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  1. I've had decent results with Novamid ID1030 CF. This demonstration piece takes about 7 hours and is good quality. I've printed five or six times in this material. Three have been successful. One had some stringing when I printed two items side by side. One had problems with the final 10% of the print when the material failed to flow properly. One went beserk, with the print slipping while I was away for a while. It could have been because I was trying a print at fine settings (.1mm) and I sense the print surface is a bit abrasive, so maybe the nozzle caught on that. I'm tending to heat the material in advance. I'm not using any out of the ordinary adhesives. I haven't had warping on the print bed.
  2. Geert_2: I started printing in NGEN and got some nice clean results. However, I just tried a 24 hour print of a good test design - the Platform Jack - and printed slowly play safe. It printed without problem until about hour 22 when it slipped on the print bed. On checking, the base of the print had warped badly. Photo is attached. The print is upside down. The warped face was on the print bed. Any thoughts? I set the design up using setting taken from the Colorfabb website. I've only just realised that Eastman's template for Amphora AM3300 could well be more precise. Does NGEN have a reputation fo r warping during printing?
  3. .....and it would be good to be using a bioplastic.
  4. I do a lot of demonstrations in schools and trade fairs, so I have printed a serious range of models - from toys to engineering products - which I can use to engage people in discussions about the potential of 3D printing. I have primarily printed in PLA, being attracted by its surface finish and wide range of colours. However, in the recent hot spell here in the UK, I've had some quite important prints warp where there are relatively thin elements to the design. Clearly, some PLA prints cannot withstand the heat when left for an afternoon in the interior of a car during a reasonably hot British summer day. What filament should I move on to, since I want to avoid having this happen again? I need something which is as robust as PLA, but which won't suddenly warp on me in this way. Having a good variety of colours available is important - as would be surface finish.
  5. The following article by Benjamin Goldschmidt answers all my questions. It analyses the different infill patterns on offer by what kinds of performance is required. It advises on the patterns for printing fast for hobbyists purposes, for strength and for flexibility. The analysis is very clear. The Cura team could well add the gist of this analysis to the Cura package so that users, when selecting infill designs, can get a sense of the various performance characteristics. https://all3dp.com/2/cura-infill-patterns-all-you-need-to-know/
  6. I've had this advice from 3DGBIRE Heating the nozzles up to 260 and leaving for around 5-10 minutes should soften the material around the nozzles allowing for easy removal. Once removed the initial blob, using a brass wire brush on the printcores can help clean these up and allow removal from the printhead for further cleaning using the wire brush. Using a soldering iron on low heat can also assist with this if the material is around the wires on the printcores. Avoid using the heat gun as this will put heat on components that are sensitive to heat
  7. Looks very interesting. It would still be interesting to know the pros and cons of using the other infill options. You mention that Gyroid has "other nice properties" ...... such as? Do any of the other infill options outperform Gyroid in specific areas which might be important for specific purposes?
  8. I've just had the same problem. It was an overnight print. Something slipped on the plate,with the result that I have this badly bunged up print core. I had this happen once before, some six months back, and that involved nylon so all I could do was get it repaired by Ultimaker/3DGBIRE. This time around, the blockage is PLA. I did a bit of work with a heat gun, and started to be able to strip away bits on the congealed mess. Clearly, it will take hours to clear the major blob, but is it worth it because, the closer I get to the actual print core, surely my heat gun will be damaging the electronics and producing subtle distortions. Has anyone successfully cleaned up one of these messes? If so, how did you do it?
  9. I collaborated with an Exeter University researcher who ran tensile tests on 15 variants of the same design. There was clear evidence that the tetrahedral pattern was seriously stronger than the grid pattern. So I remain interested in the extent to which the Ultimaker design team have evidence about the relative performance of the varied infill patterns
  10. Thanks GR5. What you say about retraction intensity and print core reliability is very interesting. I'll do some thinking and checking.
  11. Every so often I have a long print fail because the drivers at the back of my UM3s stop feeding the filament through - instead they just eat into the filament so that all forward movement stops. This has just happened to me about 75% of the way through a 2 day print. This was despite the fact that I had been checking every couple of hours that the filament was hanging loosely on the spools at the back. I put prints on hold over night, and that was not an issue. There was no sign of a filament tangle. Since I didn't spot that something was going wrong until several hours after the breakdown (breakaway scaffolding was still printing happily), I can't totally guarantee that the PLA reel had not been offering too much resistance at the point of the failure. I have a sense that having two spools running simultaneously at the back of UM3s causes problems because (i) there's a fair amount of resistance as the spools rotate and (ii) the far spool is being pulled forward as well as rotated. So, if I want to improve the reliability of long prints, will I need to think about one of those systems whereby the filament is fed upwards from below? If so, what is the most cost effective recommendation>
  12. Just for information, using my UM3, I've had decent results for Bronzefill and Copperfill, using fairly simple 90 minute designs. I used the PLA defaults with slight tweaks. Brassfill was unfriendly. I almost had to use a hammer to get the print off the printbase. In the course of doing this, the print fractured in several places.Then the unused filament refused to unload itself, and snapped when I used pliers to try pulling it out of the Bowden tube, so I was left with a totally blocked tube. To be fair to Colorfabb, they do indicate that Brassfill is a work in progress, which has particular problems with the wider Ultimaker filament standards.
  13. I've got test lengths of Colorfabb's ###fill series - bronze, copper, steel, wood, cork, brass and glow. I know thay some of these are very tricky to print with, but I just want to print out small test items to allow clients to get a sense of what the different surface finishes are like. I could print on either a UM2 or UM3. I have found the basic print settings which are advised for each of these. Cura doesn't seem to offer specific profiles for these filaments, but do these exist in a form which could be imported into Cura? If not, what's the best way forward? Currently, I.m thinking of creating individual material profiles for each filament within Preferences, then using Print Setup to create profiles with more subtle settings such as print flow rates. Does that make sense? Or am I missing something in Cura where all this can be setup more simply? Finally, if I go with my UM3, I will be very careful to keep the printcore clean. Do any of you have any wider advice based on experience of printing with these filaments?
  14. Using Cura 3.4.1 I seem to have lost the ability to show quite a number of items in preferencies. Specifically, I want to be more precise on Retraction distances but, in the information in Configure/Preferences I am told that it can't be shown because of the vlues in my G-Code Flavor. I am asked to change values in this flavour, but I can't find any sign of where I do this. The reason I'm asking is that I seem to be stuck with a Retraction default of 4.5 mm on my UM2 which seems to be producing some unwanted stringing. I want to experiment with some different retraction differences.
  15. I've now had a bad experience with Breakaway supporting a relatively delicate structure. The item below was printed in Polycarbonate, but had relatively thin walls. I was probably too cautious and printed this with scaffolding both inside and outside the structure. As a result the final print was pretty well enclosed with Breakaway. I left if for a week before I started the clean up, which may have allowed the Breakaway to harden more than if I had tried this right after printing. On the right below, you will see the damage I did as I tore Breakaway off the print. if you compare the picture on the right with the picture on the left, where I was more successful, you can see how the dividing columns between the circular openings got broken away. What you also don't see from these pictures is that the structure ultimately sheared horizontally along a mid line, as a result of some of the force I had to use. Towards the last third of this tidy-up I was starting to refine my techniques, and could probably have reduced the damage I did. However, this has just convinced me that soluble PVA may still have its uses when I need to support relatively fragile structures.
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