philippe44

I did install 7.1.0 and I'll update the log

Just to check, I've replaced the BB core by an AA and printed the same part with same support but using that other AA core with PLA. The idea is to make sure there is no issue with the feeder. So far it has been printing with no problem.

Hi - I did a few prints using PVA on my S3 and they worked fairly well. I have been away for a few months and now I'm trying to print a large object with a fair bit of support (more than previously) and all attempts failed. After a few hours, prints pause because the S3 thinks there is no more filament in BB core. Indeed, the PVA extrusion begins well and after a while, it starts to under-extrude to a point that nothing comes out. Removing filament shows signs of grinding, but not awful though. I don't think it's the flow sensor being faulty otherwise flow would not stop. I've tried various adjustments in the feeder tension, no change. The PVA is a *new* roll that was sealed with desiccant and I've even tried to cure that roll with a special heating system and full of desiccant, no change. I've cleaned the bowden tube and the core multiple times and the hot & cold pull come back clean so I'm running out if ideas and getting frustrated to see my 12 hours print failing after 2-3 hours all the time. Could not find anything Googl'ing so here I am on the forum : Any further hints?

I decided to run some more systematic tests to tell the buyer of my UM2° what to expected. One interesting thing I missed (...) is that I have a clear different between left and right side of the bed. I've printed a simple square on 20*10*1.5, duplicated 2 cm away from borders and it sticks on the left and lifts like crazy on the right. The bottom layer is well flatten on the left and stays round on the right. I know (I know) it sounds like bed leveling, but I can guarantee that I've leveled it 10 times and it's consistent right and left. I have turned the glassbed upside down, same result. Another (less surprising) thing is that adhesion is better at 0.2 mm thickness and is a disaster at 0.1. I assume it's because upper layer pull more at 0.1. Any idea why I have this dissymmetry?

@geert_2: I will try again the salt method. I've tried on the UM2+ and did not get an improvment, but I'll certainly give it another run on this UMS3. I can't remember if you have a recommandation for dosage?

Thanks but no I did not b/c I wanted to keep the shiny 1st layer and I never had that issue with my UM2+ (including using tough PLA) in 5 years.

Hi - After many issue wrt adhesion with my UM2+ ( ), I really decided that I had enough and broke the bank to buy an S3. I did a first large print and the result is interesting... once it was fully cold (a few hours to cool down) the print did not popup easily from the bed so I removed the bed to try out of the printer and when turning it upside down, it looks like the print sticks so well that, even before I tried to remove it (I really did not exercise strong force), some thin layers of glass were already detached and pulled by the print (chipping?), from the bed. Putting the whole thing in the cold allowed the print to separate from the bed but confirmed that thin layers of glass went with it. I've heard & read about that but never experienced it before (I'm not super-expert in printing, but I've been using my printers very regularly over the past 5 years) Again, I did nothing special, it's just a large print at 0.15 with tough PLA, new reel. I did not pull strongly on the print and I saw immediately from the bottom side of the bed that glass was peeling off. So I moved from no adhesion with 2+ to too much adhesion breaking the bed with S3 (sigh) On the positive side, now that I've cleaned everything and removed PVA support layer, the quality of the print, even at 0.15 is *amazing*

So... that's it. I'm giving up on my UM2+, it is too frustrating. It will be for sale tomorrow (a good deal out of anger 😁). I spent hours on a new design and adhesion is randomly at best. On my FFCPRO, the quality of the print is far less, but the surface is totally flat. I want to do designs and print them, not to spend hours messing with the printer itself (I understand that sometimes the fun can be in fiddling around with the device, that what I tend to do with my telescopes, but not here). We had a few good years with this UM2+, but it's over now. Sorry for just venting, but you know what it is when you wake up and see that a 16 hours job is messed up after 6 hours of printing.

