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TheArchitect

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Posts posted by TheArchitect

  1. Lots of trouble with too small layer height and not exactly calibrated machine!

    I suggest:

    Atomic.

    Bed levelling, after paper makes small resistance on  you, "open 3 clicks" on wheel. Many have too small bed gap.

    Pla 220C

    start sklow: 30mms

    Layer 0.15

    Work from there.. oncrease speed slowly to 50

    I don't really understand what you mean by '"open 3 clicks" on wheel'. The problem is 0.15 is a thick layerheight to me. As I use my printer mostly for architecture-models I often have to print very small and thin pieces (like furniture on 1:100 or 1:50) so always printing on a layerheight higher than 0.1 is impossible for me.

  2. If you want a smooth looking surface and your printing PLA, just don't use any glue at all, just make sure you print on a clean glassbed.

    When I don't use anything at all my prints don't stick for like 80%, it's too risky. I'm pretty happy with using glue though, never had problems there, had lots of succesful prints in the past just using a paperglue stick.

  3. If only the first layer is the problem then the problem is not the plastic. Try heating the nozzle to 260 and the bed to 90, then when its at temp, quickly go to the menu and move material to make sure there are no gaps in the nozzle, and goto press print menu. the printer should already be drippping PLA due to the heat if not then its still blocked. with everything at heat and the material just been pushed through you should be good to go. worked for me just now. make sure your nozzle is very close to the glass but not touching.

    Just to let you know my best temp for successful pulls is around the 85C mark. i find if it goes down to 70 its too cold and 90 is too drippy still. and my glass bed is most certainly not level and i think i may have even slightly bent my bars when i was first doing atomic pulls, but it still makes a perfect base.

    could be the glue your using also. i have very good luck with an ultra thin layer of pritt stik power. (not the regular one)

    How did you bent your bars when doing the atomic method? Just to know how to prevent it in the furture.

  4. I had this problem tons before, but just make sure your bed is level as people have been saying and its better to haev teh nozzle closer than further, and for 35mm/s 0.06mm layer height i have the first few layers at 210 before i turn it durn to 205 for the rest.

    What you might want to try is the atomic nozzle check with white, so you can really see if youve cleaned the nozzle as it might seem clear from the shape but is still dirty. In my experience when you use colourd filament to atomic pull you cant always see the tiny bits that show up easily on white.

    20150426_145409.thumb.jpg.c3c0b9fd35e088bdfe7df3faf94bd42d.jpg

    Also i have just started to simple cut the filament i need off the roll and balance it at the back to achieve perfect layers and less retarded clicking at the start. there are many factors, but good glue, heat and minimal resistance with the filament is the way to go.

    20150425_140758.thumb.jpg.2f7d7517bd0c9ce09ce1a7f4ec49e101.jpg

    works for me....

    I repeated the leveling like 10 times before I posted this, so I think it's safe to say it's leveled now. I also did the atomic method twice and also with white filament. Your pictures were very helpfull, as I could see that they were different from my results. I repeated the heating and cooling process over and over untill I had no dirty parts anymore but my filament wasn't as short as yours when it came out. Everytime I pulled it out (with a quick pull), I had this long thin but clean wire, I thought this was normal though.

    I'm starting to think the problem is the material. It's a cheap chinese product. I tested today with some original Ultimaker-filament and noticed the noises were gone. I think the diameter is too big, I don't know.

  5. Also check the filament it's no bigger than 3mm. Um2 uses 2.85mm and anything bigger than 3 will have resistence going the bowden

    Yes I checked it already, it's not bigger than 3, but it is however bigger than 2.85. Also the website of the filament I'm using says the best temperature to print is 200°C, so I'm already above it but I will try 230°C.

  6. Hello everyone, I'm new here so I don't really know if this is the correct place to put this issue but I'll just try.

    I just want to start with saying I already searched this forum for similar problems like mine but I'm just not that technical and don't know every correct term used to describe the printerparts, meaning I'm never sure if another ones problem is related to mine.

    My issue:

    Recently my printer (Ultimaker²) makes these weird noises when it's printing the first layer. The noises are comming from the feeder wheel (or is it also called extruder, maybe stepper motor, driver? :p).

    Every time I hear the noise, which is a short knocking sound, I see the wheel turning back. I'm not sure if this is related but when I watch my print at the same time while it turned back, I notice the print is messed up at that part, I mean there is no filament, no infill, a 'missing line'.

    But when the first layer is done and the fans start to work everything is normal again. It prints perfectly and the noises are gone. The toplayer is always perfect too by the way.

    My stats:

    Layer height: 0.1mm

    Shell thickness: 0.8mm

    Bottom/top Thickness: 0.6mm

    Fill Density: 20%

    Print Speed: 50mm/s

    Nozzle Size: 0.4

    Initial Layer Thickness: 0.3mm

    Buildplate temperature: 60°C

    Head Temperature: 210°C

    Printed with PLA (3mm +/- 0.1mm)

    Thank you in advance.

    Maybe I will try to add some photos later on, the print is still busy while I'm writing this.

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