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robson

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2 (Ext
    +)

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  1. I hate to start a new thread and the old one´'s about this subject is close to 10y old so I´m going to ask here. And again I am tagging you @gr5 .. Sorry! So I´m calibrating my extruder, but I cannot get it to extrude when I write Gcode and put it on the sd card.. code : G91 G1 E100 F300 Wrote it in notepad ++ with G-code marlin language and moved the file to the sd card. All it did was homed axis and then said finished. same thing when opening the gcode with cura and export to sd card. What am I doing wrong? Machine settings in cura is "g-code flavor" ultimaker 2+
  2. Thanks guys! I figured it out when I assembled my um. Both 5mm spacers goes to the front of the 8mm Y-axis for anyone wondering. The new Z stage bearings was a great "upgrade". I bought a new z nut aswell and made a anti-backlash nut with a spring as someone posted on a other forum. The bed vibrations are gone now! I still have some problems going on that I have not figured out yet. My bowden tube is leaning to the right and I'm experience some under extruding still. Even with all new print head parts. Perhaps it's due to the bowden tilting to the side.. I have ordered a new tube so hopefully that will fix it.
  3. @nallath @gr5 Assembly guide um2 v1.1 step 20 when assemblying y-axis with pulleys. It says put on a 10mm spacer to the front side, but shouldn't it be a 5mm? Step 26 says slide the last 5mm spacer on the axle.. but nowhere is the first 5mm spacer mentioned?
  4. Nvm I see how it´s build now when I removed the part.
  5. @gr5 Hi mate! Do you know if this is the bearing they use inside the LMK12LUU? https://uk.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221000091678/?HissuCode=LM12LUU&PNSearch=LM12LUU&KWSearch=lm12luu&searchFlow=results2type The LMK12LUU from misumi cost me about 220€ and with these would be around 50€ for 2 bearings. I could cnc the housing or reuse the old one. Cheers!
  6. I see the benefits with not using the "change filament" option. You always get a clean nozzle when you change the filament. I'll give it a try next time I change the material.. Well I'm from Finland so I doubt you have shipped me anything in the past 😅 Perhaps my bed will be more stable after the linear bearing swap. Time will tell. Thanks for your opinions!
  7. Hi gr5! I´ll sure be getting a Um2+ feeder if I ever in the market buying another one. Yes I have the QR version. I don´t really understand what you mean with the pain to open and close? The quick release system perhaps? 3dsolex was nice to send me a ruby nozzle as a gift a few years back, I havn´'t tried it yet but sure will when my printer is back up and running. I´ll be doing some research if it´s worth stabilizing the bed somehow. What do you personally think about it? cheers!
  8. Thanks for the tip, but since I have a new feeder/extruder, hosuing for printhead,40w heater and sensor, + 3d solex block I basically have all what they are offering.. except for the new 6mm linear bearing and rods. I checked my rods and they are straight, linear bearing are sliding well on the rods aswell so I don´t need the printhead upgrade kit. Cheers
  9. Hi Nallath! I have a 3dsolex block for the nozzle. Kinda like an olsson block. Same principle. Bad linear bearings on Z axis makes it tougher to move up and down. it can get somewhat stuck at different places when moving bed up and down ny hand. Hence missing layer. I would need a video to show the vibration. Sorry to say I don´t have one. Here´s a vide on someone else (different brand printer) bud the issue is similar to this. not as much as in the vid but still.. I´m not the only one with this problem. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2007717
  10. So my 6 year old ultimaker 2 has always been printing semi bad. Today I desided to pull it apart and rebuild it with some spare parts I ordered years ago. I´m installing new belts, pulleys, bondtech QR extruder, renewing parts in printhead, and I´m ordering new linear bearings for Z axis rods. along with z nut[s].. Building a anti backlash nut as someone did over at endless-sphere using 2 nuts with a spring. One thing that I´ve had problem with since day one is that the print bed is vibrating to the point it´s hard to print support (or just print above 40mm/s ) if I don´t go superslow. I´ve seen some people re-inforcing the bed with steel or alu U-profiles. My question for this topic is basically tips for upgrades or parts since I`m already have it apart and don´t wich to do it again anytime soon. Regular problems with my printer : - Underextruding (Bondtech should fix this) - Missing layers (New linear bearings and z nut should fix this) - Vibrating print bed (Has nothing to do with how tight or loose the 3 springs are) Stabilizing it somehow would be the solution here. New linear bearings and anti backlash nut will probably help a bit, but I rather fix this then rolling the dice Any tips are welcome. Rob
  11. Lol something calledd Euro-Cladding and is banned in EU 😛 I´ve had this happen to me on my ultimaker 2... Heat gun did the job very well. However I had to replace the temp sensor sinse it got damaged in the progress of removing pla blob..
  12. Thank you all for your help! Should have turned to the forum at the very beginning! I decided to go with Fbrc-8.. Great customer support from Erin!
  13. Thank for the tip! I will creat a thread once I get my spare parts and are up running ( if those part didn´t help) Also my pulleys is VERY excentric. meaning belt will only be tight in one possition, turn it 180 degrees and belt is slack. Wich should have impact on moving print head in XYZ. Never heard a tooth skip on the belt tho.. Also it´s not just one pulleys but 80% if them. One of the short belts are affected by it..
  14. I wish not to bad mouth any vendor publicly but PM me if you want to know who I dealt with
  15. I´ve bought a lot of stuff from US lately and shipping was usually 36€ with ups or dhl. wich is actually not bad at all. Do you happen to have the following parts or can get them for me? 1. Metal fan shroud horizontal version for UM 2/2+ 2. Upper plastic house for the print head 3. Complete pulley kit 4. The support axis tool for removing rod´s. It´s probably 3d printed but not sure..
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