krys
-
Posts
820 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
10
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by krys
-
-
Hi @lhjordanlh,
I don't know if you saw this already, or even if this helps, but I was just browsing on filaments.ca and noticed that eSun's ePA Nylon 6 and ePC polycarbonate are both claiming to meet UL94-V2. Here are some links:
https://filaments.ca/collections/2-85mm-3d-filaments/products/epa-nylon-6-natural-3mm
https://filaments.ca/collections/2-85mm-3d-filaments/products/epc-polycarbonate-natural-3mm
I do not know if they are claiming certification, but I thought I would mention these in case they are possible options for you.
Hope it helps!
(Also, Yay Canada!)
-
Hi there,
I managed to get 2 versions working on my Ubuntu (15.10?) setup, but it was not straightforward. (Have not gone 16 LTS yet.)
I upgraded my main install to (2.1.x at the time, now) 2.3.x. But I installed a 15.x in a chrooted environment (using schroot and generic instructions for app isolation).
Now to run 2.x, I just click the icon. To run the 15.x, I open a shell, schroot into the jailed environment, export DISPLAY so cura can find Xorg and then run cura. (This could be further automated, but it's good enough for me.)
Also, my chrooted environment does not have access to my SD card reader, so I have to save to disk, then manually copy to SD card. This is probably fixable though.
Like I said not straightforward, but it *does* work. Though, I cannot remember exactly how I did it (this was a while ago). But I don't recall it being terribly hard to set up, just not straightforward.
Anyway, I hope this helps point you in a useful direction. Try Googling for how to isolate an app, or install multiple versions of an app (Not Cura specifically), using schroot. Then see if you can apply that to Cura.
Good luck!
-
Another reason to switch:
Continue failed print! What an amazing feature!
Also it's so easy to do. Afterwards you will be wondering why you waited so long.
Oooh! So true! Only used it once so far, but it really saved by butt.
-
Hi gang,
You know what got me to switch to TinkerGnome's firmware? Burn-in on the OLED screen (UM2)! This is how I learned that OLEDs, like old CRTs and unlike the LCDs we are all used to, *do*, in fact, get burn in and ghost images. OLED TVs can have this issue too, apparently.
ThinkerGnome's firmware helps in two ways: 1) You can lower the screen brightness, and 2) you can have the screen blank after a while, i.e. a screen saver.
That is what made me change. But having changed, I love it for all the other benefits. Better menus, more stats, more control, etc.
My only (minor) gripes are that I have had the occasional oddness (a bug here or there, nothing major) and I wish retraction settings were not so buried as I tend to tweak them a lot with all the different materials and manufacturers with which I experiment.
Anyway, just wanted to share my experience since I have not seen many/any talk about it.
Hope it helps!
-
MakerGeeks in the US also has a high-temp HTPLA, if that helps.
-
Wolfbite MEGA has actually worked well for me but only with Polymaker's PC-Max.
What exactly is "plain old classic polycarb"?
Hi @Artiz,I don't exactly know. I bought some unbranded polycarbonate on a weird white spool when I first got my printer and before PC-Max or any of these other branded ones existed. I do not know where it comes from or who made it, so I call it generic. The place where I bought it does not even carry it anymore.
Later, PC-ABS, PC-Max and ... there is another PC-something, were created. I assume they have been more specially formulated for easier 3D printing, since they have lower temperature requirements, etc.
So, if the new ones are easier to print and behave differently, then success with them might not reflect perfect results on the generic stuff I have.
Now, I could just get a new spool and go with that, but I still want to see if I can make the old stuff work reliably.
I am kind of thinking that if I can make that work, then the newer brands should be a piece of cake!Wolfbite MEGA is on my list to try too. But I have some other potential solutions to try first. I guess I am kind of doing a comparative survey of every method I come across to see what works best.
(That said, currently I am addicted to Minecrack, again, so I am not actually progressing on this project. I will swing back to it eventually though.)
Anyway, thanks for sharing your experiences! I hope this helps explain what I meant.
-
Hi there! Welcome to the forum.
Apologies for the following wall of words.
