mechaneil
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Posts posted by mechaneil
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That one should work...search for Amadee's firmware to configure a 12864 LCD Smart Display Controller.
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You should get this one instead.
I have it on both of my UMOs, and they work perfectly.
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UPDATED LISTING 11.24.2017
Converting my UMO to a 1.75 filament Hyper Cube printer, as well as changing the board and controller. Selling the following.
1. UMO BOARD - Genuine PCB board, modded with a 4.7k ohm resistor, to allow for the E3D cartridged style thermistor to work. I have been using it with the E3D V6 without problems. - $75 shipped
2. UMO ULTICONTROLLER - works great, slight light bleed on the lcd and card slot works but sd card should be pushed a few times to stay in - $25 shipped
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Thank you for your reply. I will connect it to pronterface and take a snap shot and post it here. I agree with what you said about making firmware changes for the EStesp, thermistor type and graphic display. Hope to gets some tips once when I post the firmware settings.
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Hello everyone,
Seeking help to configure the firmware for the UMO I'm in the process of converting to use 1.75mm filament. I've upgraded to the following parts.
1. MK8 METAL EXTRUDER - https://www.banggood.com/3D-Printer-MK8-1_75mm-Remote-Extruder-Metal-Frame-Kit-For-Makerbot-Reprap-p-1070154.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
2. E3D V6 GENUINE NOZZLE - https://www.filastruder.com/collections/e3d-spare-parts-and-accessories/products/e3d-spare-nozzle-v6?variant=755000273
3. E3D V6 GENUINE HEATER BLOCK - https://www.filastruder.com/products/v6-volcano-cartridge-style-upgrade
4. E3D V6 GENUINE CATRIDGE TYPE THERMISTOR - https://www.filastruder.com/products/v6-volcano-cartridge-style-upgrade?variant=20942512644
5. E3D V6 CLONE - HEAT BREAK AND HEATSINK
6. FULL GRAPHIC DISPLAY CONTROLLER - https://folgertech.com/collections/lcd-displays/products/lcd-display-controller-12864-graphical-reprap-ramps-3d-printer-mendel-1
I was able to get it working with Amedee's builder
7. CAPRICORN PTFE BOWDEN TUBE - https://www.filastruder.com/search?type=product&q=CAPRICORN
Here are some images of the changes that has been done.
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Huuu... If you have a chance, change them to e.g. SilentStepSticks aka SSS aka TMC2100 or TMC2130.
There are a great tutorials for the mod available here (did it on my UMO and i´t damn silent now)
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11571-step-by-step-installation-of-silentstepstick-drivers-on-umo
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17498-new-sss-driver-tmc2130
But maybe this tuts can assist in placing your drivers too...
Thanks for this great guide on the SSS driver. Might upgrade to it down the line, but for now just want to install the DRV8825 drivers. Really need a guide on how to install on the UMO board.
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Following this. What are the hardware that you kept from the stock UMO+ for this build?
What would it entail and the disadvantages of doing this on the UMO but with a bigger build volume, say 300x300x400?
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Hello. I'm in the process of replacing the original stepper drivers on my UMO. I got the DRV8825 from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3YHJ9J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and would like to get some pointers and steps on how to install them. Here's some of my questions.
1. What is the orientation on the board of the stepper driver for the X, Y, Z and Extruder motors?
2. Are there any hardware adjustments (ie, pins, wire plugs orientations) that I need to follow?
3. What are the changes needed on the firmware?
4. What are the stepper voltage values that I need to set each drivers. In what direction does the "pots" rotate to increase/decrease the values?
A clear cut step by step guide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.
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Managed to fix it! Turned out it was the steppers overheating! adjusted the pots, and eventually got it going! However, the head is only moving half as much as it supposed to, it appears that all axis is coming out half scale!
