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navigator

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Everything posted by navigator

  1. Just store the settings (Bottom left area) when entered - Towards the bottom of this page on Calibration. https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/step-6-calibration.html
  2. Similar to mine after I held the 2nd head out off the way until it was needed to measure distances. Have entered my calibration readings in a previous post which should be a good start
  3. Have to agree with what foehnsturm has said - there have been a couple of us who have had this problem at the start - once a suitable value has been entered into the Y offset it works superbly For help, my offsets are: X 18.20 Y -24.95 - Maybe good starter input positions?
  4. In that case I think I will persevere with Cura for 2 colour prints, and use S3D for single - Thanks for the information.
  5. Absolutely blown away at how good they are coming out especially when I think the bigger heater and new temp sensor on the old head will improve things more. My 2nd cone below.
  6. Here you go ultiarjan, my first attempt after doing a re-cal of the head Printed at 0.15mm using Cura, which also is a learning curve for me as normally use S3D :( Has anyone got any suitable S3D config files available yet?? Would be handy I have ordered the new temp sensor and higher wattage heater as per the upgrade kit which will help when the 2nd head is required, but I think it works amazing - thank you and the other members of the team for your efforts <3 [url=] Andy
  7. Well, another Mark2 has joined the ranks, and I’m a very happy bunny I decided to use my old UM2 stepper motor/head as it was laying around after updating to the 2+ and it always worked well in the past. I had to mirror image and reprint IRobertl’s UM2 Feeder V2 and MendellS’s UM2 Filament straightener but this meant that I didn’t need to change the wires on the stepper motor to turn the right way – I did have to lengthen the stepper wires and change the esteps, but that was easily achieved in the firmware. Parts for the head etc. were printed using ColorFabb XT, and seem to be holding up well. The conversion was made super easy by using Syntax Terror’s expansion board (many thanks for supplying that gem). Also a big thanks to the guys who made this possible, and also their kind assistance to help sort out a few teething problems on the way. [/img] [/img] Andy
  8. Well I have managed to stop the head hitting the UM2 casing I held the 2nd head away until it was needed and managed to get some rough measurements which I entered, and on running the gcode file again the head remained well clear of the casing. Print is looking good, with a small adjustment now required. Many thanks to ultiarjan and foehnsturm for your assistance. Andy
  9. HELP!!! I have built The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade and have run into a problem trying to run the gcode calibration set up. When the heads go to the central prime position it causes my heads to crash against the front of the UM which then makes the print fail, and pick up/replace the second head fail as well. I took the second head off when it did its prime (just the main head used) and measured the distance from the head to the front of the UM cabinet as 2.7mm, whereas the size of the 2nd head when attached is 3.0mm (ish). Is there anyway I can alter the gcode to stop this happening - and of course change any Cura settings to stop this happening for later prints?? Any assistance much appreciated. Andy
  10. Many thanks foehnsturm and ultiarjan for your assistance - will give that a try when its all set up. Andy
  11. I have made a start on doing this upgrade on my UM2ex+ (fitted with upgraded extruder kit) with head parts and stepper motor mount printed and waiting for the interface board which 'SyntaxTerror' is kindly sending me. Reading through the Mark 2 BOM I see that the firmware will need to be altered for my set up - Using the upgraded extruder kit as the main feeder, with the original UM2 extruder/stepper motor as the new addition - Olson kit fitted on old extruder. I would be most grateful if someone could point me in the right direction (commands etc to use) so that this combination would be usable. Many thanks for your assistance. Andy
  12. Can you post the stl of this, so we can try and see what results we get?? If an improvement could then upload our profiles
  13. I use Ballistol which is available on the web and a first class oil - only needs a finger dipped in the end of the bottle and spread over the bars etc to provide first class lubrication. Used on guns etc., doesn't wax up and first class - Have a look at the specs
  14. I have just upgraded my UM2 extended to a '+' using the upgrade kit and have been using X=230 and Y=225 since I had the machine with no problems at all - why did it go across to the far right?? If you look in Cura, the values show as X=223 Y=223 - might be worth trying those??
  15. Oh nice! The Ulti-bot one or the 'Original'? Well after printing both which work as designed, it HAS to be the Ulti-bot one Looks more fun, and I like the way it hangs off the side wall for easy access!!
  16. Well upgrade all fitted and running like a champ - First test prints have come out fine, and its super quiet. Now off to print the 'Wedge'
  17. Miracles do happen!! Went on to Dream 3D's site and they had 3 available - Now 2! On my way shortly to pick it up
  18. Any updates on when this will be generally available in the UK?? Dream and 3DGBIRE are still saying pre-order!!!! Disappointing to say the least after all this time :(
  19. Have you touched the feeder tension at all? If you can supply the gcode for a model that is giving you problems, I can also try printing it to see if I can recreate the issue. What @neotko said about the extruder motor power command in the gcode from S3D is also viable, but I don't have a license for S3D so I can't confirm. Here is the code from S3D showing the command for the extruder current. M907 E1400 ; increase extruder current G28 ; home all axes G1 X20 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to front G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length G1 Z10 ; lower G1 E19 F200 ; purge nozzle quickly G1 E26 F60 ; purge nozzle slowly G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again G1 E-5.5 F400 ; retract G1 X190 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filament G1 X210 F9000 ; wipe G1 Y20 F9000 ; wipe G1 E0 ; feed filament back
  20. I recently got the UM2ex, and this doesn't happen on mine - Am I missing a setting to tweak, or have the boards been changed since the new units came out??? Would be very handy to be able to turn off when the unit is not printing!
  21. Have a look at Simplify3D if you want to create your own supports - this is one area where it does work very well. It does have built in routines for Ultimakers, and with a bit of tweaking I am getting very good results, infact even better than Cura. The downside is that it costs, and no free trial is offered, but I am using it on 2 printers with no problems. There is an area which shows you its features and it also has its own forum.
  22. No problems, I just set up a new account as had only just started here - Did check spam box as well, but no sign of them. Good luck with the spam killing!!!!
  23. As long as they don't use their system which was used to verify accounts from the old forum - still waiting after 2 attempts!!!!
  24. Had some great news yesterday, my shiny new UM2 extended had arrived and was available for collection A few hours later, it had been given most of the mods I had collected, including Olsson block and I2K insulator, and is now printing away like a champ. Did have to drill a hole in the end of the original print head to push the thermistor out, but overall very easy to do, and very pleased with how it is performing - Will just have to keep tweaking S3D now to get the best out of her 8)
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