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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. ou need to do several things: comment out M83 in config. Insert M82 in your start.gcode. You need to use Volumetric printing. Both in RepRapFirmware and use Marlin (volumetric) Gcode Flavor. Insert M200 P1.71 in config.g and startupg.code Setup all your filaments to be 1.1284mm (instead of 1,75mm) now you run volumetric. Enable firmware retract in config.g M207 S1.5 F3000 - this only works if you use Volumetric Gcode in Cura, or Cura doesn't send the right gcodes. Sources *Where I learned about dimensions to enter: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?t=7924 *A blog-post I wr
  2. Thanks!! I've actually been looking at other slizers as the placement of objects and slow auto-slizing and startup was a huge bother. Glad you finally put back in a proper object placemnet feature. It's been defunct since v2.* where items goes way out of the printplate. I havn't tested it yet though Adding option to disable auto-slizing and supporting multi-threadding is very nice (why wait so long for this?) Requests You really need to focus some on Material settings! Add a "Material" icon next to the "Print Setup" and "Print Monitor" icons. We really must have (yes, must) more
  3. That wasn't my issue, but A version of the problem. I think it's safe to say the error is misreading from SD-cards. Mine was fixed by formatting my SD card using https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_4/ which is free for use. I just did a Quick format and put in auto correction of size.
  4. Hello Mahmoud, Problem is not the simplicity of your question. It's the complexity of it, and also because it seems you have some misconceptions that needs to be addressed. But fear not Controller 1 I'll strongly recommend using an Arduino + Ramps combination over the UM build. Partly because of the price, but mostly because you do not get locked down when going the Arduino way, and you can use the board for other projects later on. The UM2 controller board is based on arduino + something and is just their own package of the same with some added features. I'll bet it's easier to start ou
  5. Well, this clone is just awesome - I am building mine. Actually just finishing up and did a lot of the remixes over at http://www.thingiverse.com/dintid/collections/building-ultimaker-2-aluminum-extrusion-3d-printer - I know some people are are either actively working on it or soon to being their own version of it
  6. Read this.? http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=7452 I always print at 110c on bed. Not an UM though. Why should it degrade?
  7. Hello all, Looking to buy used or even defective Ultimaker. Maybe even just the lasercut pieces. Would love to get UM2 pieces but I'm interested in all versions except the "go" as I allready have a small printer. I live in Denmark, so some shipping might be required. Cheers Morten Denmark
  8. Do you know if the Powersupply is different in UK models than it would be in EU mainland? We run 220v AC here in Denmark. You run 110 or so?
  9. I'll simply just write the answer for people that just want to get this to Work and are not interested in the why or how it Works Edit: I went ahead and did a clear and concise (tried to;)) instructables to get these to Work and not delve on what they do: http://www.instructables.com/id/Install-and-configure-SilentStepStick-in-RAMPS-TMC/ I'll let this section remain if people prefer this list. On RAMPS 1) Remove the 3rd pin from one of the two sections of pins that comes with the board. -- This pin is to avoid soldering in CFG2. -- Just pull it out with a plyer before soldering it on
  10. At least at RAMPS 1.4 the layout is the same on all important points so don't worry too much about the jumpers - just remove them! (you can - if you want - remove ALL THREE). Thanks! Ok, so to sum it up: On RAMPS 1) I solder in all legs on both sides. 2) Remove all jumpers 3) Install the drivers What, if any, different settings do I achieve by inserting one or more jumpers? Any combinations that is good to know? I only change my XY which currently runs on 1/16, so no need to change firmware. But I understand I need to either reverse firmware or swap cables. I'll test anyway regardles
  11. I actually need to use this on Ramps, but the soldering bit is one step closer for me Just need to figure out jumpers now, unless they are the same.
  12. Thanks! So I don't have to unsolder anything. That was my main concern. eidted: that was old review, so removed what I wrote to avoid confusion.
  13. With fear of sounding slowenly I just have to ask or beg for a summary of the first post, as I simply didn't catch what to do, and what not to do - might be because I'm Danish, or because I know next to nothing about Electronics, but the end result is the same: I'm confused. I CAN solder just fine though regardless of not knowing much about Electronics. I found it unclear if I MUST desolder something or not? I also found it unclear how to set the jumpers? I think it was jumper on 2 and 3 and none on 1. Is that correct? Got confused about all the talk of pulled high and low. Hope someone t
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