JohnFox
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Posts posted by JohnFox
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That's a very common problem with ABS, I eventually abandoned it in favour of PLA, even though ABS was the better material for the project. Since switching, the delaminating dropped from 50% per print to 0%. PLA is SO much easier to print.
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Are you feeding from a spool? Maybe the coils are small and cause too much friction along the Bowden tube. I switched to buying coils of filament with a much larger diameter than spools.
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I have had this in the past, it was due to grease on the Z pillars. Wipe them dry with kleenex and the bearing should roll OK. If they are oily then the bearings will try to slide, not roll.
While cleaning the Z-Screw, I noticed that the bed bearings are in fact sticky. The bed will stick at certain points when I'm moving it up and down and will require significant force to get it moving again.
Could it be that I have defective bearings on the Z axis?
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Just seen this post - it's something quite different to normal printing.
I guess the hardest part is to get viable bacteria through the print head without them being killed off by the heat. Search for the lowest temperature plastic available and print really quickly to minimise the time in the heated nozzle.
A cold print bed would help.
You may find that bacteria in their dormant state are more robust
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I have tried XTD -3D as well, found it difficult to use and didn't give good results. It had problems covering sharp corners.
The real killer for me was that it isn't compatible with water at all - discoloured immediately.
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Bear in mind that you don't need very much oil for the X & Y bearings. The manual says 'a drop', that is a lot of oil. Just a smear is plenty.
Also don't oil the Z pillars, ( unless you have really high spec bearings ). Oil on these makes the bearing balls slide, not roll.
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Has anyone got ideas about the best way to finish Nylon prints? I have been trying out the Taulman 'Alloy 910' which prints reasonably well but I need to remove all the little bits of stringing on some of the surfaces. My standard method of wet and dry paper doesn't seem to work.
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I simply used PVA glue, ( Prit Stick ) and a brim, the brim seems to be important.
Anyone any ideas for 'finishing' Nylon prints, sanding doesn't seem to work well.
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I have just tried the Alloy 910. Not easy but I got workable parts out of it.
I had to drop the temp to 245C to stop it from charring, then printed slow and at 105% flow rate. The spool it comes on is VERY small, only 50mm diameter, so the coil doesn't go in the Bowden tube very well. I uncoiled it, put it in the oven at 50C for 10mins and it 'relaxed' quickly. Not seen any obvious problems with water absorption.
Very strong and the parts have less friction than PLA. However you can't smooth the surfaces with wet and dry, unlike PLA or ABS.
Try taulman bridge - the easiest nylon I think maybe? Actually Taulman might have one even easier - I forget.
They claim that the new Alloy 910 is stronger and easier to print than Bridge. But I haven't heard of anyone who actually tried it, so no idea, how it is different.
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I had a very similar first layer recently when I tried printing with some old ABS, ( 2 years old ). Abandoned the print and switched back to PLA - all fine.
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I've used Araldite, it's a two part epoxy resin. You have to mix it up for each use but you have time to align the parts. The thinner the epoxy layer the better.
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Maybe try outer shell speed = 30, inner shell speed = 40 and see what happens. ( Cura advanced tab )
Printing overhangs is always one of the hardest parts of printing.
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Any chance of inverting the object? That would avoid those particular overhangs, although you would get problems with that horizontal slot.
Otherwise try printing the shells much slower. A lower temperature may help a bit.
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Soap - Good heavens - whatever will they think of next!
I tried glycerine as a lubricant and it seemed to increase the friction of my wiper cloth compared to rapeseed oil. Didn't see any obvious change to a print after lubrication, maybe my |Robert| feeder is doing its stuff.
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Just doing some experiments on the lubrication issue. Using rapeseed oil certainly reduced friction in the bowden tube, whether it will improve prints - time will tell.
I am going to try glycerine as the lubricant. I'm a bit worried that over time, oil will get onto the build plate and reduce the sticking effect of the PVA glue. Glycerine is water soluble, so should wash off easily.
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Nothing obviously wrong there.
Not seen anything like that before. Doesn't look like a Z artefact to me, looks like both the X and Y are printing too small. What does the object look like in Cura layers view?
The heat explanation suits me but... should be smg else... here are the layers (is it good for you?)
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Not seen anything like that before. Doesn't look like a Z artefact to me, looks like both the X and Y are printing too small. What does the object look like in Cura layers view?
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That's far too small for a filament printer, you are seeing micron details in that image. As SandervG says, the smallest nozzle is 0.25mm, so that gives the finest line possible with the Ultimaker.
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A quick sand using wet and dry paper will get them smooth. Start with 180 or 240 grit, then 320, ending with 400.
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Keep the pillars really clean by wiping with a paper tissue from time to time.
It is not the heat for sure because here where I live, it is really hot ( brazil
), so I always use it with a fan blowing air underneath the printer (ahahahha).Update: After removing the Z axis and cleaning it very carefully with a toothbrush and an old T-shirt, I tested the linear bearings without the Z axis and it seems that the problem is the linear bearings.
I can feel a spot where the bearings resist, just a little bit, to move near the height where I have the problem. I rotated the linear bearings, just to see if it would get better, cleaned the rods (again) and carefully tightened the screws one by one while I was moving the bed up and down (again).
Now it feels a little bit smoother, after greasing the Z axis again, I will try a few prints to check if the problem is gone "forever". If it is not gone, I think I will have to buy/ask ultimaker new linear berings or new rods, or both, I don't know ahahaha.
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Not viable with 3D printing. Your best bet would be to make a polymer containing your compound and turn it into beads. Also think of polymer 'bubbles' with the compound inside.
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Make sure the Z axis pillars are completely clean, ( no oil ).
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Yes, it's the number of segments. I use 99 as the number to give a really round cylinder.
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Are you fans on? With PLA they need to be on 100%
Massive prints (More than a kilo)
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
ABS is a real sod to print. Warping and delamination are a nightmare. Couldn't you use a 3D printed shell filled with resin?
On my project, ABS was the perfect material but the problems in printing with it forced me to use PLA instead and I never regretted it. Failure rate dropped from 75% to 0%
What I'm printing is essentially a speaker cabinet, and it is not really possible to split it up - at least that would be a bad idea. The infill was initially set to 100% as that would by far be the best for the acoustics of the speaker, but even at 10% it still takes 6 days vs. 8 days, but the amount of material is reduced to about 0.6kg of ABS. As far as making small prints first, whilst I ideally agree, that is somewhat pointless and impossible here, since what I need for this order is the size it is, and I have nothing particularly smaller I'm in need of printing - though I have experimented some. Enought to know that the failure-rate on these fillament based printers is worryingly high relative to resinbased ones, simply due to things like the fillament not extending properly due to snags/knots on the rolls etc.
I suppose an option on the Ultimaker 3 would be to use both printheads, thus allowing for two rolls of fillament - thought that does also limit the print size slightly, which could be a problem
But go big or go home I guess...