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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Could be a loose pulley on a motor/shaft! I put marks on mine with a permanent marker, a stripe that goes from shaft to the pulley. A quick look will show if anything moved. // Per.
  2. Hey. I wanted to have a go at the new 2.5 release of Cura with my Ultimaker Original (DIY heated bed), so i downloaded, installed with no problems. Opened 2.5 and to my pleasant surprise it imported my old profiles from 2.3.1 so no need to redo these. Sliced a model and saw that the start.gcode has some how changed since it now does it's priming of the nozzle, homes the z-axis and drags the head horizontally along the build plate to the start location, and does not have this nice point-to-point linear move in space as i am so used to. This drags the "booger" along and empties the nozzle of plastic so a good part of the skirt is not printed. This is no good. I then open Cura 2.3.1 to look at my old start.gcode to do a comparison, and then i see that all profiles are gone (it prompts me to add a new printer) Opening / closing apps a few times does not seem to do anything useful. In the end i restored the /Users/Username/Library/Application Support/Cura folder from my Time machine backup from before i installed 2.5 and got my profiles back. Once again, after opening 2.5, the profiles are gone from 2.3.1. Isn't there any way of having 2.3.1 and 2.5 living happily alongside each other? I have always been using 2.3.1 alongside 15.04.6 which has never been a problem (15.04.6 still works fine btw.) Any resolution to this? And as a side note, any ideas on what happened to the start.gcode? If i look at the old and new, it seems to do the same, more or less. // Per.
  3. I do not agree with Torgeir. There is no "slow voltage rising" on the DC-side of the switchmode power supply that will harm your Ultimaker. If that was the case, thousands of appliances, laptops etc. would blow up daily. You can safely leave the DC-switch in the on-position. // Per.
  4. Yeah but the thing that bugs me is that the source file IS released. It's just in a stupid closed format that only owners of the expensive Altium-software can open ...
  5. They are there for expansion mods. The pins being marked as Analog means that they are digital in nature, but can be analog as well (only some pins on the micro (Atmega2560) can do this)
  6. Hi. The PDF schematic for the 2.1.1 Ultimainboard is available on your Github, but not for the 2.1.4. Schematic available for the 2.1.1-board and not available for the 2.1.4 Please make the complete schematic, boardview etc. available for the 2.1.4 variant. I tried installing an Altium viewer to see the files, but never got it to work. It's not very "open source" without the files easy available to view. Please fix this ASAP. Thank you. // Per.
  7. Hi. I'm working on building a UM2Go-clone. I have some steppers left over from a earlier 3D-printer-project, but they have a 48mm long body. I have measured the parts of the UM2Go, and for the motors to fit under the covers, they can be no longer than 38.8mm long. Can anybody recommend a shop in Europe that has the correct steppers for this project? I have found a lot of places with short stepper motors, but they are all low current (low torque) models, not usable in a high-speed printer like the Ultimaker-range. I looked on Ultimaker's website for replacement steppers, but found none. // Per.
  8. If you are printing over USB this will be true: As long as the "print" window is open, Cura will not generate a new gcode, so close the windows and re-open and it will work. Apparently, when opening the window, the current gcode is buffered there.
  9. Hi. A happy UMO-owner here I'd like to build my own, customised Ultimaker 2 go-clone with a lot of inspiration from it. As far as i can see, all mechanical parts on it is identical to the ones on the 'Ultimaker 2' and 'Ultimaker 2 Extended' but i need the measurements on the case. Will these drawings be made available at some point? I have looked on github and i can only find the drawings/source files for the 'Ultimaker 2' // Per.
  10. I know this is a real old thread, but i just wanted to note this: The SSR in question (the one in the pictures) is a cheap knock off (counterfeit) model. There is NO way in hell that it can support the 25A rating. The power transistor inside is not even in the vicinity of the bottom heatsink, so there is no way for the heat to escape. Useless crap!
  11. Yes and Yes. You will need to modify the pinout to suit. Apart from that, it will work just fine. If you are planinning to use the genuine Ulticontroller, you will need to make some changes to the wires here, as it's a smidgen different than the Reprap-controllers.
  12. If you look at the schematics, you will find that the pin that the RepRap-panel uses for the kill-pin is defined as a 3.3V supply voltage on the UltiController. The 3.3V supply is used to power the SD-card and level-shifter IC. To make stuff works, uncomment the killpin in your pins_RAMPS-file, and solder a wire from the 3.3V-pin on the Arduino to this pin. This will supply the UltiController with 3.3V for the SD-card and remove the kill-funktion.
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