Polycarbonate is a challenging material (read: pain in the butt!). It warps worse then ABS and getting it to stick to the print bed is a real challenge. It also (at least the older, non-optimized stuff) needs higher temperatures, like 300C.
Some people have had success though. And I have had some very limited success.
A couple questions:
1) What printer are you using? Is it an Ultimaker or something else? The print bed is different on different printers and it makes a difference in your PC experiences. e.g. Ultimaker's have glass plates, TAZes use PEI tape as their surface, etc.
2) Who's PC are you using (what brand)? Is it one of the newer formulations explicitly designed for 3D printing, or just generic PC as a filament? If it is brand name, maybe check out what the company says about getting it to print well.
Also I wonder about printing solid. Usually solid is overkill and does not buy you much extra in strength, though maybe it can help reduce warping.
The limited success I have had to prevent warping was to use crazy glue on Kapton (polyamide?) tape for the print bed. And cranked the heated bed to 120C. My part still warped, but it warped less, and more importantly, it stayed stuck to the bed.
Buildtak seems to be a/the current recommendation, at least for the new optimized brands of PC. But it can be tricky in the other direction where is sticks too well and you cannot separate it from the Buildtak.
I have also heard of people using an acrylic sheet as the build plate. PC bonds very well to that, apparently.
Maybe check out this: http://reprap.org/wiki/Polycarbonate
Also, enclosing your printer to contain the heat is important. Search for and solving ABS warping will get you further along the path to reducing/eliminating PC warping issues.
One thing I can say for sure: PrintInZ Skins are not a good choice for PC. PC sticks so well, it pulls up the Skin off the build plate and warps anyway! (At least when using the recommended under layer of blue tape.) It also warps the Skin permanently. I had to sand mine down to get a level surface again.
Solving PC is current project of mine, but I have not pursued it much yet. Hopefully something I have said here will help you.
Good luck!
-
It would be indeed better if the firmware would ask for the new material before loading. Maybe this is something for @Tinkergnome?
When I switched to the Tinkergnome firmware, it surprised me because it does indeed remove the old filament at the old temperature, then ask what material the new filament is, then heats up or cools down as is appropriate, then loads the new filament.
I think that is exactly what @brett-bellmore is looking for.
... Though, does not the latest stock firmware do this now too (The one bundled with Cura 2.1.3+)? I have a fuzzy impression in my brain that it does, but I could be wrong.
Anyway, hope this helps.
-
Hi there,
Yes, my understanding is ASA is ABS with a UV protectant mixed in.
Another approach for UV protection is to print in anything heat resistant then (spray) paint on a UV protectant coating (polyurethane? or just some Krylon paint or something). This is a common practice with plain ABS, I believe, and you can get something suitable at any hardware store.
But, ASA might be easier! Then again, ABS/ASA warps, so printing in a high temp PLA or PET and coating it might be less frustration.
Anyway, just some thoughts. Hope it helps.
-
You can just use the old head components, and only add a new + feeder, which should be available as a preassembled loose part from UM distributors now (or at least in the very near future).
They may not actively advertise it on there website, so ask them....
I see, cool! I'll go bug @Valcrow when the time comes.
Thanks very much!
-
I think @neotko is a/the resident S3D expert here. Maybe (s)he can help?
-
Single extrusion will just work as usual. This dual approach doesn't require any modifications to be made to the standard single extrusion setup. That's really one of the most charming features.
If you leave the 2nd printhead and its docking station in place you'll loose about 25 mm printing space in y direction. But it's a click on/off mount, so you can easily remove it and use the full printing area.
You don't have to read this entire topic. There will be detailed explanations, a BOM and all required files available here in the near future.
Mixing an old UM2 feeder and a 2+ feeder is not the easiest way but possible. As far as I know this requires gcode with relative e values and resetting steps per e with every tool change. Tinkergnome should know more about it.
Excellent! Very nice!
So, mixing old and new = harder but cheaper. Using new and new means money but easier. Well, I am not afraid of hard. But I also really like the new feeder from the + kit. So if I can get the parts, I might go that way. Not sure I want to buy a whole other upgrade kit though. It is kind of expensive!
