gareee

I'm not going to pick a best answer because I think there are several of them. Having the luxury of multiple nozzles means I've never seen how long a strong part with thick walls takes to print. I guess that spoils new owners some.

There might have been talk about this back when the olssen block came out, but what would you use the .6mm and .8mm nozzles for? I get that the .25 is great for small stuff like jewelry, and I printed something larger with the .8mm yesterday. I'm printing with the .6mm right now, but since there was no real documentation about them (other than how to swap them out) what would be good uses for the two larger nozzels? .4 seems to be the best "go to" nozzle so far. Maybe for a larger print with 100% infill for strength, like a coat hook, or hardware?

Going with the 1/2 the nozzle size formula for the level size worked. I managed to go down to .3 and get a good print. Temps were not changed at all. (Matterhacker natural 5 lb spool prints best at 200.) Maybe the 2+ has better temperature control to compensate the larger available nozzles? I had zero infill and no supports at all, and other than a few places that were horizontal and dropped out some, the print came out great!

I'm trying out the .8 nozzle on a larger print, and the filament is just gumming up on the nozzle. I relevelled the bed and then added glue and get the exact same issue. The same filament at the same speed and temp prints perfectly with the .4 and .25 nozzles. Ideas? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwBiraHLNgE

Thanks for the info! Good to see that a lot of what I'm looking for is already there in some fashion. (I'm on the Microsoft Surface 4 pro, a windows 10 based system.. not a mac though.) BTW, how do you get the .json files to be recognised by the app? (I'm using the public released version from last summer.) I also see there are several different Ultimaker 2+ extended printer profiles..It looks like they correspond to the different nozzle sizes. Once I know how to get the beta to accept the json files, I'll select the one for my current nozzle selection.

Sign me up for the beta test for a + printer! It was suggested that I try the beta for the new slice engine, so I just installed it today. A few initial observations by a fairly new user: Probably great mouse support, but poor touchscreen support. (On the Surface Pro 4, pinch zoom in or out does not work, but two fingered forward and back on the touchpad does. That does work on the standard release.) It also looks like there are a lot of manipulation options on the mouse that are not available for touchpads or touchscreens.. how about a little love there?? No way to import 2+ printer profiles at all. You could at least release the profiles for your new customers. I like the tab approach, but there is to much screen space given to the headers.. maybe add an option to adjust those based on font size, or add a smaller/larger option? Maybe add left/right layout positioning for legacy users used to the older screen layout? Add hotkey support.. that could be a stopgap for touchscreen laptop owners. (Zoom in/out with < and >, pan left/right/up/down (Arrow keys?) Delete key no longer works for deleting selected object, multiply option no longer supports multiply by x number of iterations. Duplicated objects no longer adopt the parent object translations. (rotation) Display rulers in the 3d view. Both metric and standard. Also add standard conversion automatically to the right of the metric size on the scale option panel. (I'm having to keep a calculator app open all the time when using cura when creating for real world parts.) Part of why we paid the extra for an Ultimaker printer was to support Cura development, and its good to see progress on the beta!

Good observation. I'm not really seeing a significantly better print quality moving from .4 to .25.. maybe its just because .4 is just printing so well? I was hoping to see more fine texture detail in a zbrush sculpt, but it could be because the print size was just 2x3".. I might need to do a larger sized print for the details to become apparent. The support tech who assembled my ultimaker suggested faster print speeds on the clear green.. I'll try that once I get done tinkering with the finer nozzle tip.

I sadly don't have a caliper yet. 8( Yellowshark, I'm going solely by the quick temperature print printout. It looks best at the top, where the heat setting was the highest. I'd LOVE if there was some formula or workthrough method somewhere for someone new to be able to figure this out. Something else nice, might be a listing of what objects might be printed best at the different nozzle sizes. Obviously you want a balance between print speed and quality, but for someone again new, its just a crapshoot with no indicators at all of what the different nozzles are best used for. Trail and error isn't the most efficient method of learning, especially when even a small print with the .25 nozzle takes hours.

Actually, someone from ultimaker chirped up in the ultimaker owner fb group. The settings correspond to the nozzle sizes that come with the new printers. From first to last, they go from smallest to largest diameter. The printer must have some way to read the nozzle size and then adjust the temperature based on the current material settings. A nice little feature addition that wasn't mentioned anywhere that I've seen. Here's his helpful post: Jaime van Kessel wrote, "Uh, I work at ultimaker. Might have saved yourself the trouble. It basically starts at the smallest olson block nozzle & counts it's way up to the biggest."

Awesome.. we are using it daily so far, an I have some larger things we want to print once I'm comfortable with settings different filament n such, so it'll be getting a workout to earn the $$$ we spent on it.

Good tip, and thanks! As a new owner, I'd rather keep our printer running top notch as long as possible.

These are the quality prints I'm used to getting.. very clean with almost no cleanup at all. I know my printer can print better because it has been since I unboxed it a few weeks ago. Those green prints were also on slow mode at .09 mm layers.. those sould look just as clean as the firehouses and that head print in these other images. The quick temperature test print sows the best quality is actually at the highest tep for this filament.. 220. Lower temps show worst quality printing.

I'm having some print issues with a new filament I'm using... wyz filament. The printer seems to print everything fine, but this just has all kinds of abnormalities sticking out. I tried to increase retraction, but that didn't help at all. Any help for someone too new to suss this out yet?

Following a ultimaker 2 owner's directions, I was going to manually edit the materials file to add additional materials I have.. his only lists ONE temperature setting, but mine lists multiples! Ultimaker2 [material] name=PLA temperature=200 bed_temperature=55 fan_speed=100 flow=100 diameter=2.85 Ultimaker 2+ [material] name=PLA temperature=210 temperature_210 temperature_195 temperature_230 temperature_240 temperature_240 bed_temperature=60 fan_speed=100 flow=100 diameter=2.85 Can anyone explain what the additional temperature listings are for, and what I should be shooting for in adding new entries for specific filament brands?

Its funny.. I'd think this would have been one of the first improvements on the + models.

I see a fan speed adjustment under Tune, but I don't see a left/right fan option. The reason I ask, is the right side print issue on things like the ultimaker robot's right ear. Its apparently caused by the extra space for the second extruder option, and the fan on the right being further away. A simple solution to me seems to be to across the board increase that right fan speed by a certain percent so it cools that same amount as the left fan. If we have individual fan speed settings, that might be an easy option. Or is that locked out in firmware or hardware design?

I've probably got 100+ hours on my ultimaker 2+ extended as well right now, with zero issues other than being unfamiliar with how they work, and the learning experience.

Witcher 3 medallions, 0 infill [/media-thumb]

I thought acetone didn't work on pla?

Did Ultimaker ever add this upgrade to the printer themselves? Seems like they would/should have by now. (New ultimaker 2+ owner here.)

5th day in with our Ultimaker 2+Extended I modeled the Ghostbusters Firehouse last night, and did this small 1 1/2 x 3 1/4 x 3 1/4 test print of it. Shown with a standard sized hotwheels for scale.

Thanks!