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  1. I'm currently using 3mm filament mostly because I was under the impression that "3mm" was industry speak for 2.85mm but I now know that is incorrect. The UM2 can handle 3mm fine you just have to tweak a few settings. Some things to note are: 1. DO NOT EVER use the "change filament" option if you have the stock UM2 bowden tube. The inner diameter of the bowden tube leaves next to no wiggle room for this larger filament, this combined with heat-deformed filament almost guarantees the business end of the filament is going to get stuck in the tube which will result in the knurled wheel to have it
  2. This is rather late but I sort of ran into the same problem with 3mm filament. I was having lots of issues and never realized that it was the inside diameter of the stock bowden tube on my UM2. I have some high temperature o-ring lubricant that I put on the inside of the tube which helped, but my biggest problem is changing filament since once the filament hits the heated end it deforms and almost always makes it impossible to retract back through the tube. I've resorted to manually pulling it through (thank god I installed roberts feeder).
  3. So another update: Turns out temperature was the main problem with all this. The PLA that came stock with the UM2 was being printed @225C and this new filament had a significantly lower temp of 200C. Looks like it wasn't the size of the print but rather the temperature I was running it at, the constant high temp would eventually clog the nozzle with burnt bits of plastic and I couldn't see it since I was using black PLA. I've attached a few photos of a piece I'm printing to prove this point. The above picture is the furthest I've gotten with this print and you can see that it starts t
  4. Hey everyone I just thought I would give a little update. The above mentioned print, although having a beautifully printed first layer, failed yet again. This new material I got fails after a few hours, usually after I've left work. I printed something smaller that would take just as long and it failed too. I've narrowed the issue down to either: 1. I'm printing at too high of a temperature (225C) and the nozzle is slowly getting clogged with burnt plastic. I say this because I've noticed that it has a lower melting point and when it first extrudes to clean itself out I see some smoke. 2.
  5. Here is the new print after adjusting the initial layer to 0.3mm Looks a lot better! Although a few of the circles got snagged I just need to drop the total speed a little bit and I should be golden
  6. I will adjust that and post some pictures of my new print Actually the one good thing about this soft filament is I've noticed next to no lifting what so ever, even on a print this big. That actually reminds me, before this filament I was using the filament that came with the printer which stuck nicely just on the glass, I've only just recently been forced to cover the bed with kapton tape to get this new filament to stick
  7. When I did my initial search for 2.85mm I kept getting hits on google for 3mm, I then found a thread (not here) where someone called 2.85mm and 3mm the same thing, that mixed with my inability to find a candian supplier for 2.85mm for the color I needed I ended up just going with 3mm. It is irritating how soft it is but I'll just chalk it up to another lesson learned.
  8. Hey everyone, I purchased an UM2 about 4 months ago and have usually been able to solve any issues by just searching the forums, that is until now. I'm attempting to print something that is rather large, almost the entire bed and wondered if there were any special 'tricks' I should know about. Although the print is only 3mm high is has a lot of surface area, but I start to see issues when it starts the infill on the first layer, like this: The lines rarely touch, most of the issues seem to happen towards the back so I have played with adjusting the bed screw but making it any looser giv
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