Then again having a second Olsson block would be good too. ... I guess I will shop for parts and weigh my options.If explanations and a BOM are coming, then I will wait for those. I have other things to keep me occupied for now.
Thanks very much for the feedback!
-
@krys, Thank you!
Unfortunately there will be no opportunity to throw your money at me or anyone else
Instead, you will have to get hold of a 2nd drive train (feeder + hotend, like the UM2+ upgrade kit), print a few parts, follow detailed instructions on how to assemble them and download a customized firmware.
So, not the all-in package, but way cheaper and doable for any average UM2 or UM2+ user.
I see. Well, you are sitting on a gold mine, I believe.
Maybe Ultimaker can make and sell an experimental kit for you or something.Anyway, I did do the UM2+ upgrade, so I have all the old parts laying around anyway. And I already use TinkerGnome's firmware, so.... Hmm... This seems doable. Now you have the old hamster running in my head!
I will have to cue this up after my backlog of prints and solving polycarbonate adhesion, but I think I am going to try this.One question then: If I make the modification, but want to print non-dual, normal prints. Are there any extra difficulties / negative complications / extra settings to make that work? Or is it just proceed as normal?
I guess I am going to have to re-read this whole topic too.
Anyway, thanks for the great design and thanks for sharing!
-
Man, I am totally drooling over this dual head setup! I am willing to throw money at anyone that makes this a buyable product/upgrade. I can haz upgradez?
I know it takes time to make that kind of thing happen, but the wait is killing me! Then again, I do not want a rushed/half-baked product either. Damn it, I need patience ... or better yet, a time machine!
Anyway, I am super impressed! Great Job @foehnsturm! You are a 3D printing rock star!
-
1
-
-
Maybe the trick with the freezer works too for the sheets?
It works with PrintInZ Skin. Don't see why it would not work in principle for anything. I am not expert though.
-
I think buying a spare glass panel would also be good with this kit, ( I just happen to have one )
This way you can have one set up with the adhesive sheet on it and the other without. Then you can just swap out the glass if you want to print TPU etc so you don't waste a sheet.
I did the same thing, but I am testing the PrintInZ skin. This was good because PrintInZ does not like polycarbonate!
Also, my old glass was slightly warped and missing a chunk (either XT or Nylon's fault, can't remember), so I wanted a new glass anyway.
But yes, I recommend having a second glass plate when you start playing with sheets and other special adhesion techniques. I really want to try the Ultimaker sheets too, but I don't need the whole kit. Oh well, got Buildtak to test first anyway.
@Valcrow: Please keep up posted on your experiences!
-
Hi WXML,
I do not know anything about gyroids or anything. And I am no expert on nylon, but here is a couple things I have learned since I got my printer:
1) Nylon warps worse than ABS, in general, apparently.
2) 618 was one of Taulman's earliest versions. After that their Bridge nylon claims less warping and easier printing.
3) Have Bridge and it prints quite easily, but it still warps quite a bit, so use brims, glue, etc.
4) I have read on the forums here that 618 is quite hard to work with. Bridge is easier. But there are old forum poses about printing 618 specifically.
So, not super helpful, but hope it helps a bit. Good luck!
-
I had some spare time yesterday and followed your suggestion... There's a new release with new secret codes - you have permission to proceed and find the random failures!
I finally had a chance to try 16.08.2 out this weekend. So far so good. I will keep poking it with a stick and see if it bites me. I will let you know.
Also, something I experienced only twice in 16.07 was that part way through the occasional print, it would stop and say error trying to print outside build volume, or some such. I was able to use (even without power-cycling) the Recover option and recover the prints just fine, so no worries, but I thought I would mention it. It did not happen often, only twice total. It failed with different models and at different Z heights. But then, would recover just fine. Anyway, maybe it is already fixed in this new version. I will watch for it.
Also also, thank you very much for the Recover Print option! It maybe be slow, but it is super cool!
Anyway, I will speak up it I notice anything else. Otherwise, thanks very much for the great firmware. I, for one, appreciate your hard work.