Thanks very much for your long and detailed answer. I've eliminated end of spool, nozzle, leveling, teflon coupler, position on the bed. With regard to bounding method, I used to just print on glass when it was working fine. On rare case, I added hair lacquer. To clean glass, I use 99% alcohol then soap water and checked with a finger that it is dry & non-oily. I will look at the salt method, thanks a lot!

Hi @Torgeir - I agree with doing incremental changes so that you can draw a proper correlation and this is what I did. I was just giving the summary of all cumulated changes. BTW, the "missed steps" is not my biggest concern for now as it does not happen very often, the corner lift is really what I'm trying to solve as it is really ruining prints. I can do a raft but this does not give the same finish and it was not needed a couple of month ago, so I really want to understand why. I do like my UM2+ but I had mixed experience with it. I bought it as a UM2 and it worked fine for a while then it started to under-extrude and for the life of me I never figure out why. I've tried every feeder mod, filament guide tool and other things till the 2+ kit came around. With that kit, it went back to perfect printing for a long while and then it derailed again. I also have a FlashForge Creator Pro2 and what is "sad" is that the UM2+, when it prints, has a *much* better quality than the FFCP2 but the FFCP2 has been *very* consistent in printing results where my UM2/2+ has been *very* temperamental, so it's frustrating.

Thx - I've re-secured the pulley and will see - one was a bit (not much) loose. Re corner lift, I don't know what to do anymore. I've put a brand new reel of PLA, replaced the teflon insulator (was a bit damaged at the hot end), the nozzle and, as said before, put the spare motor feeder I had. No change and, for example, if I print 5 spread copies of an item that is the size of a SDcard holder, the lift is about 0.5 to 1mm on each angle of each copy. The first layer also seems to be well flat and shiny, as before, so "sausage" effect. It seems to point out to a bed issue, but I've verified T°, it's even and as requested. Looks like my well-behaved UM2+ is reaching some sort of end.

Thanks both of you for your answers. SO far I've changed the bed to 55° and it a bit better, but I think you're right, there is likely some under extrusion, now I need to figure out why (bring back bad memory from my UM2)... I've just checked feeder and even replaced the motor with a spare that I had for a while (original 2+ issue with sliding gear that I glued, now it's a motor with a notch on the axis), so new gear & motor, same result, I need to look elsewhere. Meanwhile, another question: from time to time my print seems to miss badly X position after a couple of layers and give that. You can see that after the 1st (or a few layers, the whole print is offset alongside the X axis. Have you ever seen this?

Hi - I have an UM2, upgraded to 2+. The original version caused me some issues with the feeder but since the 2+ upgrade, it worked perfectly. Then, a few weeks ago, it started to do corner lift on all my prints. I've checked bed T° and leveling multiple times, used different material, no luck. It does not look like there is under-extrusion. I've re-read different advices here and there, but could not find anything that would fix the issue. I've added a couple of picture (there is another issue with last layers, but please ignore it) in case somebody here can provide better wisdom

Answering my question - was the issue of problematic network drives. Don't know how I have missed that 😳

I posted about this previously but my title was really not clear (I don't like to multipost but hope it's okay for once). Cura 4.7, that I've been using for a while suddenly would take 20-40 to load and then be unusable. It started after I installed Teams on my computer (I also installed have a few other apps that day, so I can only go back to the daily image as a whole). I've seen some related posts here and there but no solution worked. I tried to install 4.8 but no luck. I assume that some .Net or Visual libraries installed broke something, but I can figure out why. Does it ring a bell? Any hint? It's Win7 x64. Thank you

I should add that after ~15 mins, Cura appears. Loading an objects takes another 10 minutes. Then I can rotate view till I modify something in which case it goes for another 10 minutes

Cura 4.7 was working fine on a Win7 x64. Then, suddenly it does not start (display any window) any more. It's here, consumes about 52MB on memory and sits idle for ever, nothing visible. I've tried to update it to 4.8, no change. All I can do is relate that to install MSFT Teams that has probably added some extra VC++ or .Net components. If I move back to an image before that, it works normally, but the failure really seems to be connected the installation of Teams (I've installed a few other apps the same day, so difficult to corner the exact one). It's pretty frustrating as *everything* else works normally. Anybody has heard about something similar?

