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Everything posted by krys

  1. All good points. I have previously learned how to blue tape and re-level and alcohol, etc., as you say, so I did not think about the learning curve. I was trying to get this to print a while ago: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:986729. But the undersides were always rough. When I went cold bed and 0.15 layer height (vs 0.1), I was able to get nice clean curved undersides. Virtually flawless, actually. I was just thinking that same technique could apply here, though I did not bother when I printed the OPs piece. But as you say, that is a whole bit of new learning and retooling too. Anyway, YMMV. If there is a different/better way, I would sure be interested in hearing about it. Oh, and I was assuming PLA. I would not suggest cold bed for ABS.
  2. Also, turn off the heated bed (bed temp set to 0) and use blue painters tape for adhesion. Radiated heat from the bed makes overhangs like that rougher/saggier. Also, consider that since that specific part will be inserted into the outer case, that the looks of the underside are not that important. Especially compared to getting a nice clean square for the socket to attach to.
  3. Noe and Perdo over at adafruit.com also have this guide: https://learn.adafruit.com/using-1-dot-75mm-filament-on-ultimaker-2/overview I've not done this though. YMMV. gr5 is god.
  4. Oh, and I just saw this, if it helps: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18249-creating-m6-thread
  5. Hi gang, I don't know Fusion360, but I did do some metric threading stuff last year that you might be interested in. I used openSCAD. The results are at: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/openscad-metric-nut-bolt-threads-library And the tread about it is at: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5548-experiment-with-threads (the bottom of page 2 is where things are working and there are images). I have not touched it since, but I hope it helps or is of interest.
  6. Hi there. I have done some printing in Taulman Bridge nylon on my UM2 and it worked well. It took me a bit to dial in the right settings (and I do not remember them at the moment), but I was able to print large pill box/parts cases using the full bed. Only a little warping. The cases were flexible when complete, but they were also thin-walled. I also read that the E-nable prosthetic hand people have experimented with more solid nylon prints to good effect. I do not know if this helps with gears, but nylon is totally doable on UM(2) printers. One heads up: If you let the bed cool too much before removing the print, you can pull up chunks of glass! So, keep the bed warm (45+) when removing the part. (Same goes for T-Glass too, I believe). Anyway, hope this helps. I can dig up my settings if anyone is interested.
  7. Hi folks, If it helps, I print XT and T-Glass at 240 and it seem decent enough in strength, and no burnt bits. For example, I have printed replacement dowel pegs for my futon in T-Glase @ 240 and they are plenty strong enough to support 2-3 people weight over at least a year. (Use more shells and infill for strength.) That said, I have had burnt bits and other black spots, and doing several atomic pulls to really clean things out solved the issue. Also, if my previous prints are in black ABS, then I get dark spots. Same solution though, atomic pulls. I forget my nylon (Taulman Bridge) temperature, but same issue, and same solution. Anyway, hope this helps.
  8. I also really like FormFutura. Especially their yellow. (Much better than Colorfabb's yellow, for example. I mean in terms of colour.) I did have some bed adhesion issues with my FormFutura, easily solved with glue stick, but I was also still just learning to print. For structural stuff, I prefer Colorfabb, because PLA/PHA is better than plain PLA. But FormFutura is quality stuff and fantastic colours. Hope this helps.
  9. Hey gang, Just wanted to post that the replacement stickers finally arrived. It looks like there was a mixup at the post office or something, but they eventually found there way. Just wanted to say thanks very much to Valcrow and SandervG for helping me out. I have been nothing but happy with my printer and upgrade kit since I got them. (Except for the no-dual-extrusion-thing) . My upgrade is now officially complete!
  10. Hi there, I can share some experiences. I agree with gr5, PLA/PHA from Colorfabb is just categorically superior to plain PLA. It's just so much easier to work with and it is stronger too. It just works 99% of the time. That said, I will add: For rich, vibrant and wide colour selection, I have not seen better than Faberdashery. Top quality and fantastic colours. Expensive (for me) though. For prototyping, I buy cheap stuff, preferably from a local supplier. Adhesion issues are easily solved with glue stick and as long as it is not super brittle, cheap is better for prototypes when designing custom stuff. (I did have a supper brittle spool recently and it drove me up a freaking wall. I was very annoyed with it. So heads up!) Colorfabb is my go to, workhorse filament though. Finally, I will say that for yellow, I do not like Colorfabb! It's too orange to my eyes when compared with other yellow filaments. My favourite yellow actually comes from Form Futura, though I did have occasional adhesion troubles with it. Then again, I was still learning how to use my printer back then too! Anyway, I hope this helps.
  11. Bonjour romain, La caméra de Rasberry Pi est different des caméras USB. Cherchez pour OctoPi. C'est un version d'Octoprint specializé pour Rasberry Pi qui inclue support pour la caméra Raspberry Pi. Bonne chance!
  12. That's good to know. I will definitely keep that in mind. I got impatient and ordered it from Gr5 though. Sorry. But it's good to know about the off-menu ordering option. Thanks again!
