hard. But I also really like the new feeder from the + kit. So if I can get the parts, I might go that way. Not sure I want to buy a whole other upgrade kit though. It is kind of expensive! Then again having a second Olsson block would be good too. ... I guess I will shop for parts and weigh my options. If explanations and a BOM are coming, then I will wait for those. I have other things to keep me occupied for now. Thanks very much for the feedback!
  16. I see. Well, you are sitting on a gold mine, I believe. Maybe Ultimaker can make and sell an experimental kit for you or something. Anyway, I did do the UM2+ upgrade, so I have all the old parts laying around anyway. And I already use TinkerGnome's firmware, so.... Hmm... This seems doable. Now you have the old hamster running in my head! I will have to cue this up after my backlog of prints and solving polycarbonate adhesion, but I think I am going to try this. One question then: If I make the modification, but want to print non-dual, normal prints. Are there any extra difficulties / negative complications / extra settings to make that work? Or is it just proceed as normal? I guess I am going to have to re-read this whole topic too. Anyway, thanks for the great design and thanks for sharing!
  17. Man, I am totally drooling over this dual head setup! I am willing to throw money at anyone that makes this a buyable product/upgrade. I can haz upgradez? I know it takes time to make that kind of thing happen, but the wait is killing me! Then again, I do not want a rushed/half-baked product either. Damn it, I need patience ... or better yet, a time machine! Anyway, I am super impressed! Great Job @foehnsturm! You are a 3D printing rock star!
  18. It works with PrintInZ Skin. Don't see why it would not work in principle for anything. I am not expert though.
  19. I did the same thing, but I am testing the PrintInZ skin. This was good because PrintInZ does not like polycarbonate! Also, my old glass was slightly warped and missing a chunk (either XT or Nylon's fault, can't remember), so I wanted a new glass anyway. But yes, I recommend having a second glass plate when you start playing with sheets and other special adhesion techniques. I really want to try the Ultimaker sheets too, but I don't need the whole kit. Oh well, got Buildtak to test first anyway. @Valcrow: Please keep up posted on your experiences!
  20. krys

    Problems printing with Taulman Nylon 618

    Hi WXML, I do not know anything about gyroids or anything. And I am no expert on nylon, but here is a couple things I have learned since I got my printer: 1) Nylon warps worse than ABS, in general, apparently. 2) 618 was one of Taulman's earliest versions. After that their Bridge nylon claims less warping and easier printing. 3) Have Bridge and it prints quite easily, but it still warps quite a bit, so use brims, glue, etc. 4) I have read on the forums here that 618 is quite hard to work with. Bridge is easier. But there are old forum poses about printing 618 specifically. So, not super helpful, but hope it helps a bit. Good luck!
  21. Hi folks, I have run into a strange new issue and I am not sure how to resolve it. Some help would be much appreciated. I have, up until yesterday, been running @Tinkergnome 16.07 on my UM2+. Today, I upgrades to the stock version in Cura 2.1.3, then upgraded again to Tinkergnome 16.08.1. Now, homing the head does not work correctly and I get the error message "X or Y switch broken". Using Expert funtions -> Move axis, I can move the Y and Z axes, but X does not move. Here is the weird part: Returning to stock firmware either the 15.x that comes with Cura 2.1.3 or the 15.y that comes with Cura 15.whatever_is_current, the X axis moves just fine and homing works just fine. So it is not hardware. But, even returning now to Tinkergnome 16.07, which worked yesterday, now no longer works, giving the same error as 16.08.1. And that is where I am stuck. Can someone help? Is this a bug in Tinker or the new Cura 2.1.3 firmware? Is this some weird missing e-steps or motor current or something? I am guessing it is something new saved to EEPROM, but I am not sure how to diagnose this. I looked in Motion control in Tinker and there are numbers there, but I do not know what I am looking at. (Ideally I would like to not have to do factory reset and lose my lovely usage stats, but I really like and need TinkerGnome's firmware.) Anyway, any insights would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  22. I finally had a chance to try 16.08.2 out this weekend. So far so good. I will keep poking it with a stick and see if it bites me. I will let you know. Also, something I experienced only twice in 16.07 was that part way through the occasional print, it would stop and say error trying to print outside build volume, or some such. I was able to use (even without power-cycling) the Recover option and recover the prints just fine, so no worries, but I thought I would mention it. It did not happen often, only twice total. It failed with different models and at different Z heights. But then, would recover just fine. Anyway, maybe it is already fixed in this new version. I will watch for it. Also also, thank you very much for the Recover Print option! It maybe be slow, but it is super cool! Anyway, I will speak up it I notice anything else. Otherwise, thanks very much for the great firmware. I, for one, appreciate your hard work.
  23. You mean you don't secretly put in bits of code to induce random failures for the sheer evil joy of it all? Man, you are missing out on all the fun!
  24. Hi there, Turning off combing resolves the issue, at the cost of more time and more retractions. Cura 15 has a Combing: No Skin option that I think also solves the issue. I also heard there is a plugin that will do z hop on combing on the top surface, or something like that. Cura 2.1.3 does not have the Combing: No Skin option, but the new 2.3 beta does get it back. But it is still beta. Anyway, that is what I have read and what I have experienced. I too have been wondering about this forever and only recently started finding answers. Anyway, good luck! Hope this helps.
  25. Ah, okay, I see. So if someone wants your firmware, but does not want the bleeding edge, then (currently) 16.03.1 will get the job done for most people. 16.07..08..etc is YMMV and Here Be Dragons. Got it. Thanks very much for all your hard work! Glad I could help find a new bug to wrestle!

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