-
Hey, just to clarify...
The "YMMV" was totally unintended!
You mean you don't secretly put in bits of code to induce random failures for the sheer evil joy of it all? Man, you are missing out on all the fun!
-
Hi there,
Turning off combing resolves the issue, at the cost of more time and more retractions. Cura 15 has a Combing: No Skin option that I think also solves the issue. I also heard there is a plugin that will do z hop on combing on the top surface, or something like that.
Cura 2.1.3 does not have the Combing: No Skin option, but the new 2.3 beta does get it back. But it is still beta.
Anyway, that is what I have read and what I have experienced. I too have been wondering about this forever and only recently started finding answers.
Anyway, good luck! Hope this helps.
-
Ah, okay, I see. So if someone wants your firmware, but does not want the bleeding edge, then (currently) 16.03.1 will get the job done for most people. 16.07..08..etc is YMMV and Here Be Dragons.
Got it.Thanks very much for all your hard work! Glad I could help find a new bug to wrestle!
-
Hi again,
Just a small update:
1) I checked the Printing area settings, as suggested. They were indeed all set to 0. So, you were right about that being the source of the issue.
2) I did a factory reset with the stock version from Cura 2.1.3. Then I put in Tinker 16.08.1 and factory reset again. This fixed the original issue and the Print area setting were set properly, but I ran into a new issue.
3) In 16.08.1, after factory reset, when I tried printing something it would not raise the bed all the way up and started printing in air. More specifically, It would move the nozzle to front, heat up, raise the bed part way, start purging, but then start printing without raising the bed the rest of the way. :(
4) After trying a bunch of things, I downgraded to 16.07 and factory reset again. This made everything work properly. I am not sure what is up with 16.08.1, but it does not like me. Anyway, I will stick with 16.07 for now.
5) Question for you @TinkerGnome: Why is the 16.07 release not listed anymore on your Github releases page? Do you replace your "in development" release and only keep the latest up? Or is it something else? If you do replace releases, why is 16.03.1 there, for example? Is that the last stable version or something? Just wondering about your workflow/release strategy, from one code monkey to another.
Anyway, thanks again for the help!
-
I am guessing it is something new saved to EEPROM, but I am not sure how to diagnose this. I looked in Motion control in Tinker and there are numbers there, but I do not know what I am looking at.
It's probably not motor current or steps, that would affect the standard firmware too.
My suspicion is the "printing area". Can you take a look at this? If in doubt - take pictures of the relevant screens.
(Ideally I would like to not have to do factory reset and lose my lovely usage stats, but I really like and need TinkerGnome's firmware.)
The runtime statistics are preserved during a factory reset, but i would make a backup of the material profiles, if you've made customizations...
D'oh! I just saw this post. I totally missed it before. Not sure how that happened.
Okay, so I will look at printing area before I reset. Also, I will reset and keep my stats, so I am happy! Happy Panda!
Lol. Thanks very much!
-
Downgrading without a factory reset will not restore any settings in EEPROM - and not all settings can be changed with gcodes or the printers menu - no luck.
Okay, so I am buggered. Either I stay stock, since it is working, or I give up my stats and do a factory reset. So be it. Factory reset, here I come. :(
Thanks for the help! You rock!
... (hmm... now I am thinking about a stats editor patch for the firmware. It could make a fun learning project, given my existing Arduino and coding experience.)
EDIT: See my next post.
A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Hi @foehnsturm,
Two questions about the magnets:
In Canada it is harder to find exact metric sizes for magnets (or anything else it seems! :() than imperial/American/standard/whatever. My math says 1/4 inch is 6.35mm and 1/8 inch is 3.175mm. Would 6.35mm x 3.175mm magnets fit your design? Are they close enough for tolerances, etc.? ... Or should I actually push for precise metric dimensions.
Also, how important is the quality of the magnets. Your link, for example says N45. Would N35 be okay or too weak maybe? Would N48 be okay or too strong maybe?
I don't know magnets or your tolerances, so I am just trying to figure out strict I need to be with the specs.
Anyway, thanks very much!