  13. Hi again, Ever consider stocking the I2K thing from 3dsolex? It seems that with that + tinkergnome, printing polycarb and/or PEEK at 270-300 should be possible without an all metal hot end. Especially now that the PTFE connector is now TFM. Or maybe stocking that kind of stuff is not possible/interesting, or there is not enough interest? I am just thinking that "all things Canadian & Ultimaker" would be even better if you stocked most/all the crazy and popular mod parts too. (e.g. Creatr's dual-extrusion kit, buildtak. pei tape, 1.75mm conversion kit, ... thin perfboard sheets and other alternative beds coverings, pre-cut acrylic sheets for door and top cover for ABS printing, pre-build OctoPi setups, with case, camera and UM2 mounting bits, etc.) ... But I guess that is a lot of work to set up and if no one buys them, then that would suck. Anyway, just some thoughts from someone who prefers to buy local. I guess I am just dreaming out loud.
  14. Hi there, I know nothing of LDPE, but I have played with other special plastics and read a lot. People say ABS sticks to Kapton (polyamide?) tape, with or without glue. I've used crazy glue (cyanoacrylate?) glue on Kapton to get polycarbonate to stick (it mostly worked, but some warping on my single experiment). There are also products like BuildTak and PEI tape that seem to be popular. Also, others swear by super hold hair spray. I have also seen people put a thin sheet of pegboard on top of the glass plate, so that the plastic can stick into the small holes. This would make for a rough bottom, but as a last resort.... Also, is LDPE dissolvable? Maybe you can make an LDPE version of ABS juice. You would probably want to see what the dissolving agent does to you glass plate, though, first. Anyway, I have not tried all these things myself, but maybe these ideas can point you in the right direction. Question: why LDPE? If you gain any success, please share your results/insights it with the community. I have not read of anyone else trying LDPE, so your insights would be valuable. Good luck!
  15. Noe and Pedro over at Adafruit have a bunch of Fusion 360 and some 123D tutorials specifically related to 3D printing. They have a Youtube channel with all the stuff (their Layer by Layer series, for example). Plus they might have some written stuff on learn.adafruit.com. That said, I am a fan of openSCAD. I like that I can write code to make models and use mathematical relationships between parts when making adjustments. But, I also cannot make really fancy or artistic stuff like Labern's cannon, for example. Anyway, hope this helps.
  16. Interesting! I would not have thought it would make much of a difference. I would expect the sharp area to be more precise, but I guess the flat area takes the maximum diameter over a wider area. I will see what kind of a difference that makes. Thanks!
  17. I was going to ask you anyway, so go for it! I was not sure if resellers had spares. I will pm Valcrow. Thanks very much!
  18. Hi Valcrow. I did not know/remember that you were Shop3d.ca. Cool! (Beautiful wind turbine, btw.) I will pm you shortly. I was not sure if resellers would have extra stickers/parts, or I would have gone to shop3d.ca first. Thanks so much!
  19. Thanks Labern. (Love your fan shroud btw) It's good to crosscheck with other people's experiences. From what you have said, I think I will have to take a much close look at my caliper and my measuring technique. I have gone through several Colorfabb spools and not one has ever been above 2.54 by my measurements, so I am pretty sure it's not Colorfabb, it's me. Thanks again.
  20. Hi there, Something has been bugging me for a while now. I am hoping someone can help clear things up for me. My UM2 wants 2.85mm diameter. My Colorfabb filament says it's 2.85mm. I read that it is good to measure one's filament to get the best results. But when I measure my Colorfabb or any other filament with my digital calliper, I consistently get around 2.54mm or less. And sometimes I think I am getting over-extrusion when using my measured values. So, questions: Is this normal? Should I be getting closer to 2.85? Should I be doubting my calliper? Or is there some difference between cold and hot filament, or measuring horizontally vs vertically (relative to the curvature of the filament)? Basically, what I am missing? Does it really matter that much? How precise should I be for best results? Does my 2+ upgrade change how I should think about this? I can add that when I first got my printer, the 2.85 default worked just fine. I did not discover the idea of measuring filament until I got to the last 1/3 of the spool and was having under-extrusion issues (as was common before 2+). Measuring also led me to always edit the filament diameter whenever I changed filament (Material -> Customize -> Diameter), which was fine but less than ideal, I guess. Anyway, any wisdom shared would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  21. Ah, I see. Okay, so for now, would you suggest I just use the PLA (or ABS) setting for all weird materials? I.e. is there a current setting I and get by with for now? Or should I go back to the old Cura for now? Thanks very much!
  22. Hi SandervG, I finally was able to get back to this. I have now quadruple checked. I do not have them. Either I did not get them, or Gremlins/Cats ate them. Thanks so much for helping me out. Please let me know what I need to do to make this happen. (I really should not be this excited by stickers, but... I am!)
  23. Hi folks, I have recently upgraded my UM2 with the extrusion upgrade kit. I have also upgraded Cura to 2.1.2 to check it out. I am confused, however, by the Material setting in Cura (not in the printer). You can choose PLA, ABS or CPE. But I do no see a way to add other materials? What about XT and PLA/PHA and Polycarbonate and Ninjaflex, etc. etc.? Also, if the firmware is supposed to keep track of the material being used, why does the new Cura need to know? I looked at some generated gcode comparing PLA to ABS and the gcode is different is some places? Is this an optimization or something? if so, then again, what about other materials? Finally, I think I saw a screenshot somewhere of 2.1.x that did not have the Material option. So, I am wondering if maybe it is just not supposed to show up form UM2s. (Maybe for UMOs or when doing USB printing?) Anyway, I am just wondering if anyone can help un-confuse me? Thanks very much!
  24. So, I2K yes and shorter spacer, not shorter TFM. Got it. Thanks very much!
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