Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by gareee

  1. The bowden is tight at both ends. I'm already running hatchbox filament temp pretty low.. its rating is 180-210, it seems to print best at 184, and if I leave the printer on its default 210 it actually liquefies and drips out!

    Something else thats been bothering me, is when the head travels across infill or edges, sometimes it seems to hit slightly. (Not causing print issues, but I'd think that it would be travelling up above that.)

    I don't get the stringing with matterhacker pro and get it slightly with the um silver included with the printer.

  2. I've been trying to troubleshoot some issues, and came across this in the last day or so on my U2+ extended.

    If I increase print speed say, to 150%, the entire print shifts forward 1/8th of an inch or so. If I slow it back down, it shifts back to where it originally started. This shouldn't be happening, should it? Is there a way to correct this?

    I've also been having a possibly related issue of late as well. It seems one of the set screws on one of my pulleys that moves the head front to back keeps coming loose every other day. This shouldn't be happening either, correct?

    I haven't come across any other posts about this issue anywhere else.

  3. I want to increase retraction of the printer to try to correct issues. What exactly do length and speed do?

    (Does length mean the distance it calculates before retraction, or the amount of retraction it pulls?)

    I'm not sure if I should be increasing the numbers or decreasing them.

    (I'm getting some stringing and occasional thread fingers sticking out.)

  4. Oh, wow! I hadn't seen that feature! That might come in handy for translucent filament prints where you want to print to pick up lights from inside. I wonder if this feature could be extended into repeatable patterns of some sort?

  5. The latest stable version of cura is 15.04.4.. you list 15.04.3

    I wonder if you have an older buggy cura version installed? I'd uninstall cura, redownload it from the link here, and reinstall it. The first time you open it, before doing anything, save the profile out named default cura install or something like that so you have the install profile to restore if you muck things up. Print ONE small thing thing to see if its printing properly.. a 1x1x1 cm cube or something like that.

  6. I've seen posts that say it depends on the brand of pla.. some brands vapor smooth, and others don't. Odds a a clear coat of gloss rattlecan spray pan will have much the same effect. One is subtractive, smoothing the existing surface, one is additive, adding a gloss layer. chemically, a gloss paint add some micro fill to a surface to achieve the glossy appearance. A dull coat actually adds micro texture to the surface, which is why its not glossy.

    • Like 1
  7. How do you prevent the case from wobbling if you print it vertically, as i get wobbling if i print to high and too thin, especially near the top?


    You can increase the brim size, or manually add some stabilization supports in a 3d modeller program like Blender. Also, slowing it down once you get higher helps.

    • Like 1
  8. I know they were talking the end of Feb as a hopeful new beta release timeframe.. I wonder if its been delayed any further.

    I'm hoping for some change to how supports are handled with larger nozzles.. I just did a print with the .8mm and supports, and the supports were so thick and hard that even removing them with a dremel was a chore. I like the 8mm can print larger objects faster, but if cleanup it s major pita, I'll stick with the .4mm nozzle.

  9. Since I'm painting 99% of what I'm printing, the print lines don't bother me at all. I just did the gcreate rocket, and it was first sprayed with the rustoleum to reduce the line details, and then oversprayed with copper. Detail colors will then be added, and I might then add weathering as well. As a long time scale modeler, I expect to do paint ops on almost everything.

  10. Since layer height changes are based on the side view, I'd think it would be fairly easy to do a box selection and just input height changes for that selection. Change the display color of each layer height difference, and you have a very easy visual display for users, and something relatively easy to code, since they already have the layer view code... they would just need to change the draw color based on height. I've seen that type of editing in 3d modelling applications for ages.

    • Like 1
  11. There might have been talk about this back when the olssen block came out, but what would you use the .6mm and .8mm nozzles for?

    I get that the .25 is great for small stuff like jewelry, and I printed something larger with the .8mm yesterday. I'm printing with the .6mm right now, but since there was no real documentation about them (other than how to swap them out) what would be good uses for the two larger nozzels?

    .4 seems to be the best "go to" nozzle so far.

    Maybe for a larger print with 100% infill for strength, like a coat hook, or hardware?

  12. Going with the 1/2 the nozzle size formula for the level size worked. I managed to go down to .3 and get a good print. Temps were not changed at all. (Matterhacker natural 5 lb spool prints best at 200.) Maybe the 2+ has better temperature control to compensate the larger available nozzles?

    I had zero infill and no supports at all, and other than a few places that were horizontal and dropped out some, the print came out great!



  • Create New...