Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by halfie

  1. @MikeLindall sorry I should have mentioned, I use the socketed UM2 board. Look for ultimaker 2.1.5 on AliExpress. It looks like they've been taken down though, so I think your best bet might actually be a 32 bit board like the DuetWifi. It's what I intend to switch over to in the long term, since my UM2 clone is now barely a UM2 any more from all the mods. I can't remember who put up a video on the process, I think it might be neotko, but it seems pretty straightforward, and has nothing but advantages
  2. Currently using one of the UM2 Clone PCB's on my system, and replaced the 4988's with 2100's. It runs flawlessly. I had to change the mode to Spreadcycle, which is about 10% louder than the Stealthchop mode, but the noise difference is still incredible compared to the 4988.
  3. Hi @jonnybischof, or anyone, I'm having trouble deciphering the pinouts and how they all relate to values in pins.h? For example, LED J15, is defined as pin 8 in pins.h. On the schematics linked to, the BC817 leading to the signal has PH5 at the end of it, which when I look at the big Mega2560, looks like it's pin 17? How to I correlate the different values? Specifically, I'm looking for details on the signal pin for J9, and J24-J26 (I'm hoping to add auto levelling on J9, and a third extruder to my UM2 for J24 and J26, per the Ultimaker2 Diamond on the reprap wiki, fo
  4. I'm noticing this too, particularly through Pronterface. I'll set the temp to 185, and it'll either stay there until it hits 185 and then immediately turn off the heater, or stay on for a few seconds and turn off. Looking at the printer, it seems as if it's going into the preheat menu for a split second and then leaving it.
  5. There's a couple of potential culprits: Are you installing them in the correct direction? They need to be installed upside down compared to regular 4988 drivers. Are the pins shorting out on anything, are there any accidental bridges between pins? Has the voltage been set correctly? I blew up my TMC2100's because I tried to bridge two spots on the board to put it into a higher torque mode, and left the soldering iron on for too long. Could that have happened?
  6. Tried flicking my 2100's over to spreadcycle on the weekend, and I think I burned out one of the chips trying to bridge that tiny tiny little gap. No matter, the A4988 Black Edition I got are fantastic, and I have just thrown it into a back room to avoid the noise. I also noticed that 90% of the noise is from the extruder motor, so I'm going to chuck the astrosyn on just that, and take them off the x and y axis, I think.
  7. @mutley3d are you running in spreadcycle or stealthchop?
  8. This sounds dumb but could there be slop introduced into the driver over time with heat generation or something?
  9. This works pretty ok, but I noticed on playing with manual bed leveling that I was getting odd movement: if I jogged the wheel, sometimes it would move 0.3 or 0.5mm before the stepper kicked in and did it's move, and then if I wanted to back up, I had to jog it waaaaay back and then go back in slowly, it was odd. I'm wondering if it's to do with the steps per mm... Using the 4988 my z steps is 400, but using the 2100s it was still 400. The umo thread mentioned having to double your steps per mm from 200 to 400... I also wonder what would happen if I left the microsteps
  10. That's what I figured. I'm planning to splice in a Raspberry pi 3 soonish, and run it from the phone as well, it seems like a great way to keep an eye on things while I'm at work.
  11. I'm actually wondering something... Would it be possible to use a different controller (ie the duet3d) and just use the ulticontroller plugged in via ext1 and 2 like they are for the ultiboard2?
