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dintid

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  1. ou need to do several things: comment out M83 in config. Insert M82 in your start.gcode. You need to use Volumetric printing. Both in RepRapFirmware and use Marlin (volumetric) Gcode Flavor. Insert M200 P1.71 in config.g and startupg.code Setup all your filaments to be 1.1284mm (instead of 1,75mm) now you run volumetric. Enable firmware retract in config.g M207 S1.5 F3000 - this only works if you use Volumetric Gcode in Cura, or Cura doesn't send the right gcodes. Sources *Where I learned about dimensions to enter: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?t=7924 *A blog-post I wrote about all of this (working on a new one) - https://betrue3d.dk/using-duet-with-cura-and-diamond-hotend-and-firmware-retract/ Problems so far (mains): Seems Cura only really manages to print 2 colors.. it _does_ use more colors, but if you use more than 2 colors on 1 layer, it only goes to the Prime tower for 2 of the colors... meaning its causing a lot of.. muddle things in the print.. You need to set all 5 temperature settings pr filament the same (ie: 200c) or the printing process stops a lot.. say, if first layer was set to 205 instead of 200, it does wait for it to reach 205 whenever it changes to a new color.. even if it is in layer 20. Waiting for temperature changes etc takes place at last position of the printed part, and not some logicial place like the wipe tower. Some very, very slow moves takes place the first few layers from the printed parts to the wipe tower... I have not been able to figure out, where this very slow move speed comes from.. also not entirely sure why it makes these moves - it's not just slow movespeed for first layer
  2. dintid

    Cura 2.6 | Beta

    Thanks!! I've actually been looking at other slizers as the placement of objects and slow auto-slizing and startup was a huge bother. Glad you finally put back in a proper object placemnet feature. It's been defunct since v2.* where items goes way out of the printplate. I havn't tested it yet though Adding option to disable auto-slizing and supporting multi-threadding is very nice (why wait so long for this?) Requests You really need to focus some on Material settings! Add a "Material" icon next to the "Print Setup" and "Print Monitor" icons. We really must have (yes, must) more options to define filaments like extrusion rate. We have done extensive testing and PETG seems to always need to be printed at lower than 100% extrusionrate. Pretty much always between 95-97% Line width should also be here, as the default 0.35 works very well for PLA but totally ruin PETG and many ABS+ prints As it is now we have to remember a wealth of information for each of our filaments and it's just impossible to do so. S3D and Sliz3r has all kinds of nice settings for filaments, which are really a must have.
  3. dintid

    Error Tried printing out of printing area

    That wasn't my issue, but A version of the problem. I think it's safe to say the error is misreading from SD-cards. Mine was fixed by formatting my SD card using https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_4/ which is free for use. I just did a Quick format and put in auto correction of size.
  4. dintid

    Ramps 1.4

    Hello Mahmoud, Problem is not the simplicity of your question. It's the complexity of it, and also because it seems you have some misconceptions that needs to be addressed. But fear not Controller 1 I'll strongly recommend using an Arduino + Ramps combination over the UM build. Partly because of the price, but mostly because you do not get locked down when going the Arduino way, and you can use the board for other projects later on. The UM2 controller board is based on arduino + something and is just their own package of the same with some added features. I'll bet it's easier to start out with Arduino + Ramps as it has much more info on it.. that said, you CAN find preconfigured Firmware for UM2 board https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin - if you go this route, you learn "nothing" though. But that can be ok if it is what you want. Controller 2 You might even look at Rambo boards or similar, which are combined and extended arduino+"ramps", but lets say you go for the "Arduino Mega 2560 r3 + Ramps 1.4 road" Firmware Marlin Then you need the Marlin firmware, found on Github: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin you really only (mostly) need to edit just 1 file in there: "Configuration.h" you might want to change some info in the "Configuration_adv.h" and maybe pins file... but you can simply read through all the files. Some are just code, skip those, but others are filled with usefull comments. Mostly I just searched/googled if I needed to add some feature, to figure out where I needed to make some change (if it wasn't in the 2 standard files) Arduino IDE You use the Arduino IDE program to open the Marlin firmware files, which are really just a bunch of files. Each called a "sketch". You use the program to modify the firmware files, meaning you change parameters to match your build. Then you press upload and the Arduino IDE is going to Compile it and upload it to your device. https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software Firmware HEX file That is just a precompiled firmware file, which you can upload using Cura. Cura Cura is not a program you are using to setup/configure your printer in any way at all. Cura is a Slizer program, which means it opens the 3D object file, usually an STL, and slizes it into layers with information on print-speed, temperature etc, and outputs a .gcode file, which your printer uses to figure out how to move to print the object.. Understanding all the parts of a 3D printer: That is the real challenge now :)You could read the instructable I made a while ago Complete newbie step by step, 3D printer with all parts lists and use Google a lot. My instructable has nothing to do with ultimaker, but then again, I've tried to cover all parts of a 3D printer and Ramps in detail, and should prove usefull in those aspects. What clone to build? I'm currently building the extremely cool clone Aluminum Extrusion (2020) UM2 Printer - which you might want to take a look at. - The most info for doing that project can be found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:811271 (not firmware wise though) I recieve notifications on this thread, so/and please ask if there's anything :)I can put the firmware somewhere as I'm just finishing it up
  5. Well, this clone is just awesome - I am building mine. Actually just finishing up and did a lot of the remixes over at http://www.thingiverse.com/dintid/collections/building-ultimaker-2-aluminum-extrusion-3d-printer - I know some people are are either actively working on it or soon to being their own version of it
  6. Read this.? http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7452 I always print at 110c on bed. Not an UM though. Why should it degrade?
  7. Hello all, Looking to buy used or even defective Ultimaker. Maybe even just the lasercut pieces. Would love to get UM2 pieces but I'm interested in all versions except the "go" as I allready have a small printer. I live in Denmark, so some shipping might be required. Cheers Morten Denmark
  8. dintid