Having thought about it for a bit longer, i realised it wasn't just that they were overheating! So i had two different types of drivers for the motors, one was the A4988 and the others were the upgraded DRV8825. Both have different micro stepping, 1/16 vs 1/32, hence why one axis was moving more than the other! After accidentally blowing up the A4988 i replaced it with a DRV8825, which corrected the issue! I then had to correct the steps per mm for the new micro stepping.
Hello. I'm in the process of replacing the original stepper drivers on my UMO. I got the DRV8825 from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3YHJ9J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and would like to get some pointers and steps on how to install them. Here's some of my questions.
1. What is the orientation on the board of the stepper driver for the X, Y, Z and Extruder motors?
2. Are there any hardware adjustments (ie, pins, wire plugs orientations) that I need to follow?
3. What are the changes needed on the firmware?
4. What are the stepper voltage values that I need to set each drivers. In what direction does the "pots" rotate to increase/decrease the values?
A clear cut step by step guide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.
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Back on sale. Just replaced a faulty extruder stepper driver.
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Hello, I was wondering if you'd be prepared to share the files for your custom E3D V6 mount? It looks great and I have been looking for something like this for ages! I'm in the UK, so sadly can't buy your printer...
Sorry for not replying sooner. Attached is the download link for the stls and printing instructions, please note that they need to be scaled down.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6koOf-H2DPDZ2NBZFpkVzBzUFE
Hope it helps!
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Which one should I use as a drop in replacement for my UMO the stepper driver?
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Hello UM Gurus,
I think my extruder stepper driver and motor died. The extruder motor is not moving whenever I'm doing a print. Here's a bit of explanation of what happened.
1. Last time the extruder motor worked, the UMO would print but about 5-7 minutes into the print, the
filament would stop extruding. The motor will not spin/move anymore.
2. Flipped the UMO over and looked at the extruder stepper driver on the board and found that it's missing
the heatsink. The other stepper driver has the heatsinks on them.
3. Took the extruder stepper driver from my 2nd UMO, and installed it on the the UMO that has a problem,
but carelessly (stupidly) installed in the wrong way. It should have been installed 180 degree in relation
to the other stepper driver on the board. Can someone please confirm this.
4. Tested if the stepper motor is still good by plugging it on the z-axis and moving it forward in 1mm
increments using the Ulticontroller. It still moves forward but not backward/reverse.
Can anyone please confirm if both died, and where can I get a replacement. Would the ones on ebay or amazon work. Thank you for your help.
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Selling my UMO with genuine E3D V6 setup, 0.4mm brass nozzle for $350 shipped within CONUSA.
Upgraded with the following:
1. Ultimaker XY blocks with banana tensioner - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:212248
2. Herringbone Gears for Ultimaker Original Feeder - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1275776
3. Ultimaker Original with Z stage calibration tool -
https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/best-printing-practices-ultimaker
4. Ultimaker rod/axis end cap (fine-tunable) - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:54075
5. Customize filament spool holder - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1546811
6. My Own Custom E3D V6 mount - http://imgur.com/a/GmmHs
7. 6mm Mirror Glass Bed on stock build plate.
Pictures will be posted later.
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Putting together a Folger Tech FT5 with a 300X300X400 build volume.
Prints great once dialed in. Here it is in action --- https://www.facebook.com/brandon.zulli/videos/1549889095028847/
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Thank for the input guys.
I do have a genuine E3D V6. Was initially planning on putting it on the UMO but
decided to use it for an FT5 I'm putting together.
Did some research, and plan to use a hybrid E3D hotend similar to what Tech2c
used on on his hypercube build. He used the genuine E3D heaterblock to replace
the one on the geekcreit clone, and seems to get good print results.
My plan is to use a spare genuine E3D block, nozzle, with the clone (Aluminum heatsink/fan/clip and heatbreak/throat)
I will be using the stock UMO heater cartridge and thermocouple sensor. Verified that it fits the E3D heater block.
This venture is out of curiosity to see if such setup works. Just hope that this curiosity doesn't kill this cat.
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Hello again,
Broke my thermocouple sensor on my stock UMO. Looking for alternative replacement
aside from the official one.