Thanks for the feedback. I'm currently printing with the glued gear. Cross finger, so far so good after a couple of hours

I've received the answer from my reseller. He is willing to help but does not seem to be aware of a better part. "We've seen a few of these issues. In the short term it's possible to put a little bit of super glue and then tap it with a hammer so it is flush with the axel to get your printer running. I'll see if we have some extra motors with gears around for warranty." Currently, I'm running a test with the gear super glued ...

Thank you - I've contacted my reseller now and I will see. Again, sorry for venting it's just that I've invested so much time in my UM2 then UM2+ upgrade that when I saw again a massive feeder motor + under-extrusion problem, I blew a fuse

Here is an example, but interestingly enough, the gear can go forward or backward. I also saw that somebody did a longer gear, but I only print PLA and I expect that it will not be strong/hard enough

Thanks for answering guys. Unfortunately, there is no screw to hold the gear on the axis. So once I resisted to hit my UM2(+) with a hammer and calmed down, I tried to superglue the gear on the motor axis - I hope it will work, but if not, I might really (really) get rid of it. And it's unfortunate because I think it's a very good printer ... when it works.

I usually don't write such post, but my level of frustration with my UM2 (upgraded to 2+) has gone beyond a reasonable level. The UM2 was my first 3D printer in early 2014. I was new to 3D printing, but I'm a 25+ years of experience engineer. On top of doing that for a living, at home I do SW development, my own HW design, PCB, CAD etc ... just to say that although I do a lot of mistakes, engineering is my daily activity. The UM2 worked very well for a couple of month, and then it started to be an under-extrusion nightmare. I already posted here and I tried a lot of fixes: ended replacing the hotend, teflon tube, printing a few feeders and many other accessories, tried UM and other filament, all sort of T°. But the result was 70-80% failed prints, no matter what, unless I would do 0.1mm vert slow prints. I upgraded not so long ago with the UM2+ kit. Went reasonably well (had to tinker a bit with the X home switch) and then I was back to good quality prints. Recently, issues started again by filament not unloading. The feeder motor was running, but not the feeder, and it was not a problem of grinded material. I pulled the material manually and insterted a new one that was only loaded half way. Removing the feeder, I saw that the gear on the motor had went almost off the axis hence the motor was running, but not the feeder. Strange. I pulled the gear back and started again. 1 successful print then, same thing started again. This time, I put a tiny slice of PLA between the gear and the flat part of axis and pushed it back real strong. Same thing happended again. So, I'll stop there because I've now decided to ditch the UM2+. I have another printer which is far from being as good as the UM in term of print quality, but at least, once you know what to do, this other printer is reliable. You understand its weakness and when you're careful with these, it *prints*. The UM seems to fail randomly and defies logic in term of what cause creates which effect. That, as an engineer, drives me mad. Sorry for venting :-(

Did you update the firmware? Yes I did (otherwise the feeder turns in the wrong direction)

After almost a year of infuriating under-extrusion with my UM2 and trying everything (new head, teflon insulator, bowden tube, feeder and many other mods) I upgraded it with the 2+ kit. The mechanical work is not as smooth as described on the video :-) (my motherboard wiring was different) but I was able to get it done properly ... then when I switched the printer back on, the head crashed against the enclosure when homing. I switched it off immediately and dismounted again the motherboard cache to check for unconnected X/Y homing wires ... to finally discover that the new head dimension was different enough so that the fan hit the enclosure before the switch of the X axis could be actionned ... it was very infuriating that I had to heavily bend the small metal piece of the switch. I really think the UM could have made a bit fat warning about that ! So well, other than that, printings are now excellent, under-extrusion is gone !