    UM2 for Sales Brighton UK

    Do you know if the Powersupply is different in UK models than it would be in EU mainland? We run 220v AC here in Denmark. You run 110 or so?
  9. I'll simply just write the answer for people that just want to get this to Work and are not interested in the why or how it Works Edit: I went ahead and did a clear and concise (tried to;)) instructables to get these to Work and not delve on what they do: http://www.instructables.com/id/Install-and-configure-SilentStepStick-in-RAMPS-TMC/ I'll let this section remain if people prefer this list. On RAMPS 1) Remove the 3rd pin from one of the two sections of pins that comes with the board. -- This pin is to avoid soldering in CFG2. -- Just pull it out with a plyer before soldering it on 2) Solder all the remaining legs on both sides - carefull to place the empty slot at the CFG2 part. -- The trimpot and chip is downwards. Golden part upwards. -- "TOP" is actually written on it, so not hard to figure out. -- Note where the GND pin is, as you need this to adjust it later. 2) Remove all jumpers 3) Install the drivers -- Trimpot must be towards the powerinputs of the Ramps board. -- Means in reverse of the 4988 drivers you might have. 4) If you want to adjust the stepsticks by feel/hear, you do that now. 5) if you want to adjust by by vref you: -- Put a multimeter on 2V and hook it up. -- Put red to Down the hole to touch the Trimpot. -- Put the Black wire to the pin GND pin. Opposite corner. 6) See if you can make it read 0.8 or so -- it is really sensetive, so take your time. If you only have USB connected, you get a wrong reading. You just turn on power as you would normally.
  10. At least at RAMPS 1.4 the layout is the same on all important points so don't worry too much about the jumpers - just remove them! (you can - if you want - remove ALL THREE). Thanks! Ok, so to sum it up: On RAMPS 1) I solder in all legs on both sides. 2) Remove all jumpers 3) Install the drivers What, if any, different settings do I achieve by inserting one or more jumpers? Any combinations that is good to know? I only change my XY which currently runs on 1/16, so no need to change firmware. But I understand I need to either reverse firmware or swap cables. I'll test anyway regardless of what I need to do I have never measured vref, as I have yet to find a clear instruction on how to do so. Ie. USB power only, or? In any case, I just listen to them and dial them as far Down as I can without missing steps.. then dial up some.. then adjust if they sound annoying. I see the UM only remove Jumper 1 and 2. Why is that?
  11. I actually need to use this on Ramps, but the soldering bit is one step closer for me Just need to figure out jumpers now, unless they are the same.
  12. Thanks! So I don't have to unsolder anything. That was my main concern. eidted: that was old review, so removed what I wrote to avoid confusion.
  13. With fear of sounding slowenly I just have to ask or beg for a summary of the first post, as I simply didn't catch what to do, and what not to do - might be because I'm Danish, or because I know next to nothing about Electronics, but the end result is the same: I'm confused. I CAN solder just fine though regardless of not knowing much about Electronics. I found it unclear if I MUST desolder something or not? I also found it unclear how to set the jumpers? I think it was jumper on 2 and 3 and none on 1. Is that correct? Got confused about all the talk of pulled high and low. Hope someone take pity on me, and answers my questions Thanks in advance.
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