Found this on Aliexpress.
Would this be a good replacement.
And while I'm on it, will be upgrading the hotend to this.
Anything that I should watch out for. Advice from the experts and experienced highly appereciated.
Thanks again everyone.
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About to install this mod, as well as the twisterblocks for the axis. Any good tips on how to keep the axis rods aligned and square during the installation? Thanks again for the great design.
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Also, the E3D V6 mount will use the stock linear bearings? Thinking of changing to an Igus Drylin bearings. What are your thoughts, and wil they fit with your mount design?
Yes it is designed for the stock bearings.
I was also initially thinking to use Igus bearings, but there are none with that particular size. I would have to use 2 smaller ones, but then it would be slightly longer and you would loose print surface...
This one shows using 1 Igus RJZM_01_06 bearing but with a 3d printed bushing to compensate for the size, this solution would probably work for your mount as well.
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Also, the E3D V6 mount will use the stock linear bearings? Thinking of changing to an Igus Drylin bearings. What are your thoughts, and wil they fit with your mount design?
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I used the E3D (24v) heater cartridge and the E3D thermocouple. The thermocouple is compatible with the UMO amplifier. The downside is the UMO is 19V, so it takes a bit more time to warm up (But I can still print at 270°C without problem). I plan to feed the UMO with 24V later anyway.
If you want to keep the UMO heater cartridge, you need to keep the Ultimaker heater block as well.
Other than that, you just need to connect the hot-end cooling fan on 19V on the board.
No firmware change needed, unless you want to print hotter than 265°C, in that case you can bake a shiny new firmware here (my usual shameless plug
)Fast and concise replies as usual. Really appreciate your help Amadee!
Not to concerned about heating on just a 19v, will be printing mostly PLA and ABS.
So to clarify, will be using the E3D heater cartridge and thermocoupler and these are compatible and just plug into the electronics board without any mods, adapters or firmware change?
Will be doing the upgrade soon, hoping it's not to difficult, and will be posting
updates. Thanks again.
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I have no experience with 1.75...
The 1.75 E3D hot end should be better than the 3.0mm as they have a pfte liner in the head which should eliminate clogging with PLA. If you go for 1.75 you need to change the Bowden and for good results you should change the extruder as well.
See this article from @neotko for the details: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20556-ultimaker-original-175mm-filament-conversion
I stayed with 3mm because I have quite a lot of 3mm filament and my printing volume does not justify the change...
Thanks for the reply Amadee. I will then stick with the 3mm setup.
Are the stock UMO heater catridge and the thermocoupler wires compatible with the E3D heater block and the electronic board, or the wires/cables must be swapped. Also, what kind of firmware upgrade does it involve, if any.
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I have deleted everything and re-uploaded the design, it should be OK now.
Also, this version is a drop-in replacement from the UMO hot end and re-uses the fan which is not the best option if you need to print details
I have slightly adapted @neotko's fan cap for the E3D:
That par is on YouMagine as well:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-version-of-neotko-s-symmetric-dual-fans-for-umo
Hi Amedee, would be doing this upgrade as soon as I receive my E3D V6, ordered both for 1.75 and 3.00mm, as I'm building an FT5 and would like to upgrade to an E3D hotend.
My question is what is the upside of installing the 1.75mm over the 3.00mm V6 for the UMO and what kind of works does it entails. Thanks again for your help.
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Purchase it and will be printing the case. If this works well, I might
do the same for the other UMO.
Thanks again for the help especially for the very visual and thorough explanation.
Received the lcd board controller and have customized the firmware. Currently printing the case and accessories. Please excuse my noobiness, but what exactly are the steps in connecting the controller to the UMO and how do I apply the firmware.
Thanks Amedee!!!
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Heavily upgraded UMO+accessories for sale
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
Posted · Edited by mechaneil
I've converted my UMO to 1.75 filament, discussed here:
I'm stuck dialing in the e-steps. Would you be able to send/share your firmware settings to see
if it would work on my setup.
Thank you very much.