  12. @mutley3d I have them set to 0.9 each, with heatsinks, and with active cooling blowing across them from a 5050 blower, I'm definitely thinking it's stealthchop. With regards to the drivers, the ones that you get from that AliExpress shop you don't actually need to wire bridge, just connect 2 solder pads on the driver, which makes it so much easier Now if I can get any form of Auto bed leveling working I'll be happy
  13. I'm using the aliexpress 2.1.5 board at the moment, and it's working just fine. What I did was change the MS1, MS2 and MS3 microswitches to OFF/OFF/OFF, to make the board full step, and then inserted the 2100 drivers. No modifications to drivers, like resistors or whatnot, just plug and play. The printer was completely silent. I got some TMC2100's sent along with the board, but I couldn't get them to satisfactorily print, it was constantly skipping steps. Could be voltage, or could be something else to do with the switch positioning? I don't know. Also, the UM2 LCD isn
  14. I always dropped the acceleration and the jerk way down on my system, to get way cleaner prints. I'm in agreement about Linear Advance, so far I'm actually finding I got sharper corners with the original tinkergnome firmware. My k factor is set to 314 at the moment as well, which seems crazy high, but I'm also running at 80-90mm/s and still getting some very nice prints (other than the sharp corners), when I would have run the same calibration cube at 40mm/s previously. I'm using 1.75mm filament into an e3d, using a length of the Capricorn bowden tubing, with clips on a
  15. Just for anyone that comes across this in the future: I was having serious issues with prints starting to skip steps, and it turns out that the default acceleration is insanely high on Marlin default. It is set to 3000 around line 531: #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 3000, 3000, 100, 10000 } Modify it to #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION { 500, 500, 100, 10000 } or even lower, and you should notice a huge improvement. Also while you're in there, you can probably lower these as well: #define DEFAULT_XJERK
  16. the bugfix contains the necessary code for the Ulticontroller, which is not in the official release 1.1.8. Apparently they're releasing 1.1.9 soon, which will have this in it, I assume. The actual line to uncomment is: #define ULTI_CONTROLLER Attached is the only file I've needed to modify to get it running. You'll need to rename it from Configuration.log to Configuration.h though before copying it to the Marlin directory. This is specifically set up for my own DIY Ultimaker 2+, which has the following changes: E3D head with 0.25mm
  17. Just a quick update: Using the 1.1.x bugfix of Marlin, I managed to get the LCD screen up and running flawlessly, so all is well! It's nowhere near as pretty or intuitive as tinkergnomes' firmware, but it'll do for now!
  18. Hi tinker, I modified a version of the 1.1.8 release, and ran through all of the different LCD's that were commented out in configuration.h, and then spent the better part of the day attempting to port over the UltiLCD2 files from the main Ultimaker 2 15.04.6, and your 17.10.1, with no success. The good thing is that it's actually reading the SD card, and all the sensors seem to be working fine, although i haven't stuck it back in the machine and tested the motion yet. As ChrisRiddell pointed out, it looks like the latest version added Ulticontroller 2.1 AND improved t
  19. Hi all, the current release of Marlin has a whole bunch of fancy new toys in it, which I'd like to try out, the most interesting being: Unified Bed Levelling, which should be doable via a precisionpiezo kit, hooked up to J26 Linear Advance, which helps by constantly adjusting the pressure to the melted filament, allowing for faster and more accurate prints simultaneously. The biggest roadblock to getting this done is that I can't for the life of me get the Ultimaker 2 LCD screen to turn on or display anything. I have absolutely no idea how to get it going?
  20. Hi gr5, I picked up an ultiboard2 clone from aliexpress, named "v2.1.5" specifically to try out the TMC2100's. The board actually comes with individual micro jumper switches, much like the jumpers on the Ultimaker Original 1.5.7 board, but for each stepper driver! This means that you can install the trinamic drivers with M1 and M2 in off and M3 in on (if I'm reading the first post right). The question is: will this maximum speed of 62mm/s still apply if the jumpers are switched to Full Step mode (m1/m2 off, m3 on)? Or is this speed limit scenario specifically because of the 16 micr
  21. I'm also super super curious about your process for getting this running. I'm hoping to get the latest marlin (1.1.8) up and running on my UM2, to try and get their sweet sweet autoleveling working using a precision piezo kit, and one of the aliexpress 2.1.5 boards with the removable stepper drivers so I can go to TMC2100 Silent Stepsticks (seems to be working great in testing so far, but I haven't disassembled the old board yet). Any chance you'll be making a fork we can look at?
  22. Hi guys, been reading this for a while now, and I'm curious: what's the minimum amount of steel that you'd need to have under glass for an inductive sensor to work? Why not just get a sheet of 0.5mm (or thinner) sheet steel from a local hardware store, and stick it under the glass? My printer is still in pieces at the moment (A home grown ultimaker), and this seems like a solution that could work?
  • Create New...